Moment of trivia:
158f is 70C, which would explain the oddest of the thermometer.
Same with max tire pressures; 44 and 51psi is 3 and 3.5 bar.

trollbait,
good call. Something seemed familiar about that number, but I didn't put it together.

holycow,
sounds like soled advice. Do you know of any free software for a palm. This seems like a way to upgrade the system to something i would use everyday.
I'm off to work, I just blocked off my radiator with some cardboard (with some slits on the side with the fan) so I want to give myself some extra time just in case. ...

I think I remember seeing ELM327 software for the Palm, but I don't remember if it was free.

Usually datasheets for chips give you a sample circuit you can follow. If you just copy that circuit they normally work perfect. I did that with my digital volume control chips.

Well this thread ran off topic and got forgotten, much like my intake project :)
I took off the silly plastic intake thing. Now it make more nose, and I don't really care.

I found a cooking thermometer at Ocean State Job Lot (a close out store). It's just like a indoor out door therm. but it reads from 32-300F with no "indoor" read out. Plus you can set a alarm temp (could be a good way to let myself know my air filter is on fire)

I haven't made any steps in making a WAI. as i've likely mentioned i working with a Horizontal 4 engine, which exhausts from the bottom, and draws air from the top. This got me thinking about bringing the exhaust to the intake. Say a .250" pipe from just behind the cat. up to a little radiator where the intakes pulls from.

Then it hit me, why not blow a little exhaust into the intake. I've looked for some info on people doing this, but came up with very little (a few patents).
Exhaust in the intake would be like having a smaller cylinder, and if taken pre-cat. it would have a little fuel in it too. No computer mods would be necessary if put in after the MAP sensor.
Lots of pressure regulators, computer controlled cooling fans and valves would likely be necessary to get the best results, but something should be possible with out.

Any thoughts on this topic would be great.
Also any knowledge about high temp gate and or pin valves that are readily available would be of much use.
oh, and dose anyone have a stick welder i could use?

That idea sounds like existing EGR systems. You might find it easier to modify an EGR system than to create it from scratch.

good point, it may be easy to "beef up" that existing system. I need to spend some time taking my car apart and putting it back together. It's just been to cold to do that with out anything needing repair. In fact i've been putting off things that do need repair; brakes, timing belt, tran. fluid change, body work.....

In my car I let the intake suck air that's been through the radiator. A lot easier than running ducting to the exhaust area. I get a gain of 35-40 deg. F. Not as much as with setups that pull air past the exhaust manifold but I like it for now.

In my car blocking the lower openings and leaving the uppers open worked best for intake heating. ymmv of course.

Yeah, but if you made your air intake pull from the radiator through metal tubing that was attached to engine block it would drastically heat up the air. Simple metal banding clips attached to key points on the block or bolts that hold the metal tube to the engine will result in hot spots that can warm up the air.

Yeah, you just described EGR. I was working on a system in my last car so that anything above 20% throttle was fully controlled by the amount of exhaust gas introduced into the intake.

I started running into issues quickly though, the ECU and transmission don't agree when it comes to running the engine WOT while cruising so the car needed the gasses introduced after the throttle body. Not a big deal except you then need a microcontroller and servo controlling the exhaust gas inlet based on what you were demanding from the car and it became a bigger project than I had time for.

Also, you can't do this with a factory speed density system. Only mass flow unless you go to MegaSquirt or something.

On the Tracker I also had EGR check failures from the ECU because it would open then close the EGR valve at highway speeds and check for a change in the MAP sensor while verifying that the pressure should stay the same because of a constant flow by the air flow meter. With no (little since I used the brake booster inlet for testing) manifold vacuum at highway speeds it couldn't verify EGR and threw a code.

It's a great idea though. My Durango could probably see a huge increase in highway fuel economy from a system like this since I run 8-10% throttle at 65 and don't have factory EGR.