DIY: LEDs (Part I)
See here: https://crxmpg.com/domelight.html
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I'll fix this tomorrow, my
I'll fix this tomorrow, my pictures are wigging out. Suffice it to say it looks awesome.
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why not just buy a special
why not just buy a special LED made for dome lights. It has like 9 LEDS. All you have to do is just switch it with the bulb. Also going with more LED's will waste more power. When I change from a bulb to an LED I try to use the fewest number of LED's while maintaining the same brightness or better brightness than the original bulb.
Going crazy with LED's will give you almost no difference than the original bulbs. Same thing with using resistors on a LED turn light. No point in using the same amount of power if you're switching to LED's. I got myself a grounding kit for my engine bay and switched to LED's for the rear brake lights(all of them). My lights are brighter, my car doesn't moan anymore when it tries to start, it starts better, and probably other things I haven't noticed. I'm not being harsh, I'm just saying if you want fuel economy you got to cut out the bling. |
Re: why not just buy a special
SVOboy - Nicely done old chap. Where did you get the bread-board and components, Radio Shack? Also do you have basic schematics for DIY'rs? It sounds like a fun mod. I really want to do it to my turns and brake lights, if they're bright enough. With a large array, I think the power of numbers might be worth looking into.
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As for the engine bay grounding -- I did this on my EVO and frankly didn't notice a thing. Now on older cars with deteriorating wiring and connections, a grounding kit might be a good idea to boost current flow. Otherwise, that's more bling. |
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This is in fact a good DIY,
This is in fact a good DIY, but I would of gone with less LED's. Everything I bought have resistors too but the less LED's the less energy you waste.
As you know rh77 my car is not new. It's 7.5 years old. And you also know that nissan is not that good at completly getting the job done. |
I used a voltage regulator chip when I did something similar to this. Will see if I can find it and the diagrams for it. It was cheap, used little power, and kept the voltage under control to protect the LEDs.
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Please do so, sir, I'm going to be doing the rest of my lights at some point in time, and I'd like a better way to have the LEDs set up to prevent from overloading.
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Hello -
Here's something that might serve as spare parts : https://www.geeks.com/details.asp?inv...-LIGHT&cpc=SCH Please note that I am NOT affiliated with geeks.com in any way (except for being a geek). CarloSW2 |
FWIW, I put LEDS in my taillights. I put one LED in and compared it with the old incandesant, the LED was very dim. I am going to take it out and put the incandesant back, it seemed unsafe to me.
Peter |
You need to put more than one LED in to replace the old bulb.
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As an example of some of the brighter LEDs, some "Luxeon" LEDs (when combined with a proper driver circuit for the LED) are very bright. Not only are my tail/brake lights SINGLE (Luxeon) LED modules (I took the "easy approach" of buying premade "bulb replacement" modules that already had the LED and driver circuit built in), but those single LED modules are BRIGHTER than the stock bulbs they replace. And I even use single LED modules as replacements for my "backup lights" (yes, a properly built "high end" single LED module really is that bright). So I know it can be done with the proper LEDs. Of course, if someone just buys the cheap LEDs in bulk, than multiple LEDs will have to be used to get enough light. But with the proper LEDs, it really is quite possible to get more than enough light for a tail light, using only a single LED). |
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