I know. But, think about it: If I had that much trouble getting this end of it unscrewed, what's next? I'll need to replace the fuel pump. What's going to be on the other side of that? Another seized fuel line. That will happen all the way back to the tank and I'll have to replace the tank too, if I want all my repairs to be 100% proper bolt-on using OEM-like parts. If I'm going to replace everything from the carburetor inlet to (and including) the gas tank, might as well do that TBI conversion while I'm at it!

That's why it makes sense to repair it in place. The rest of the system works fine as long as I don't try to disconnect it. I'll leave that investment for another time, after I determine that the car is viable.

A small tubing cutter should fit in the space you have. I had (at least from what it looks like in your pictures) even less space on my Regal and used a tool like I linked below. My tool was maybe about 2" long and you should have enough "flex" in the tub to move it around to run the cutter around.

https://www.homedepot.ca/wcsstore/Hom...ngCutter_4.jpg

yea also something about a cutoff wheel that throws a few sparks and cutting a fuel line dont seem smart lol.


your gonna have a rubber fuel line between the body and engine somewhere or your fuel line would have broken within the first hundred miles from the factory due to the engine flexing.

either way those guys at the auto parts store must be idiots if they cant bend a simple tube lol

or just use copper for fuel lines, we have and its just as strong and a hell of alot easier to bend

you wont need to replace the fuel pump, even if the line gets broken again or mangled who cares your replacing it anyways haha (i actually think my chevettes has rubber lines on both sides of the fuel pump...)

spray some penetratign oil all over the line near the coupling and threads of it. it will eventually come out.

zoop zoop you guys know about car-part.com right nation junkyard directory
?