Used car idea
After I part out my 2001 Honda Accord I'm going to be in the market for a used vehicle.
I will be able to spend $3,000 so I am going to be diligent in my search since time is not an issue. The must have characteristics of the car I buy will be: 1) Manual transmission 2) 4 cylinder 3) 150,000 miles maximum 4) Timing belt must have been changed 5) Notes or receipts of claimed repairs or maintenance. 6) 1st of 2nd owner car. I've narrowed down my car list in order of preference: Honda Civic Mazda Protege Saturn LS1 or LS2 Nissan Altima Hyundai Elantra Ford Focus ZX3 Any other input? |
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compression tester
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i see lots of civics on craigslist these days below your price range. i'd like to have working a/c tho.
i wouldn't worry about receipts, but if they're available...good. start the car cold and check for exhaust smoke, and then fluid leaks after fully warm. i believe the altima and focus might not yield in FE what your other choices would. |
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My dad had a devil of a time buying a MT Focus new, good luck finding one used. As far as Foci go, the 2nd generation models are better cars. My dad has a 2nd gen, my sister has a 1st gen. My sister's just does not drive as well as dad's (and both are dealer maintained in excellent condition) Dad's is better looking, more comfortable, quieter, etc. Its a nice little car. If a Focus in your price range comes up with the SYNC system on it, get it. You won't be sorry. Its a nice package.
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tall order for only 3k
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The craigslist listings in Dallas Ft. Worth area have quite a few of the vehicles I mentioned above for $3000 or less. It's just being patient in finding the hidden gem. |
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Don't be afraid of a honda in need of a little work. Most parts are cheap and a novice mechanic can work on it. I got my Civic VX for 1300. I've see these things for as much as 4500! Now, I had to replace the radiator, the master cylinder, and there is a good dent in the rear quarter. i also had to replace the rear taillight. Sounds like a lot, but basically I spent $400 and a good days work. I also serviced everything in my budget... Spark plugs, wires, fuel filter, intake cleaning, oil change, air filter etc... I inspected the t-belt, and it looked new. Who knows, I plan on changing it in about 40k just to make sure. I love the thing. it does need an o2 sensor though.. one on order. Good luck
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you know, I have had really good luck out of my cavalier. I will say that it may be that I got one of the good ones.
it is very similar to a saturn and though you don't see 40s, you will see mid to upper 30s in it. around my area they run $2-3k. |
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My nephew has a Cavalier, its a nice little car that's easy to work on, and parts are cheap.
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Get one with a timing chain, not a belt. Nissan & Toyota have been using chains for decades.
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"get one with a timing chain"
agreed. cavaliers have timing chains too. ****edit**** I will say I love my little yota and my parents have two of them (a corolla and camry). you might have pretty good luck out of an echo if you can find one. |
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I believe the Big 3 US makers have been using chains for decades also. I know GM does, possibly with some exceptions.
I thought the reason belts are used is that they are more efficient. That efficiency isn't worth it to me but it's something to consider. |
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I'm parting out my Honda Accord (2001 EX) with leather interior on ebay and craigslist.
I'm wondering what parts I should save that could be used on a Honda Civic? Leather seats? https://texarkana.craigslist.org/pts/2710661980.html https://texarkana.craigslist.org/pts/2710625359.html https://texarkana.craigslist.org/pts/2710631837.html |
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What about this one? |
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the fact that he has been running hot makes me wonder if he has overheated it already. he doesn't say mileage either. I would be I little concerned about that one but generally cavaliers are cheap.
mine was $2k with 95k on it. the A/C didn't really work worth a crap but I really didn't care. 7.5 years later and 223,000 on the clock tells me it was a good purchase. I would look around given what the guy says about it. makes you wonder what he is not saying. |
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here is more what I am talking about. it is from a dealer (which doesn't mean but so much) but it doesn't talk about any issues it has. obviously not good for you but at least you see what i am talking about.
https://greensboro.craigslist.org/ctd/2706853806.html |
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Being cheaper is likely the main reason, though. |
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I'm going to look at this Saturn in a couple of days:
Saturn LS1 I wrote the guy and asked him why it hasn't sold yet and is said he didn't know. I guess I will find out. I hear some can squeeze 40 mpg out his model. |
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what about the late ford escort and or ZX2 or contour? all can be had with well less than $3K, and manual trans in all.
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After reading owner reviews from Edmunds.com I'm not too thrilled with the escort and ZX2. If the Saturn doesn't thrill me either I'm probably going to bite the bullet and get a Toyotta Corolla.
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What do you think of the Chevrolet Prizm(2001-2002)? The reviews from Edmunds.com seem positive.
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Isn't the Prizm a badge-engineered Corolla (vs. the Matrix/Vibe that share a platform but aren't exactly the same car)? That would put it squarely in your already-decided Corolla approval category.
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lol my friends 98 corolla died in a glorious mess on the side in the interstate :D
and yes the prizim = corolla |
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i had a 2000 prizm and i miss it :(
yes, pop the hood and everything says "toyota." and yes, chain. i got over 40 mpg w/out a lot of effort...https://www.gassavers.org/garage/view/1239 btw, that VVTi motor is quite lively w/ the 5 speed! |
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1) well that's a good strait forward one, unless it's a $200 car with a dead auto, which you can have a manual put in all for less than $2800. 2) what about a 3 cylinder metro? 3) what if it has a newer engine and or transmission? 4) Why? If it needs a new one and you can put it in wile still in budget wouldn't that be better? 5) Many good car owners don't keep these records, and those who do will likely want more for their car. 6) Again, it would be nice, but shouldn't be a deal breaker. A compression test seems more important to me than any of these. If the engine is in bad shape no amounts of repair records or low mileage can help this. good luck, I hope you find a good one whatever it may be. |
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I found a 2002 Chevy Prizm 5 speed with 160,000 miles on it for $2300.00 asking price. It will need a catalytic converter but the pictures the guy sent shows the car to be in above average condition. Hopefully the tires will be in good shape.
He is the 2nd owner that bought it at 120,000 miles 4 years ago. I may meet him halfway (100 mile drive) to buy it because after extensive research this is the best deal I have found. I also found a 1994 Honda DeSol in real good shape (110,000 miles) for $2500.00 that I have yet to contact the owner. |
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After parting out my Honda Accord (+$1700 made) and buying the Mazda Protege (-$2300) and buying maintenance items, used wheels, TT&L (-$1000) the car has cost me $1600.00. |
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I'd go Cavalier, Saturn, Honda, or Nissan. My old Corolla electrically died. My Focus is a nightmare of non-stop oil leaks, water leaks, and electrical problems. The Prism is the same thing as a Corolla. My Mercury Topas was the same thing as an Escort, non-stop problems.
I myself am tired of the whole game, Im looking for an air cooled VW, with only a set of points and a carburetor to worry about. I'm so tired of standing in front of a modern car that wont run. I have been searchinhg for the perfect car for 30 years, still looking. |
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The actual efficiencies are about the same for both but the gains (from the car builders aspect) come from easier (read cheaper) packaging and some internal dampening (to keep weird harmonics out of the equation) for a belt over chain. Chains need a supply of lubricant and a sealed environment ; belts run dry and can run in free air but need some sort of cover for keeping people's fingers out of the danger zone. Belts can be contaminated by oils and fuels and can also take a "set" if they stay in one spot for along time although this usually vanishes with running. They are also more sensitive to temperature extremes Both require replacement but belts generally speaking more frequently than chains. Peter. |
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Thanks for clearing that up! Interesting.
The only question I have left: Quote:
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HolyCow,
There are a few makers requiring chains to be replaced I am aware of: Mercedes Benz on their older cars and at one point Citroen and Jaguar on the 12 cylinder cars. How many owners doing their own servicing actually followed that advice I have no idea. The Mercedes was an odd measuring system requiring the angle of degree of difference between the drive sprocket and the driven sprocket to be measured and if the specified measurement was exceeded then the chain should be changed. I am guessing this was to save having to remove and replace the chain unless it was necessary but I really don't know for certain. The Jaguar V12 had a really long chain which was , at the time of the engine's introduction ,the longest in the industry. that was fine but even a small amount of wear and the chain stretch was well beyond the adjuster's ability to cope and the chain needed replacing lest it take on a life of it's own and start jumping about. The chain went from the crank up to the overhead cam on one side , back to an idler in the valley of the vee then up to the cam on top of the other head and, finally back to the crank. Hardly surprising they had tensioner and adjuster issues. The Citroen was a real lash up with a cheap and nasty adjuster when was also intolerant of any amount of slackness in the chain. They usually just failed and took out the chain as well. No wonder so many makers went over to belts! Peter. |
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I had my son wash, claybar, wash again, polish and then wax (using a dual action orbital polisher) the Mazda.
I had him use 2000 grit sandpaper and remove most of the water spots on the miata wheels I had installed. He then polished the wheels. I had him then use some Meguiars interior cleaner and wipe down the insides of the car. I cleaned the engine compartment before I started all the maintenance work too. Now the car really shines. :) Last but not least I bought and installed two Deer Alerts to hopefully minimize another accident. |
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Yes, I agree and a wise statement to avoid future catastrophies.
Of course a good inspection of a car is a must to avoid being a money pit. I got lucky so far on this car. Usually a one owner is a good bet. |
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The SM-Citroen timing chains where an issue, they did fix it tho by late 1973, not many USDM cars saw the factory fix but got it later. Once done, the motors were good for many (100K +) miles. Otherwise, crap-out city. Did nothing to help Double Chevron at the end of the US sales. Late DS 4 bangers were OK on chains, some of the old TA three main motors did have issues, a friend had to replace one in his 1966 ID19. Toyota 22Rs, while bomb-proof, do have a chain fault, fail to adjust/re-tension and they would chew through the cover into the coolant and mix oil and coolant. The PRV V6 Volvo motor (Peugoet 604s and V6 505s never had this issue for whatever reason) was another chain eater, single row (if memory serves) fixed many a 760 and Delorean motor back in the day. ....the infamous USDM Mercedes M116 - 380 V8 with a single row chain for the US market was another chain eater. The fix was a dual row chain... |
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Spule4,
I often had the feeling it was some sort of weird harmonic resonance problem with some of those engines which was the base problem but I have NEVER heard ANY makers admit to such a thing...at least not in their own engines! The cutting down from the Maserati V8 to form the early Citroen SM V6 was a real tragedy. A definite silk purse into a sow's ear job that one was. Peter. |
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I was having a look recently at Honda's 1.3 engine for the Jazz (Fit I think in the US) and saw it had Morse chain drive not the usual roller chain Honda have used previously.
I was wondering of this was to take the additional load of the iVTEC cam phasing or possibly act as a form of internal damping? Maybe it just takes up less space and requires less material to house it? Just thinking out loud here. Peter. |
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