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Old 12-12-2007, 02:54 AM   #21
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I may want to preheat my water, but not so much that it makes steam. The goal is to create the steam inside the combustion chamber -- that generates power. The same applies to your bubbler. You want to entrain mist droplets, NOT suck in steam.
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Old 12-12-2007, 05:47 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by lunarhighway View Post
just hook the pump up to a swithch and place a nozzle in the carb?

as for reducing the flow, i'd take the same approach as with fuel. there's a small reservoir with an a duct routing exess fuel back to the fueltank
Yeah, I have a rear sprayer that I don't use that much, and I would just unhook the line from that, and stick a nozzle in the intake tract.

I don't follow you on the reducing flow. Can you explain it a little better (dumber)?
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Old 12-12-2007, 08:05 AM   #23
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well as far as i understand it on my car the fuelpump is on the engine, as opposed to in the fueltank on most current cars...but i doubt that's important...anyway it pumps the fuel from the fueltank into a small reservoir from where it either flows trough to the carb, or, when the engine is not so thirsty, back to the fueltank. this way the pump can be set to provide more than plenty and doesn't have to be specifficly tuned and the engine just takes what it needs

maybe i'm on the wrong track here.... but in essence the water injection setup can be pretty colse to the fuel setup... afterall you're mixing a liquid and air
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Old 12-12-2007, 11:04 AM   #24
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Lunarhighway- the fuel pump return system works using a spring loaded valve- once the output pressure gets too high (typically 3 to 7 pounds per square inch for a carb), the excess fuel pressure is "vented" back to the tank.

I think it would be difficult to find a tiny spring loaded valve to use to regulate the water injection system. I think a small adjustable valve might be a better way to regulate the flow to the carb.
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Old 12-12-2007, 10:23 PM   #25
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the pump I have from a toyota starlet I got about 650cc/min flow. I was told 50-80 cc/min was the best suggestion.
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Old 12-13-2007, 07:05 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Dunlop View Post
I may want to preheat my water, but not so much that it makes steam. The goal is to create the steam inside the combustion chamber -- that generates power. The same applies to your bubbler. You want to entrain mist droplets, NOT suck in steam.
I think steam IS what you want. I read of someone claiming an mpg gain from it. Water cools the combustion process too much...while steam might act like EGR gas and lean things out some. Some also believe that water (steam) can be disassociated during combustion....H and O resulting.

You could simply wrap some copper tubing around your exhaust several times...put a water valve before this and draw distilled water (steam) into the manifold. This "steam" will revert to VERY FINE droplets at some point...such as the white "steam" you see coming from a tea kettle? Actual steam is clear.

Easier said than done?
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Old 12-13-2007, 08:30 AM   #27
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i think that's what my dad tried to do somewhere in the early 70 or so... problem was he couldn't get the water to actually boil by useing engine exhust heat, and given the current weather i doubt i could either right now although it seems a very efficient method of mixing water and air.
i thought about useing an electric heater, like a 12 v water cooker that you can hang in a cup, but that seems rather silly since there's already so much drag caused by cooling things down, and i doubt it would be safe.

tapping directly or indirectly into the engine coolant might be workable.... what if i put a bit of metal tube in line with the water hose that goes to the radiator and bring another metal tube in contact with it... maybe a bigger diameter tube that completely encloses the first and is sealed of at both ends, or a smaller one that warps around it... this would be fed from a big water reservoir and than routed to the carb... would be a little difficult to make it all water tight though, but it shouln't be rocket science either...

the downside is it only works when the engine is warmed up propperly. on the other hand it would recycle waste energy...
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Old 12-13-2007, 03:10 PM   #28
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Saw a pic of copper tubing wrapped around the exhaust under a heat stove...he had quite a few wraps on the manifold.

I once used tubing around the top rad hose to heat water before going to the manifold...can't say any change though...vs unheated.

My experience might not be your experience.


Might have to mess with ignit timing (?)...advance it? I'd always use some lube in the gas though.
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Old 12-13-2007, 07:26 PM   #29
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Thanks for the input.
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Old 12-18-2007, 05:26 PM   #30
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I got my aquarium check valve and on/off switch for the water stuff. Plan on using the plastic on/off to regulate the flow, and the check valve to keep the water from draining back. I think that I will start off using the rear windshield wiper sprayer line and go from there.
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