cfg83: If I kill this car, then it's off to the new car lot for me. I don't have the skills to fix it.
Does this mean you think Engine Off Coasting would ruin your car?? |
CO ZX2 -
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CarloSW2 |
Carlo, I am not chastising you or anyone else. I am just trying to help those who seem to be interested in FE. In my opinion and experience, I consider the strain on a transmission to be negligible compared with coasting in gear. Either way you are feeding the power backwards from the wheels to the engine. Engine off you are not feeding power backwards except at the instant of bump start.
For a while I have been bump starting in 4th gear below 40 MPH. I do not bump start below 25-30 MPH very often. Real slow bumps is where the jerking happens. A while back I read in a GS post, that Dan Krouse on his commute, had his engine running 34% of the total time. I have not measured my own % but would not doubt that it is in the same area. Remember, when the engine is off, you are using no fuel. |
CFG83: Their is some difficulty in answering your questions, for several reasons, none of which have diddly to do with you knowing or not knowing anything about cars. I think you'd find that most the people on here know something, largely because their are a lot of things that just don't seem to get done like you want, unless you do them.
As far as the kill switch, it's use, it's effectiveness and so forth, a lot of that is related to the car you are driving. For example, I am driving an 89 Honda Wagon, which is basically a DX in a box. I put a kill switch in, but I quit using it, for several reasons. Primarily, for me, it came down to the fact that if you turn off the engine, the oil pump is no longer pumping, and consequently each time you restart, you have a period of time when the engine is turning with little or no oil pressure. I hate working on my car, consequently the savings which I was getting was not worth it, IMO, in relation to the potential wear and tear. Added to this, a restart puts an additional requirement on either the starter, or on the clutch/flywheel. In either case, same, same, no likey unnecessary repair. Finally, on my Civic, I would always get a CEL whenever I killed the engine, irrespective of how I did it and I would have to turn the key off, then back on and it just got to be a potential distraction issue. Also, with regard to Oxygen sensor's, I have a 4 wire sensor, which I wired in so I could monitor the voltage. What I discovered was that whenever the throttle is closed, the fuel shuts off as long as my rpm is over 1250 rpm. Consequently, most of the time, my fuel would have been shutting off, anyway. Regarding O2 sensors, a 1 wire and 4 wire unit both are narrow band sensors. They both measure the same thing and are designed around 14.7 to 1 as an optimum air fuel ratio. They typically are utilized by the ecu to control the fuel by putting in a little more, until the voltage goes up and then putting in a little less until the voltage from the sensor goes back down. A wide range sensor is typically 5 wire, and can sense a much leaner fuel condition and report it to the ecu. However, the ecu has to be one programmed for the wide range sensor. Up until recently, the 5 wire unit's were used primarily for ecu tuning and in Honda Civic VX's. Consequently they have not been in great supply and therefor were significantly more costly. If you have a car that requires one, it probably is something which will get better mileage. If you don't, you can theoretically make the changes to accomodate one, but unless your into twiddling and fiddeling, it isn't probably something you would want to do. If you have any questions, or you decide you want to get your hands a bit dirty, just give a shout. In CA., you can normally still manage to work on your car, if you have to. However, the cold winds which we've had make it pretty miserable, recently. |
CFG83: the kill switch I imagined (and some use) is a momentary contact, press it and the engine dies. release it and you have to spin the engine up again via starter if stopped or bump start if moving, or if you never took it out of gear it will have powr again.
re trans wear, if your car is the sort that is towable behind an RV then no worries. If not then still probably no worries, but not a guarantee. This mostly applies to automatics but I think some manuals (i.e. old volkswagens) wont move the tranny oil to all the right places without the input shaft turning and those spots wont get as much lube as normal. |
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Gary -
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Honda ECU Programming Rule: closed = 0 idle = 1250 if (( throttle = closed) and ( RPMs > idle)) then fuelInjection = 0 Quote:
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CarloSW2 |
skewbe -
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CarloSW2 |
CO ZX2 -
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- Relatively flat road that I know - No one following me - 40 to 45 MPH speed limit - Spedometer usually at 40 to 45 MPH - Key off, wait 1 second, key on (or kill switch if installed) - Coast down to 30 MPH - Bump start in 5th gear If I tap the flywheel just right and push the clutch pedal back down real fast, I don't even feel the bump. Quote:
CarloSW2 |
ok, starting on the kill switch.
4 Attachment(s)
Here's one idea for a kill switch refinement.
I was thinking of locations for the switch and decided the index finger on the shifter hand was best. It should be super easy to get to, like easy enough to use even during shifting or during engine braking (according to my scangauge the car is still using fuel while decelerating in gear), and especially coming up on stoplights/etc. The wires are hooked up to the "Normally Closed" part of the switch and will be run down the boot, under the counsel, and through the firewall and in series w/the injector. Hope the switch can handle the current. Now only if my urethane glue job would hurry up and dry :) https://www.gassavers.org/attachment....4&d=1169254223 https://www.gassavers.org/attachment....5&d=1169254241 |
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