Re: new vacuum advance/ now idle is rough.
 

I've done all I can do and I'm off to the emission test today.

I adjusted fuel level (down to center of window)
Adjusted idle to 800~850 rpm using a external tach. It showed my dash tach was off about 50rpm.
New vacuum advance.
New carburetor insulator.
Spent days looking for vacuum leaks. This was hard to do, believe it or not. I was spraying carb cleaner over areas and I'd get fluctuations in the idle rpm.
The carburetor was sucking up fumes from small drain holes under the air cleaner. and would suck in some fumes.
I tried the stack idea, but what I was using didn't work well either due to a lose seal.

I ended up taking a plastic dryer vent hose and used some safety wire pliers and twisted a tight seal around the carburetors lip. I extended the hose over the fender and then I sprayed everything with carb cleaner and starting fluid.
No leaks detected!

We'll see what happens today and go from there.

Re: new vacuum advance/ now idle is rough.
 

Just incase someone reads this and was wondering.
I did a full tune up including new plug wires before the emissions failed.

Re: new vacuum advance/ now idle is rough.
 

I wanted to change the oil and PCV before the big test. I'v located the PCV in my previous attempt at being in the vicinity of the oil filter and the underside of the intake. Now that I have the oil filter off there seems to be a big black cover bolted to the block. Anyone know how to get this PCV off????

Re: new vacuum advance/ now idle is rough.
 

The PCV slides into the top of that black tin oil/vapor separator. The vacuum hose that goes down between the intake runners for cylinder 2 and 3 is connected to the top of the PCV valve. Some guys say that when they pull the vac hose out the top of that black box, the valve usually comes out with it.

Re: new vacuum advance/ now idle is rough.
 

Thanks for the tip. I've got the oil filter off now, so if I run into problems doing that method I can get underneath and guide it back in place. :D