Wanting to Confirm/Bust the HAI

[red91sit]

Originally Posted by DRW

Thanks for the peek inside a Honda ecu, red91sit. The temperature compensation seems similar to the map used in the Mitsubishi ecu in my car.

The Mitsu ecu shows the temperature compensation extrapolates between values. For example, if the fuel adjustment map uses 1.06 at 39.6 degrees, and 1.00 at 70 degrees, the ecu would extrapolate a correction factor of 1.03 at 55 degrees. There wouldn't be any steps or switchpoints.

I'm assuming the Honda ecu would work the same way.
I'd also assume the temp comp map matches the adjustment needed to keep the fuel trims near 100% as temp changes, since air density changes with temp. It would help the ecu keep track of the actual ammount of air flowing into the engine so it didn't have to rely on fuel trims to take up the difference.

Yes, honda also extrapolates for all of their maps. My source of htis information is a stock Honda Bin from a 1997 Integra. I use "Chrome" to explore these, and to tune my Turbocharged B-16a2 coupe

rh77

The difference between AIT adjustments for high load and low load is minnimal, really not worth spending more time looking into. I'm much more interested in getting warm air to the intake in winter. Warming up the car as fast as possible is also highly desireable.

[JanGeo]

Actually you want colder air at high loads so you don't get knocking and you would get this if you had a limited heating intake that would warm air traveling through it less if moving quickly and heat it more if the air was moving slowly.

[rh77]

Originally Posted by JanGeo

Actually you want colder air at high loads so you don't get knocking and you would get this if you had a limited heating intake that would warm air traveling through it less if moving quickly and heat it more if the air was moving slowly.

I have an Engine Block Heater, but no where to plug in when I park at the airport. Currently, the air is being draw from the engine compartment. When it gets super-cold, I may have to implement the HAI/WAI to keep the temps stable.

RH77

[JanGeo]

I got an idea - maybe you should start the engine up to warm it up . . . no wait that's how it is supposed to work. You need a source of energy . . . park in the sun with a solar heater tank inside the car and use the heated coolant to preheat the engine air and engine for that matter. I always thought taking the air from inside the car cabin would be good for forced air flow then I realized how much air the engine takes . . . could suck the roof in if you didn't have a window open or suck exhost back into the car too.

Anyone think about insulating the entire engine since the radiator cools most of the engine if it was closed up and insulated really well it would stay warmer a lot longer.

[rh77]

Originally Posted by JanGeo

I got an idea - maybe you should start the engine up to warm it up . . . no wait that's how it is supposed to work. You need a source of energy . . . park in the sun with a solar heater tank inside the car and use the heated coolant to preheat the engine air and engine for that matter. I always thought taking the air from inside the car cabin would be good for forced air flow then I realized how much air the engine takes . . . could suck the roof in if you didn't have a window open or suck exhost back into the car too.

Anyone think about insulating the entire engine since the radiator cools most of the engine if it was closed up and insulated really well it would stay warmer a lot longer.

A while back, we ran over a similar scenario where solar panels could heat be used to heat the engine compartment, but it would take too many amps. At 20F, I'm not sure if a solar tank could help.

We even considered having a portable generator that could be attached to a cell-phone for "remote start" to heat-up the car. Weight, fuel, and cost-benefit considerations negated that as well.

The solution has to be the sun. It's out there all day and can generate some form of heat, right?

[red91sit]

Originally Posted by rh77

A while back, we ran over a similar scenario where solar panels could heat be used to heat the engine compartment, but it would take too many amps. At 20F, I'm not sure if a solar tank could help.

We even considered having a portable generator that could be attached to a cell-phone for "remote start" to heat-up the car. Weight, fuel, and cost-benefit considerations negated that as well.

The solution has to be the sun. It's out there all day and can generate some form of heat, right?

Wouldn't it be far simpler to partially seal off the engine compartment? Radiator block helps a bit, but blocking up the bottom would do wonders i would imagine. The hood is usually sealed on cars, so why not work on blocking up the bottom as well?

I'm not to concerned about warming the vehicle up with my exhuast energy recapturing device :P

[red91sit]

kind of off topic, but what about solar panels to power an electric heater to warm the inside of the car? plug it in in the morning, go to work, park in the sun, drive home?

[cfg83]

red91sit -

Originally Posted by red91sit

kind of off topic, but what about solar panels to power an electric heater to warm the inside of the car? plug it in in the morning, go to work, park in the sun, drive home?

Even more off topic ... I have an old flexible Uni-Solar panel (USF-11 I think, 10 Watts, 16"*21" sqin) and a small "car battery" charger solar panel (6"*12" sqin). I am going to ask my Dad to make interface circuitry that mimics the car battery charger so that the Uni-Solar panel will be able to act like a big battery charger. He would know how to do this. It would be perfect in the rear back window or attached to the car roof during the day. That might give me a "re-charge option" if I were to try something that would risk my battery charge.

CarloSW2

[rh77]

I used the cardboard rad block last Winter also -- it worked well. The problem with the 'Teg is that it really needs warmth to kick-in the TC. I was having problems (actually, it was around 50F here today and it took forever for it to kick-in).

My car's underside tray directs air up and into the rad area to cool it, so while the block helped, an additional grille block and partial tray may suit a dual purpose.

RH77

[Bill in Houston]

Interesting stuff. I hope it works well for you. You could route the windshield squirter onto the sponge and fill the tank with plain water. But then, you wouldn't have it for the windshield... Hmm...