Removing the crankshaft pully... ARGH!
 

I just can't do it.

My new engine is sitting in my garage and I figured I should replace the timing belt and water pump before I throw it in my car.

The damn bolt holding the crankshaft pully on won't budge.

At first I stuck a prybar and a screwdriver in the hole to offer some sort of resistance. The end result was a bent screwdriver and prybar.

Today I hooked up the air tools to try to move the thing. Nothing.

Does anyone have a secret (maybe with pictures?) on how to get this thing to budge? My next plan is to just take it to a mechanic and pay them to do it for me.

It seems that someone here,
 

It seems that someone here, perhaps Dax?, mentioned something about sticking something in the teeth of the flywheel and getting a 3' or 4' prybar and doing a lot of jumping up and down.

pulley
 

My brother says that you need a 500-600 ft-lbs air impact wrench to crack it loose - for some reason the bolt seizes on the crank. This came up when I asked about my friends timing belt change.

With the air tools did you
 

With the air tools did you try all the following:

1. Crank the air pressure to about 120psi, this is probably 30psi over the rating on your gun, but it should take it.

2. Tighten, loosen, tighten, loosen... sometimes does the trick.

3. Are your air tools lubed? Seems to help out a little bit.

4. Are you using impact sockets? Normal sockets will not deliver as much torque to the bolt. (normal sockets flex more, thus absorbing some of the twisting force)

5. PB Blaster on the bolt

I hope these help!!

it once took an 11ft bar to
 

it once took an 11ft bar to break a honda pulley bolt loose...
9ft didn't work !!!

also a socket extension fits perfectly in the pulley hole and will not bend...however it can crack the lip of the block/oilpan

high tq impact wrench is recommended
followed by long *** breakerbar (may require welding...lollercopter)

went thru the same thing
 

went thru the same thing with my accord. ended up taking it to the garage and the mechanic used his (better) impact wrench to break the seal. he was nice about it though - just had me pull up to the bay and he got it through the access hole in the fender well and wouldn't take any money.

ARG
 

Ahhh professional courtesy is alive and well.

Right on Bunger. You need
 

Right on Bunger.

You need that 120psi.
You need decent impact sockets.
The impact wrench should be lubed well.
Try not to use extensions.
Then, Tighten, loosen, tighten, loosen. And stay flush dead on that bolt head so you transfer all that energy upon your nemesis.
Fun stuff:)

Re: With the air tools did you
 

The gun is rated at 90psi, so I did stop at 80. I'll try cranking it up to 120 tomorrow.

Tried this a little bit, but not too much. WIll try more with the 120psi tomorrow.
Air tools are fairly new, only been used twice. I'll lube it up though for good measure.

Using an impact socket, yes.

I did this before the impact gun.

I'll be trying this again tomorrow, and then I'll be taking it to the shop down the street from me. Do you think I can lift a motor into my trunk? It doesn't seem that heavy.

BTW, does anyone know what I torque this bolt to once I'm done changing the timing belt?

Re: With the air tools did you
 

I've gone as high as 150 psi before... dunno how good that is for the hammers, but I've had the same tools for 6 years now, and they are still working ok. =)

Are you lifting the entire motor or just a short block? The entire thing can be a bit much for a single person.

119 ft/lbs on the crank pulley bolt.