Pic of steering
 

Is this the rack end bushing???

I have a line in red pointing to it.

https://www.fuelly.com/attachments/fo...c36e9e3edb.jpg

looks like the outer tie-rod
 

looks like the outer tie-rod to me. the arrow points to the tie-rod boot.

nope
 

The rack end bushing is at the other end of that linkage supporting the end of the rack as it comes out of the rack tube. It should be under a long ribbed boot and have a joint on it like that one on the other end of the connecting rod you are pointing to.

oh, thanks, because I think
 

oh, thanks, because I think it needs to be replaced. I get heavy vibrations in the steering when I try to do some hard braking or even regular braking. My discs aren't warmed and my calipers are good and my pads are good.

humm
 

Jack up your front end and check for play in the wheels / steering - try to turn them left right with the other on the ground, also spin them and see if your tires are getting out of round - if they are you have disk problems with uneven drag making flat spots. If you jack up on wheel at a time you can check for play in each wheel. Also try braking in a turn and see if it is different turning left or right. Are you sure it is not the ABS kicking in? Last try lowering your tire pressure to normal pressure and try the brakes again.

Brake pads if not rotors
 

Bushings should last longer than 5-6 years, especially in SoCal. One question, how do you know it's not the rotors? I have chronic rotor problems on the TL -- I just had them turned to grind-out the high spots about 20K miles ago, and now their pulsing again. I don't know if there's enough left to grind down this next time, but with ABS, warped rotors signifcantly increase stopping distance, so it's not something to ignore. All 4 rotors probably should be replaced on mine.

Next (it's a long-shot), but the brake pads might be wearing in a wedge pattern, or are sliding back and forth within the caliper frame. Factory stock vehicles have one plunger to push the pad against the rotor, and can sometimes get off-center and wear funny (Brembos and lots of aftermarket brake systems have 2 plunger pots to even out the pressure) Lastly, if you have drum brakes in the rear, the shoes might need replacement or adjustment. Additionally, the drum itself can warp, creating the same pulsating within the brake pressure system (more rare).

RH77

I don't have ABS. The dealer
 

I don't have ABS. The dealer checked the whole brake system they couldn't find anything wrong. The pulsating and vibrations are felt in the steering so I think it's mostly the front.

hummm
 

yup spin them and check for an uneven drag also if it is the rotors it will pulse like crazy at high speed and really slow at low speeds. If it is the suspension it will pulse at the same rate if going fast or slow. If you can stick your head out the window and see the wheel when you brake you may see what is going on. Just don't side swipe any mail boxes or wire poles with your head or your passengers. It could be any joint in the suspension including the ball joints or struts including the tops - look for red dust also. Sometimes you will not feel the play with it jacked up so park one tire on sand and try wiggling the wheel. Also check for any clunking or play when turning the steering wheel side to side when stopped especially at the ends of travel left and right. You should see the rim moving and the side wall flex with the slightest of steering wheel movement. Last power steering problem? Brake with the engine off.

I had this exact same
 

I had this exact same problem on my 2001 Nissan Sentra. I think it's something wrong with Nissan personally. I only experienced it when I was going downhill and braking. I was usually going above 65mph when I did this.

I could not duplicate it on flat land. When I took it into the shop they also couldn't duplicate it because there were no hills within 20 miles of the shop. I decided to just forget it because I rarely went downhill anyway.

I also had the rotors checked, as well as the brake pads by the dealer. It also has this problem where the gear shifter would rattle. This went away after my 30,000 check up, but then started again about 400 miles later. it was so damn annoying.

As luck would have it, someone rear ended me on the I-15 going 60+mph. The estimate to fix it was $4000 and I owned $4000 on the car. I took the money, paid it off, and then sold it to a guy for $1600.

So Compaq, if you're lucky, you can get rear-ended and this whole mess will be over :)

Compaq - I had the same
 

Compaq -

I had the same shuddering problem but worse. Check that the bolts that hold your steering rack to the frame are tight - mine were completely missing when I first bought the car, and I was having serious steering issues including vibrations, loud knocking noise, horrible steering response, etc.