Winshield Washer Reservoir Question
 

i need to repair or replace my windshield washer reservoir. w/ winter and dryer weather coming i'd like to get this done soon.

so, should i buy a repair kit, replace it w/ OE, or buy a universal one?

it seems repair kits are overpriced and i'm skeptical of their effectiveness. OE from a salvage yard is a gamble, and i'm having difficulty finding one at a price that would make me forget the dependability of new one.

the following are some sites i've checked. the second one has some universals. the last one usually has some REALLY good prices, but not in this case...

https://www.am-autoparts.com/AM/Winds...ce=ShopzillaSF

https://www.usatoolmart.com/ShiftBoot...eservoirs.html

https://www.1aauto.com/1A/WasherReser...rolla/-/-/2000

https://www.autoanything.com/wipers-w.../201A3363.aspx

I would try to repair it first with silicone (not partially silconized caulk, but 100% GE-brand silicone), then with a fiberglass kit or tank repair kit (look for RV water/wase tank repair kits, they might be cheaper). If all that failed I'd probably rig it up with a jug that washer fluid comes in.

But, I'm excessively cheap like that sometimes...most people should probably just get a replacement tank.

i'm w/ ya HC as far as doing things on the cheap, but consider this $5 universal that has good reviews...

https://www.usatoolmart.com/ShiftBoot...e_603_001.html

but it won't let me see how much shipping is w/out first giving a payment option. :thumbdown:

They use Amazon.com to process their stuff, and I think they really are just an Amazon.com affiliate selling Amazon's own stock. Their site says if you buy $25 worth of stuff you can get free shipping, and it should suffice to buy stuff on Amazon.

I clicked through and shipping is $6.67 to my house.

Here's the amazon page:
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Solutio...3152980&sr=8-1

Only once did I have a washer tank leak on me. It was with Rusty years ago. I just went to the dealer and bought a new tank. I believe it was about $20 at the time. I'd check on the cost of a new tank from the dealer. If its under $30, I'd just get that. Otherwise I'd go to a U-Pull-It junkyard, that would probably be $5 or less for the tank. You can walk the yard, and you should be able to see signs of leakage from the tank (Blue streaks trailing from the bottom of the tank) before you pull it. An aftermarket tank would be a last resort for me.

jay,

on this model, chevy prizm/ toyota corolla, the top of the tank apparently cracks VERY easily. i've searched salvage yards on several of these cars, and every one of them is cracked in the same spot.

i'm thinking it's a design flaw, which leads me to seek an aftermarket part. and according HC's research, i could get that universal really cheap even w/ shipping. bad news is, i'd have to see the "low fluid" light until it burns out, 'cause it's doubtful the universal has a sensor hook-up.

If you go with the aftermarket unit, it shouldn't be too hard to figure out the low fluid level sensor's wiring and modify it so that the light stays off.

Well, in that instance I guess I'd go aftermarket. You should be able to experiment with the level sensor. Unplug it. If the light comes on, short the terminals on the connector. If you are crafty enough, you may be able to rig up the level sensor on the new tank.

-Jay

The coolant level sensor in my '88 Escort Pony went bad and the low level light stayed on all the time. All I had to do to resolve the problem was unplug the sensor, so that is something you might want to try before buying anything.

ok, got my universal reservoir today and got another question...

would drilling and mounting the pump horizontally on the bottom cause any issues rather than mounting it vertically on the side near the bottom as with the stock tank?