Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy oil rebate.
 

Ten bucks off your 5 qt. purchase of 0W-20 or 0W-30 AFE syn oil.

Most US Wally World stores sell 5qt containers of M1 for $22.

AutoZone currently has an 'Oil Change Special' offering 5 qt oil and an M1 filter (much better than the standard Fram garbage) for 29.99.

Subtract the $10 and you've got a pretty decent deal.


Typical "save the Earth" propaganda. :rolleyes:
https://drivesmarterchallenge.org/default.aspx

Here's the mail-in form:
https://drivesmarterchallenge.org/res...ate_vFinal.pdf


I'm not convinced that 0W-30 will save much over the 10W-30 I usually run, but I might give it a try at my next change, due in a few months.

FWIW!

Very interesting. I normally run 0w40, but everyone around here stopped selling it. $16 (oil + filter) for an oil change is better than the $33 I normally spend...

BTW, I thought M1 filters were by Fram?

Champ Labs makes the M1 (K&N too) filters using their 'Performance' design. Champ also makes 'ecore' filter line for resale under several brand names. These seem to be 'ok' at best.

Fram is by Honeywell. IMO, their 'Xtended Guard' looks pretty solid. The low end (Orange Can of Death) lineup scares me! :eek:

https://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/index.html
https://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oil...reference.html

Thanks for the reading material.

Champion Labs also makes Supertech filters.

I've used the Mobil 1 AFE. I liked it, you could tell on cold winter mornings that the car ran better than it did with normal 10w-30 M1. Other than that I don't know if I noticed a difference. The only reason I got it is because it was $22 a jug. Now, though, they don't sell the 0w-30 in the stores here, just 0w-20. No idea why.

I'm not convinced that I saved a single drop of gas using 0W30 instead of 5W30 in my VW, nor did I expect to...but I figured I'd try it anyway. I've been running 0W30 for 12000 miles now.

Yea, at lower RPMs the drag reduction is quite marginal.
With a 5 speed I don't break 3.5K more than a few times a week, when I need to merge in a hurry.

Also remember, the benefit of 0w-30 over 5 or even 10w-30 is only when it is cold. In the summers you may never get cool enough for it to have any benefit. If your car warms up quickly your gains can be negligible even in winter.

Thanks for the post!

NAPA still sells it here in central fla.

Pretty good stuff a year later.

Yeah, I just got a Mobil1 0w30 oil change in The Beast just the other day. Its still available here in the DC area. It may not be giving me any measurable gains in economy over Mobil1 5w30, but it doesn't cost me anything extra, so why not.

i didn't see the need to start a new thread...

NAPA has a $15 rebate on their adaptive 1 brake pads(hybrid ceramic) right now. i HIGHLY recommend them as both of my cars have had them for more than 2 years and the rotors still look brand new.

also they have NGK platinum spark plugs on sale for $2.49. the going rate that i've seen is 2.99. www.napaonline.com

This is "vanilla" M 1,The EP is more advanced. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SfMHOkZYt2Q

[yt]SfMHOkZYt2Q[/yt]

I switched over to 0w-30 on my dodge stratus(1999 2.4L) gradually after I had purchased it used with 90,000 miles or so. I did the SeaFoam in the crankcase and used MaxLife 5w-30 for two or three oil changes, treating my last 100-150 miles with the crankcase applicaition of SeaFoam.

Once I switched over to Mobil 1 0w-30 my MPG went up by about 1-2 over the highway. I used to get 24-25ish on the highway. Then, on a road trip from ATL to Mississippi, I was getting right at 27 MPG after the complete conversion.

Probably it was just the full synthetic and the different base of oil, but other than that, I probably would pull the same MPG with regular 5w-30 Mobil 1. I do like the AFE 0w products though.

My comment is about the video-
I run Mobil 1 in my vx, and change it every 10k. It does in fact look better at 10k than any conventional oil at 3k.
However, I have two quibbles with the video; one is that they used a luxury car for the test. I would have liked to see a working man's car like the ford escort or something. It would have been more realistic.
Two- This car was not driven under normal circumstances with dust, dirt, etc. It saw no contamination of any kind to that oil throughout the test. That is far from the reality of modern cars. Every oil change the oil is full of contaminates from dust, debris, moisture, etc.

That said, I still run it happily.
B

How much dust and debris really gets into a modern engine, and how does it enter?

Well, I suppose it depends on your region. Say you live in the "dust bowl" area or the like, for instance. Inevitably some dust makes it past the air filter. Further, as a car ages, vacuum leaks develop. Such leaks allow unmetered air and feasably dirt/debris. This car never saw 15 year old rubber vacuum lines.
I suppose moisture is the concern where I live. All of those temperature changes and extremes all year round could easily allow moisture to accumulate. The engine never reaches the boiling point thus none of the moisture has an opportunity to get out in the form of vapor.
Lastly is contamination from engine gasses.
I found a good article on this topic here:
https://www.carjunky.com/news/motor_oil/mom4.shtml

My point was that the test car was not driven outside under varying conditions. It was dyno tested under controlled conditions.
B

Though I agree with the 'realism' being left out, its still one of the best synthetics on the market. At least, can be said to be better than anything petroleum based at the molecular level, since its a group IV oil PAO base; instead of a group III synthetic petro base. Then again, if you use conventional or even a synthetic like Valvoline or Pennzoil, as long as you treat your car right and change before it gets down to the bare bones in oil life...you'll be just fine. =) i.e. take care of your car! lol.

For me? I'm going to use a PAO based synthetic, if possible. Especially, not having had a car from day 1 of its use. Its hard to know without breaking down the engine and knowing for sure what is in there. Perhaps oil lab test? I'm not going to want to push for "EP", but if I need to I don't have to stress if I let it slip an extra 1k miles or so. With a conventional, its 3k a must on a car you don't know about.

I'd slide to 4k max with a conventional, if I took care of the car from its first few miles of life. No more, but that still is somewhat brave.

Good oil filter means a lot, too. Which is why if you DO an EP oil, or even push the AFE version here for a while, you could save yourself more worry by just changing the oil filter in between. Like buy 2 Napa gold's for example for the life of the oil change. Say 8-10k miles...and replace the oil filter at 5/6k or so. Since the last of the oil's life will be 'dirtier'.

One question I've always wondered.

Is it really true Mobil1 has markedly less wear protection that other oils?

I've seen reports on Amsoil's website. I know Mobil1 is good for sludge prevention, but is it leaving the engine open to more wear compared to others?

I doubt that. If that was true, there would be a lot of Mobil1 users with their engines wearing out prematurely, which would result in a bad reputation and a class-action lawsuit. I haven't heard of either result happening. In fact, Mobil1 seems to enjoy the distinction of being generally agreed as the best mainstream oil around.

I don't bother with Mobil1 because my engines never suffer any kind of failure that could have been prevented by using more expensive oil.

Have you been wearing out oil-protected engine parts?

My Buick used to eat oil pumps for breakfast before I switched to Mobil 1.

Well, it must be saying something when the Super Tech brand of oil at Wal-Mart is just re-cylced/used Mobil1, right?

EDIT: Apparently, no confirmation on this.

@ HC, No failures. Just a new Mobil1 user is all. =)

@J2TR, Good, now its eating less fiber. Engines don't need that much fiber in their diets.

I'm still thinking of using Amsoil, eventually, in the VX. Is their 0w-30 here just their version of Mobil1's AFE or is it remarkably different?

https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/sso.aspx

Do you have a link to a source for that information?

Man you guys make me feel cheap.LOL

I just use 5w-30 or 10w-30 Valvoline or NAPA's brand what ever is on sale.

But I do change my oil every 2000 miles.

Well, to be honest I thought that was the case, but apparently there is some debate after trying to research that as it appears Exxon/Mobil, perhaps QS, and/or Valvoline all have some part to play in "Super Tech" motor oils. To what extent? I don't really know. I didn't mean to get off topic, but had heard that from another poster on here and didn't think to challenge that comment since I never use the stuff.:o

ADDED:

https://wiki.answers.com/Q/Who_manufa..._synthetic_oil

Among other forum discussions like these.

Define 'cheap'. Its all relative. :D

Around $3.00 a QT.;)

If you ever got into high-performance racing leagues, I'd recommend royal purple or red line...recycled for less to fit your 'cheap' budget of course.;) :p j/k

...but seriously, I figure I just paid $4.20 per/Q when buying the Wal-Mart deal for 0w-30 Mobil1 AFE @ $21 even, 5Q jug. I purchased two, the Stratus takes 5Q even and the Honda 3.5Q w/ Filter. That seems to be the cheapest it falls to lately and didn't want to wait to pay an extra $1.50 or so later when I needed to drain the VX.

I use that, plus a Napa gold oil filter, and I know I'm set every 4k miles or so with this set up without a 2nd thought. I'm just not brave enough to do extended drain intervals, yet. At least not with the Stratus, since it sits most of the time now and isn't driven often enough.

So, doing it myself in 30-45 min and I spend about $28 on each oil change. I could extend the VX eventually.

If you want to not feel cheap, here's how my 2002 GMC has been treated for the past 195,000 miles:

1. Until about 170,000 I'd go to one of 3 different mechanics or a quick lube place and let them put in whatever dinosaur juice they use. I did that when "Change engine oil" displayed on the dash - generally 5,000 to 7,000 miles. Sometimes I procrastinated for as much as another 3,000 miles.

2. Since then I've been doing it myself using SuperTech High Mileage 5w30 dinosaur juice and SuperTech filters. I do it twice a year. I drive the truck all winter and mostly park it in the summer. "Change engine oil" usually comes on after the winter but obviously not after the summer. This year I did not change it after winter and the message hasn't come on yet. I'll be changing it soon.

Result: Starts and runs as strong and efficient at 195,000 miles as it ever has. On cold mornings in the winter it has some piston slap, which is functionally insignificant but does sound kinda yucky (like a diesel), until it warms up slightly (10 to 30 seconds). On my most recent oil change I switched to Valvoline High Mileage and the piston slap got worse so I'll be switching back to SuperTech.

I believe BITOG has SuperTech all figured out. A quick googling reminds me that Warren Distribution is cited as the company making SuperTech oils.

I asked mainly because I found the idea of using recycled Mobil1 interesting. How would you get used Mobil1 to recycle? Used motor oil isn't kept separated by brand and tracked, it's all dumped into a big tank (along with other used oils).

While hoping to find out, I found this:
According to https://www.recycleoil.org/faqs/index.html#5 :
4. What is recycled motor oil used for?
Used motor oil can be reprocessed into fuel that can be used in furnaces for heat, or in power plants to generate electricity for homes, schools and businesses. It can also be used in industrial and utility boilers, blended for marine fuels, and other uses. Used motor oil can also be re-refined into lubricating oils that meet the same API specifications as virgin motor oil.

6. Where can I buy re-refined oil?
Contact your automotive suppliers or local retailers and ask if they carry re-refined oil. For more information, please click here.

That site implies that recycled motor oil is made but is not common. My relative's garage has a waste oil burner and the collected waste oils from vehicles are what heats his garage all winter.

Wal-Mart used to carry re-refined motor oil. It used to be in a black bottle with a huge eagle on the front label. Since I don't buy the stuff I don't pay much attention though. I don't know what type of maintenance my truck had before I bought it, but since I bought it with 108,000 miles on it I've run nothing but Mobil1 oils exclusively. I experience some mild piston slap when the engine is cold from sitting overnight, and the outside temp is below ~25F. It generally goes away after a moment, but it is there. If I remember correctly this started somewhere around 165,000 miles, but it is extremely rare that we get temps that low in my area, so it doesn't happen all that often. I think using the Mobil1 0W30 probably helps minimize this as it circulates quickly through the engine when cold.

WOW that's weird,I drive a 2001 GMC 4WD ext cab long bed that's my company's and I do pretty much the same thing. What ever dino juice they have at the local auto service station is fine for me. It has just over 200,000 miles on it and has had the cold start piston slap from day one when it was purchased new. It still doesn't use any oil between changes and still runs strong.

:thumbup: GM wasn't playing when they designed and built our trucks. They were built to last, without requiring any special attention beyond the recommended maintenance schedule.

On the note of recycled or re-refined oils, I remember seeing quarts of some in an AutoZone nearby here, but can't recall the brand. It was definitely with the idea of 'environmental friendly', and was encouraging people to recycle oil on the bottle for sell itself.

@ HC, I totally didn't realize how funny that sounded until you spun it around. All used oil IS just thrown in those big tank together.:D

totally w/ ya on that. i have one as well...why is 0w30 not avail as an EP. haven't seen one, and obviously it is avail as a non-EP. cannot imagine a better application than a fully syn 0w30.

Now that you've mentioned it, you're right. I've never seen EP 0W30.

Well, if Amsoil's SSO 0w-30 can be considered "EP", it is rated beyond their normal 25k mile service internal to 35k.

"EP" in my book. If we're talking strictly Mobil1, yes, I wish Mobil1 would have an "EP" 0w-30. My friend would probably buy the 5w-20 "EP" if they sold it in 5Q jugs more like the 5w-30. Forcing to go individual quarts isn't bad, just misses on a potential overall value savings. He runs 0w-20 in his Fit.

A few oil articles I did some reading on, warning long reads:

Scientific break-down?

https://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=136052

Some Amsoil guy, but knows his stuff -

https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-foru...tic-oil-2.html

both VERY good links. the first guy doesn't mention comparing all grades of synthetics tho. i once saw an independent study showing that amsoil has the highest flash point of any oil IN ALL GRADES(weights). and it had the lowest pour point as well.

so either side of the equation is covered. apparently the first guy believes the viscosity is not an issue under operating conditions. well, synthetics have the best start-up lube so...

they both believe in syn superiority and the second illustrates what i've been saying or years...that syn extended intervals actually SAVE MONEY(not to mention time) long term!