Oh yeah... Do not know how soon you would need to get it back together... But if you think you find something that should work, both Swagelock and Earl's have locations near me (closest Swagelock to you is in Billerica, MA, but I think you might be able to order directly off of Swagelock's site if you sign up for an account). I actually get a discount at Earl's that might help out a bit too if you find anything from them you might want. Would do it for the cost of the parts, gas and shipping (could estimate total cost before you ordered).

Thanks, I appreciate the offer.

Any guess if this thing is as good as the Swagelock?
https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-3210-43005.aspx

This Swagelock says it's for brass tube but I bet it's just fine for steel tube; steel+brass is obviously ok, since that's how the car was already built anyway...:
https://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Swage...ssoriesQ5fGear
Under $5 shipped, already at a right angle, could be just right.

I would guess the Dorman would probably be fine. Probably not as high a pressure rating as a Swagelock, but still better than just sliding on a rubber line with a crimp/clamp.

I would stay away from the brass Swagelock on Ebay and look for a stainless one if you decide to go that route. Some metals tend to react with each other and even though I am sure it would probably be fine, why risk it.

Also, the right angle is good, but you would then still have to put hard tubing on each end and then figure out how to attach the tubing to the carb. The Swagelock with Earl's fittings I posted should hopefully get you to just put the Swagelock on the stock line and screw the Earl's into the carb. Just something to think about.

Yeah- that dorman compression fitting will do the same thing as the Swagelock- for less money too. You may even be able to find one at your local Lowe's/Home Depot in the plumbing section.

When I use the rubber hose over a metal tube method, I rough up the outside of the tube a little with a file to reduce the possibility of it sliding off (along with 2 clamps on each end)- but even though it has always worked for me, I concede that it is not a failproof method of repair.

You will need a nice clean, square cut for the compression fitting to work- so you'll need to use a tubing cutter (the type that rotates around the tube and scribes a groove) to make the cut.

One thing to note is that compression fittings require that the end of the pipes be perfectly round. If its not perfectly round due to the bending process used, or just 30 years of riding in that engine bay and being knocked around every time the carb, distributor, or water pump was worked on, it won't seal right.

what i would do personally is just spend the less than $20 for the flare tool (can use it on brakelines too) and get the small tubing cutter (ive seen them at ace/lowes in the discount bin for $3)

if youve got a harbor freight id deff go for them

id either get a compression fitting/union and some copper line or just flare both ends and slip a rubber hose over it with dual clamps.

prolly fix it with buying tools less than $20...foot of fuel line is like a buck if that, get any old hose clamps maybe 2-3 bucks for a 4 pack and your set.

A tubing cutter will not work. I would have to remove the line from the car, and if I'm going to do that then it will be worth trying to find a complete replacement line (or having one bent). I'll also need a new everything else between there and the gas tank.

My dremel with a diamond cutoff can cut it just fine without de-rounding it, if it's currently round at all.

I went to 3 auto parts stores. They all have straight tube but no right-angle tube that will work. Two of them tried to bend the tube for me and failed, kinking it.

I think I'll need to use rubber line.

Did they use the bending tool that they probably also sell?

Here is the tool I used when doing my brake lines, but can bend fuel line too, to a right angle, without kinking (thus the point of the tool... lol):

https://hoist.hrtc.net/~blanghammer/B...eProject10.JPG

One of them tried a tool but it wasn't quite that nice.

I'll either DIY at home by making my own die out of wood and filling the tube with sand to help prevent kinking, or take it to my father in law's shop which probably has a good bender.
https://www.fuelly.com/attachments/fo...3cc6d3ee2b.jpg

That line does not go to the tank. It just goes a couple of feet to the side of the engine where your mechanical fuel pump is mounted.