Oil Filter Testing
 

ran across an oil filer test...https://filtrationcomparisons.weebly.com/index.html

my choice(NAPA Gold/Wix) did very well in the 3 part conclusion. adding a 4th(price) criteria would arguably put it at #1.

NIce find! If you add the yearly NAPA Gold filter sale into the equasion, it gets even better! I buy about 4 filters each year when they go on sale for half price. I get them for a bigger engine, so they're almost twice the size of my OEM one. I pay about $4 each for them.

My own category picks after all these examinations are as follows:

Filtration:
1. Delco UPF 52
2. PureOne, Bosch Premium, and Donaldson
3. Purolator Classic, Mobil 1 Ext Perf. and K&N, Mann, Fram Extended Guard
4. Wix/NAPA Gold and Wix built Delco Duraguard PF53, Mahle
5. Ecore style AC/Delco, Supetech, STP, and Fram Extraguard
6. Denso, Honda, Hamp

Construction:
1. Mobil 1 and K&N
2. Wix/NAPA Gold, Fram Extended Guard, Mann, Mahle
3. Purolator, Bosch Premium and PureOne
4. Denso, Honda, Hamp
5. Ecore style AC/Delco, Supetech, STP
6. Fram Extraguard

Easy oil flow:
1. Denso, Honda, Hamp
2. Mann, Mahle, Purolator Classic, Proline, Fram Extraguard, Fram Toughguard
3. Mobil 1, K&N, Wix/NAPA Gold,
4. PureOne, and Bosch Premium
5. Ecore style AC/Delco, Supetech, STP
6. Delco UPF52 , Fram Extended Guard



it took someone long enough for this to some upon us,

pure one is my choice recently
it's probably good to keep my engine cleaner..
purolator classic seems to be the best all around choice vs cost especially
then look at honda.. and wonder why they get such good mileage...
im not liking the constricted oil flow but thats way better than fram extended guard haha

i don't remember if it was that link, but something i read claimed that some "experts" believe that the filter is more important than the oil! :confused:

what is it that the filter needs to do thats so important? filter better or allow good flow and filter good.. or is it all about the filtering that they were referring too?

That could be true. Major branded oil all meets SAE specs per the labels. (even the store brands do) So then the job a good filter does becomes real important then I would think.

I have been using NAPA GOLD.

Interesting read.

NAPA Gold/Wix man myself. Saves some money over Mobil1 EP filters, but even more so if you aren't going 7,500+ miles between changes. Not knowing the true state of the VX I got just before we hit 2010, I'm sticking to under 4,000 miles every change, even after I got to full-synthetic.

i'd stick to that if i weren't using a TRUE synthetic. remember, the govt allows fake synthetics to be called such if their process(not base oil) is synthetic...https://www.gassavers.org/showthread.php?t=12211

using a true PAO base oil, you need not change it until 10k or more.

I would do that if I knew the driving habits of the previous owner. I'm thinking of using Mobil1 0w-30. I know Valvoline and Pensoil "syntheytics" are all petroleum based still. Do Mobil1 and Amsoil fall under the catagory of fake PAO based or something? Molecular level wise they aren't petroleum based anymore.

Funny, I have a friend that's got his modded Nissan Titan using Royal Purple(he's got a deal on it), but he does a lot of towing. I'd hesitate to put an Ester based oil in a street car otherwise.

ADDED: Might I specify car care of previous owner more importantly.

i believe amsoil and mobile1 both offer non-PAO base oils to attract "budget" minded customers.

a good rule of thumb is to see the recommended change intervals. if they recommend 7.5 to 10k(or more), it's likely that one is a PAO based oil.

i pretty sure mobile1 0w30 is a true synthetic. the difference between that and amsoil's best(also a 0w30), is that amsoil uses a better(more expensive) base stock and adds ester as a seal softener.

Oh, that's pretty cleaver of them. Since I'm not going to go those intervals I won't worry about Amsoil, but they'd be my choice with a new car like a Fit, mind you.

Good thing the VX I have only calls for 3.5 Qs with filter change. Two of the 5 Q buys from "Wal-Mart" will nearly net me 3 oil changes. =D

...but I definitely could spot the "Clean 5000" Mobil1 as being a lame synthetic.

ABSOTIVELY!!! i'd rather buy valvoline max life, which is not a bad product. i use amsoil signature series. it has a 35k interval :eek: . obviously that is in ideal conditions--severe service dictates 17.5k miles. i change it once per year(10-12k miles), and the filter again half way(6months).

you doing fine tho. when you first switch to synthetic, it's a good idea to do a short first interval because of the cleansing attributes of this type of oil.

some say the product is not worth the price. i say i pay less than conventional oil users if you calculate the many more changes accounting for the price of more oil and filters, plus time. time is money!

Definitely with you there. I'm actually using the MaxLife Valvoline right now. The old Swedish lady that I got the car from was using the same conventional Castrol GTX from a standard service center continuously. I put SeaFoam in the crankcase prior to the oil change, for about 100 miles or so prior, to help with that process in anticipation of the swap to full syn. I'm simply using the MaxLife as the transitional oil. Will use SeaFoam again. I should drop the oil pan and replace the seal before going to the Mobil1, though, after using the SeaFoam a couple times without doing so.

I did this with a '99 Dodge Stratus I own as well before going to 0w-30. I can get over 27 MPG long distance driving now in that car. The best part is I don't lose any more oil than when I first bought it from a relative that was using conventional. I've had the Mobil1 0w-30 for some time in there now, and I'm stretching it to 4,000 miles already. I haven't had to add oil. Maybe I've lost half a quart in 3,500 miles.

On my 98 GMC K1500 I usually have to add a quart at about 3,500 - 4,000 miles, and I change at 5,000. I've been using Mobil1 0w30 in it for a while now. I don't think its using any more oil than when I was running Mobil1 5w30. Most of my oil usage I think is from oil being wiped off the dipstick. I check my oil EVERY time I purchase fuel. On average I go about 180-200 miles between fillups (can't resist stopping for cheap gas if its available), so that's a lot of dipstick wiping going on.

Re: Oil Filter Testing
 

i know for many of you guys that buy mobile1 motor oil at wally world, it would be very convenient to buy a fram filter while there, but think again please...https://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfi...ers.html#avoid

Re: Oil Filter Testing
 

If you're at Walmart and you're not buying an AC Delco, Motorcraft, etc...why not buy Supertech?
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=1077328
I've been using them, they work great for me.

Also, not all Frams are orange cans of death. The Fram CH9911 for my VW is a rebranded high quality Mann filter made in Germany.

Re: Oil Filter Testing
 

it seems just like fram, supertech has some outsourcing...https://users.zoominternet.net/~capro...e%20ST7317.htm

again, think and research what you buy.

HC, how much are those ST oil filters?

Re: Oil Filter Testing
 

Yup, apparently SuperTech filters are from Champion and are decent. They seem decent enough, I've been using them for a couple years now.

I don't remember how much they are.

Re: Oil Filter Testing
 

decent? from my link...

There is a newer version of the Wal-Mart oil filters showing up in the Wal-Mart's.

This new filter looks just like the older one on the outside, but when I cut one of these

apart I found that the pressure relief valve has been changed. In my below report of the ST7317 oil filter I stated that it uses a rubber to metal seal for the pressure relief valve,

the old version is a product of the USA.

The pressure relief valve in the newer version has been changed and not for the good. The new filter uses a hard plastic to metal valve much like the ones in the Fram's. They are two quick and obvious ways to spot this new filter.

price: at the end of the link it claims(at the time of posting)a price of $2.07. not bad.

Re: Oil Filter Testing
 

Ah. Well, if they made the same change to the ST3675 then maybe it's good that I got a K&N HP-2006 for free with my oil this time. To be honest I can't say I understand why the plastic valve is inferior. From your link, "It's not at all like the hard plastic valve used in the Fram filters." and "I think it still may be better than the Fram filters.".

Re: Oil Filter Testing
 

I still think its all about what application you are going for in regards to filter, and drain interval dictates that more than anything, IMO. Some Fram filters are solid still, yet a lot are garbage compared to the other products on the market.

...but if you are talking 3k mile changes it really doesn't matter THAT much. For that interval, its more of buying protection in your mind than actual risk of harm. Now, I wouldn't trust a fram at 5k unless it was a particular one that was known to do a really good job. Yet, the worry would cause me to invest slightly more in a better filter. Since, of course, $2-3 dollars spread out over an extra 1k-2k miles is more or less breaking even.

Re: Oil Filter Testing
 

I have run Wallyworld brand 5W30 in both the Contour and now the Mazda almost exclusivly and do an analysis about every second or third change.
I have run it as far as 9.4k and it still had protection left according to Blackstone.
I also try to buy good filters though.

Jim

Re: Oil Filter Testing
 

Cutting open an oil filter and just looking at it isn't going to tell you much, if anything, about how well it will perform. Your eyeball can't tell how a material will hold up to hot motor oil under pressure. The only thing I've ever found useful out of the practice in the area of the filter media.

As for Fram, have they ever had a major recall, loss a class action suit, or something that would result from them selling and under spec, poor quality product? I've heard the stories of their filters failing for an individual, but product failure is a possibility for everything. Perhaps other filters are over-engineered for the application.
I don't use Fram, because the Supertech and Motorcraft filters for the Sable are cheaper at Wal-mart, and I haven't found a Fram for the Ecotec.

Re: Oil Filter Testing
 

Okay, all things being equal. If you didn't high rev your engine much; at least not when you didn't need to, wouldn't filtration be valued over flow rate for FE?

That way you aren't going to see noticeable differences in oil pressure if you aren't 'calling' for it, right? Aside from the filter potentially getting clogged, what other time would an increase in oil pressure occur while driving aside from high revving?

So, as varied as 'results' can be be or blown out of proportion could you say:
Its better to have efficiently filtered oil(allowing for less resistance/wear in your engine when compared to 'less' efficiently filtered oil), allow for better FE gains?

If all things are equal(engine and oil selected) when comparing filters in rated filtration vs flow rate...

Just wondering.

ADDED: For instance, in his test I actually do use the 1334 Napa Gold. Regardless of how it compared to the 'other' filters that weren't for my application, it was better in filtration compared to the 'higher flow' stock Honda/OEM filter for my VX. I get better filtration with the Napa Gold at the sacrifice of some flow rate. The gold still scored middle towards higher end of the road in either scenario. The stock filter on my car would allow for more engine wear, but the advantage of the stock is the higher flow ensures oil pressure all of the time since its a high rev engine(needing to hold up to oil pressure increases). Since I'm not racing or high revving much compared to a normal lead foot in the same car, I want more filtration even though flow rate is not as high. In either case, the Napa Gold/Wix was showing to be solid in rate and filtration in comparison to the other filters that were considered more or less 'interchangeable' for my car.

Lastly, I can vouch for the claims that these filters go on sale. I got like a 40% off deal when I first bought the 1334 Napa Gold filter locally. Little did I realize I should have stocked up then. Its about $7.29 ish year round otherwise. Not high end pricing nor low end. If its on sale down around $4 each its worth it every time over stock in MY application(car/engine/demands etc).

Re: Oil Filter Testing
 

more thoughts leading to more questions...https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...&Number=334502

Re: Oil Filter Testing
 

The flip side of better filtration, assuming that means finer particle size, is that it'll clog up faster. Letting small particles that fit through the engine clearances might be better when an extended change interval than having the oil go through the bypass valve before the change time comes up.

Re: Oil Filter Testing
 

FWIW I've been using Fram Filters for 8 years.

Never had a problem.

Used them in Camaro Z28's, a Subaru, DSM's, Saturns, a Grand Prix, a VW, etc.


I stick to anywhere from 5-7k mile intervals, all have been on dino oil except the Z28's.

Re: Oil Filter Testing
 

Well, in my case, that's why the Wix/NG 1334 is a bigger filter than the one's with higher flow rate. It has more media to filter with. I may know different once in the future if I go to a long OCI, using either an Amsoil or Mobil1.

Personally, I could still see myself using 2 Napa Gold's in the span of the interval and topping off the oil. Yet, at some point, using more oil to top off after "saving" money in the way of oil filter selection, its really only saving compared to the Amsoil. Mobil1 would still be the way to go if it was about avoiding paying for the Amsoil filter. Which, I haven't seen someone compare yet in those 'tests' from BITOG.

Re: Oil Filter Testing
 

In my '79 Chevette, (bought at 80k, sold at 260k still running), I used any cheap oil filter I could find. In my '85 Lincoln (bought at 134k, junked at 410k) I used whatever filter was on sale (usually Fram or a store brand). Same with my Geo (bought at 151k, now at 228k, doing fine). Same with all my other cars through the years. I see lots of various claims and counter claims for oil filters, my experience has been that pretty much they all perform adequately, if you change oil regularly and change the filter each oil change. Just my two Indian Head pennies' worth.

Re: Oil Filter Testing
 

Once changed the filter on the HHR at around 7000 miles on Mobil1. After that and a 1/2 quart of top off, the oil on the dipstick was no longer black, and appeared almost new.
I think I'll go with a synthetic, wal-mart or mobil, oil for 2 countdowns of the oil monitor and replace the filter after the first cycle. The cartridges for the ecotec cost about twice as much as a spin on, but they're hella easy to change.

Re: Oil Filter Testing
 

The Holy Cow asked me to comment on this thread. I've never done any testing on oil filters, but I assume he want's me to put my 2 cents worth in because of having a car with over 510K miles. I'm sure there are some filters that are better than others, but I've always just used whatever brand filter I could pick up the cheapest whenever I needed them. I know I've used Car & Driver, Fram, STP, Supertech, Motorcraft, Mighty, A/C, Castrol, Quaker State, Purolator, and Pensky. There's probably been other brands too that I just can't remember at the present time. I'm currently going 10K miles between oil changed on that car using Lube Contol LC-20, Pennzoil 20w20 that I bought from a man that had several cases for sale at a flea market several years ago. I bought about 12 cases at $.65 a quart. The filters I'm currently using on the '88 Escort with 510K miles are some very old A/C's that I bought for $1. each at a flea market and I change them at the 10K mile oil change interval. Until I bought the Pennzoil 20w20 I had always ran conventional 10w40 motor oil of varoius brands along with varoius brand oil filters. I still use 10w40 in all my other cars and use varoius brands of filters

Re: Oil Filter Testing
 

Some things to be asked, Ford Man(thanks for sharing the experience by the way):

What is the shelf-life of motor oil anyway? 2, 3 years? How old is that Pennzoil stuff? Just a thought. ;)

Have you always changed at 10k intervals? How do you drive your car MOST of the time, during any said interval?

Is it driven often? As in more than 2 or 3 times a week; not including short trips but actually getting up to operating tempt for a measurable amount of time/distance?

Did it ever have any major mechanic failures while in operation,(ever had overheating etc)? Did you stay on top of regular performance maintenance intervals as well? What is your climate conditions like year round? Have you towed much/ever with this vehicle?

All of these things are important to specify if another person chooses to start using conventional oil with any filter they can get and go 10k mile intervals. I wouldn't do that on that next generation V6 Stratus from the one I have(99 I-4) since it was prone to sludge and would suffer a pre-mature death.

Not that you are suggesting that, but some people could still run away with your experience, taking it out of prospective. I'm not familiar with your vehicle, but I wonder if they typically would last that long if cared for? Nice milestones.

Re: Oil Filter Testing
 

I have no idea what the shelf life of motor is, but I'm sure the Pennzoil I've been using for the past several years was probably at least 10-15 years old when I bought it because I haven't seen 20w20 on the store shelves in years and the API service on label on the bottle is SF/SE. As for the shelf life of oil I don't worry about it. I've currently got about 25 cases of oil on hand that I bought before the price went through the roof and use it in all my cars and never have had any lubrication problems. I'm currently using some Exxon Superflo in my '97 Escort wagon with less than 30K miles on it and I've had that oil ever since before I bought the car new and still have about 4 cases of it.

I just started the 10K mile change interval about 35K miles ago when I started using LC-20. Proir to that the change interval probably averaged 4-5K miles. The only reason I started using the 10K mile change interval is because the LC-20 recommends 10K mile intervals and I couldn't think of a better car to test it on than one with 500K miles. If there's no problems after a couple hundred thousand miles I'll increase the change interval in my better cars. The 510K mile Escort currently uses a quart of oil about every 1000-1200 miles and I use the oil I drain from my better cars at oil changes for topping it off instead of using new oil.

The car is still driven almost every day and most trips are 25+ miles each now. When it was being driven to work on construction jobs for about the first 12 years of it's life, I was usually driving anywhere from 25-65 miles each way to and from work 5-6 days a week.

Never had any major mechanical failures. It has overheated twice because of a bad temperature sensor. As for maintenance schedules about the only thing I really tried to keep on top of was making sure the fluid levels were kept in the safe range (no special maintenance schedule) and making repairs when needed. Our climate here in this area of NC is pretty mild. Summer time highs usually run in the 90's to low 100's and winter time lows usually run anywhere from the single digits to the 30's. I've never used the car for any type of towing.

Re: Oil Filter Testing
 

That's great information, man! Thanks for sharing. I have seen information; but haven't investigated, about the LC stuff before. Is it sorta like the Lucas 'Oil Stabilizer'?

Re: Oil Filter Testing
 

I'm really not sure what the LC-20 is, but my guess is that it's just an oil additive package to help renew the additives since you just add 1 oz per quart of oil at oil change and 1 oz every 1000 miles between changes.

Re: Oil Filter Testing
 

One other thing I forgot to mention in the above post about the '88 Escort is that I have used a quart of Slick 50 or similar product in it every 50K miles ever since it had 150K miles and use it in my other cars every 50K miles. I'm not saying this to get a big discussion started about Slick 50, or other additives, because I know there are people who are convinced they are no good and they have been discussed over and over. I'm just telling what has worked for me.