Repairing metal fuel line
 

This is on my 1980 Buick LeSabre 4.1L V6 with a Quadrajet side-inlet carburetor.

I spent a bunch of money, weeks of struggle, and an accidental heavy inhalation of burning chemical fumes trying to avoid damaging this fuel line while getting its fitting un-seized. Finally I decided to sacrifice the fitting by cutting it off.

FAIL! The line twisted and cracked while I was working on that. So, I cut it off at the crack, which was at the 90? turn. It is 3/8" outside diameter.

As I understand, my options are:
1. Metal self-flaring repair kit with a bend in it.
2. Buy a DIY single-flare tool and a piece of bent line.
3. Rubber, nylon, or braided steel wrapped line.
4. Have a complete replacement line bent (since nobody's going to stock a fuel line for a 30 year old car), then try to dig everything out to replace it.

What is safe and inexpensive?

https://lh6.ggpht.com/_oNsRR_T1Qx0/S8...0/IMG_4168.jpg

2 options:

Option 1. Look to see if a local scrapyard has a car you may be able to pull a fuel line off of.

Option 2. Cut the last 6 inches off. New pipe with flare and 90* bend. Attach with 3 inch long piece of rubber fuel line and 2 ring clamps.

Whatever you do, reinstall the new line with teflon tape so it will never sieze again.


EDIT: Don't forget a new fuel filter while you have it apart. They're cheap. Just replace it no matter how many miles are on it.

Swagelock fittings.... It is what I used on my fuel system when I modified it on my "race" car. The swagelock fittings are rated at something like 15,000 psi (much higher than your fuel system will ever go.. lol) and would allow you to adapt to a standard AN fitting. Best part, no need for special tools to install, installation is SUPER simple.

https://www.swagelok.com/search/produ...=SS-600-A-6ANF

https://www.swagelok.com/images/produ...600-A-6ANF.jpg

And a video on the installation of a Swagelock fitting:

https://www.swagelok.com/FittingInstallVideo.htm


I believe they can also be taken apart an reused if you ever need to service that fuel line again.

Regarding Jay's good ideas:

1. That's a lot of work, on the off-chance that I could even find a matching 4.1 V6 in a junkyard (99.9999% sure I can't).

2. I forgot the option of a new pre-flared pipe and just using a 3 inch rubber line. That's approximately what I meant with my option 3 above though, and it seems like the most likely solution.

I already have the new filter. That's the whole reason I did this. I definitely plan to use teflon tape and/or anti-seize stuff. I'm going to try to make a habit of it for most fasteners on my vehicles.

Edit: Also, I'll have to check out the swage lock fitting.

I'd cut the metal line again about 7-10 inches from the carb, slip a piece of 3/8" ID rubber gas hose at least 3 inches over the metal tubing (assuming no rust and it is smooth there) and then buy a metal barbed fitting that will screw into the carb filter fitting. Use 2 hose clamps on each end of the rubber hose. That line will see a max of 8 psi and should be fine.

I cut a section of corroded and leaking metal fuel line out of an 87 Acura (fuel injected= 35 psi) and did the same type of repair and never had another problem with it.

The swage lock fitting will only work on a straight run of tubing. I used one on a hydraulic clutch line and it worked fine.

i like Erik's idea, but would add an inline filter to the rubber hose.

Teflon tape/goop from a tube is a no-no for fuel fittings.

You "shouldn't" need anything... but if you do, a very small amount of gasoline specific tape can be used.

I like Erik's idea also.

I've always used teflon tape on fuel line fittings. Never had it dissolve or give me other problems.

I have seen too many people use this technique on low pressure lines (probably more than the 8psi max you mention, but still not anything like 50+psi) and have them fail on them, usually at the most inopportune times. Have heard of people wiping out transmissions when they install a trans cooler by splicing lines and then one slips off and drains the tranny of fluid.

He asked for a safe and inexpensive way. While using Swagelock fittings and possibly a stainless braided line section might not be the cheapest way, it should still be able to easily done for $50 or so. To me that is inexpensive for a SAFE and quality repair.

Not knocking on the rubber hose and clamp method for those that want to use it, just saying it is not for me.

Swagelock fitting I linked is $11.50 (if you wanted the male version, it would be $13.80 and can be found here: Swagelock).

Depending on actual dimensions you are working with on the car you could possibly get away with something like this to attach the carb to the Swagelock and avoid making a small braided line:

Earl's AT922166ERL (90* Male 6AN to Male Swivel 3/8" NPT) which runs about $25.00

https://www.catalograck.com/ImgVD/EAR/AT9221_ERL.jpg


Might have to verify where the AN would start to seal into the Swagelock to make sure it gets clocked the right way, but after you get that fitting connected to the Swagelock, the swivel would allow you to screw it into the carb.

You have any idea on what the thread is on the carb?

Oh yeah... Do not know how soon you would need to get it back together... But if you think you find something that should work, both Swagelock and Earl's have locations near me (closest Swagelock to you is in Billerica, MA, but I think you might be able to order directly off of Swagelock's site if you sign up for an account). I actually get a discount at Earl's that might help out a bit too if you find anything from them you might want. Would do it for the cost of the parts, gas and shipping (could estimate total cost before you ordered).

Thanks, I appreciate the offer.

Any guess if this thing is as good as the Swagelock?
https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-3210-43005.aspx

This Swagelock says it's for brass tube but I bet it's just fine for steel tube; steel+brass is obviously ok, since that's how the car was already built anyway...:
https://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Swage...ssoriesQ5fGear
Under $5 shipped, already at a right angle, could be just right.

I would guess the Dorman would probably be fine. Probably not as high a pressure rating as a Swagelock, but still better than just sliding on a rubber line with a crimp/clamp.

I would stay away from the brass Swagelock on Ebay and look for a stainless one if you decide to go that route. Some metals tend to react with each other and even though I am sure it would probably be fine, why risk it.

Also, the right angle is good, but you would then still have to put hard tubing on each end and then figure out how to attach the tubing to the carb. The Swagelock with Earl's fittings I posted should hopefully get you to just put the Swagelock on the stock line and screw the Earl's into the carb. Just something to think about.

Yeah- that dorman compression fitting will do the same thing as the Swagelock- for less money too. You may even be able to find one at your local Lowe's/Home Depot in the plumbing section.

When I use the rubber hose over a metal tube method, I rough up the outside of the tube a little with a file to reduce the possibility of it sliding off (along with 2 clamps on each end)- but even though it has always worked for me, I concede that it is not a failproof method of repair.

You will need a nice clean, square cut for the compression fitting to work- so you'll need to use a tubing cutter (the type that rotates around the tube and scribes a groove) to make the cut.

One thing to note is that compression fittings require that the end of the pipes be perfectly round. If its not perfectly round due to the bending process used, or just 30 years of riding in that engine bay and being knocked around every time the carb, distributor, or water pump was worked on, it won't seal right.

what i would do personally is just spend the less than $20 for the flare tool (can use it on brakelines too) and get the small tubing cutter (ive seen them at ace/lowes in the discount bin for $3)

if youve got a harbor freight id deff go for them

id either get a compression fitting/union and some copper line or just flare both ends and slip a rubber hose over it with dual clamps.

prolly fix it with buying tools less than $20...foot of fuel line is like a buck if that, get any old hose clamps maybe 2-3 bucks for a 4 pack and your set.

A tubing cutter will not work. I would have to remove the line from the car, and if I'm going to do that then it will be worth trying to find a complete replacement line (or having one bent). I'll also need a new everything else between there and the gas tank.

My dremel with a diamond cutoff can cut it just fine without de-rounding it, if it's currently round at all.

I went to 3 auto parts stores. They all have straight tube but no right-angle tube that will work. Two of them tried to bend the tube for me and failed, kinking it.

I think I'll need to use rubber line.

Did they use the bending tool that they probably also sell?

Here is the tool I used when doing my brake lines, but can bend fuel line too, to a right angle, without kinking (thus the point of the tool... lol):

https://hoist.hrtc.net/~blanghammer/B...eProject10.JPG

One of them tried a tool but it wasn't quite that nice.

I'll either DIY at home by making my own die out of wood and filling the tube with sand to help prevent kinking, or take it to my father in law's shop which probably has a good bender.
https://www.fuelly.com/attachments/fo...3cc6d3ee2b.jpg

That line does not go to the tank. It just goes a couple of feet to the side of the engine where your mechanical fuel pump is mounted.

I know. But, think about it: If I had that much trouble getting this end of it unscrewed, what's next? I'll need to replace the fuel pump. What's going to be on the other side of that? Another seized fuel line. That will happen all the way back to the tank and I'll have to replace the tank too, if I want all my repairs to be 100% proper bolt-on using OEM-like parts. If I'm going to replace everything from the carburetor inlet to (and including) the gas tank, might as well do that TBI conversion while I'm at it!

That's why it makes sense to repair it in place. The rest of the system works fine as long as I don't try to disconnect it. I'll leave that investment for another time, after I determine that the car is viable.

A small tubing cutter should fit in the space you have. I had (at least from what it looks like in your pictures) even less space on my Regal and used a tool like I linked below. My tool was maybe about 2" long and you should have enough "flex" in the tub to move it around to run the cutter around.

https://www.homedepot.ca/wcsstore/Hom...ngCutter_4.jpg

yea also something about a cutoff wheel that throws a few sparks and cutting a fuel line dont seem smart lol.


your gonna have a rubber fuel line between the body and engine somewhere or your fuel line would have broken within the first hundred miles from the factory due to the engine flexing.

either way those guys at the auto parts store must be idiots if they cant bend a simple tube lol

or just use copper for fuel lines, we have and its just as strong and a hell of alot easier to bend

you wont need to replace the fuel pump, even if the line gets broken again or mangled who cares your replacing it anyways haha (i actually think my chevettes has rubber lines on both sides of the fuel pump...)

spray some penetratign oil all over the line near the coupling and threads of it. it will eventually come out.

zoop zoop you guys know about car-part.com right nation junkyard directory
?