Jdm Stabilizer Charging System
 

What in layman's terms does this thing do?

https://cgi.ebay.com/JDM-STABILIZER-C...QQcmdZViewItem

It would seem possible a small gain could be seen when using AC and electric power steering with that unit. Especially at idle and when coasting.

It's not that big. Can it really be much more than a capacitor noise filter and maybe a Zener clamp to clip off high V spikes?

It's effectiveness has to vary inversely with the amount of continuous current being drawn from the battery. High end power amps use what's called a stiffening cap to prevent transient voltage dips at the amp itself. Is it like that?

Hello -

I got one from ebay for about $24 but never installed it. Here is a Cadillac version for bucko bucks :

https://www.intakeone.com/Denso/SunHVSeco.htm

It's from Japan, so it's got to be fuel efficient, right?!?!?!?

I showed my cheapy version to my Electrical Engineer co-worker and he said it was probably just a big fat car-sized capacitor.

The instructions warned me that if I didn't get the positive/negative right, it could burn out my electrical system. Not fun.

I will put it on at a later time, but not right now.

CarloSW2

So it probably does have some kind of spike clipper to limit the voltage to between 0V and 12V DC. In that case, it would be extremely directional (+ vs. -).

Probably just a big Capacitor with low internal resistance that would make up for any poor battery connection and battery internal resistance. I have seen my alarm system and Radio/CD as well as the Scangauge get glitched when starting the engine in my xB. Looking at the positive terminal of the battery I can see why . . . I have no idea what is hanging off of it because it is in a position where it can't be viewed easily and the cover will not pop off. It may be a termination of several wires or a fuse holder for the car accessory load. In either case a good capacitor will help stabilize the voltage in a car and reduce noise and current surges.

jangeo was the closest. it stabilizes the voltage in the now this really only isnt a problem unless there is something creating electrical noise and current surges that trip up the ignition.

so what causes these problems? from my experience: big turbos on hondas. most cars have these built in. i know my car does, but if i were to put a sc61 turbo on an integra motor and put it in my car then it would probably max out my 'stabilizer' and an aftermarket one would be needed to help the car idle correctly and probably gain some efficiency strictly through smoothness in the ignition.

jangeo got it. it cuts out electrical noise. but its really not necissary, a lot of cars have these built in. mine does.

however if i were to put an sc61 (big turbo) on an integra motor and put it in my car it would create a lot of electrical noise and the honda unit wouldnt be able to keep up.

The battery is really not an ideal power source when it comes to rapid transidents as the chemical reaction producing the power doesn't react that quickly. Audio amplifiers that have big bass pulses can produce drops in the power wires going to the radio amp - stiffner caps can be purchased with a 15 volt rating in the 120,000uf capacity cheep on the surplus market that are about the size of a big fist. Same thing happens in the 100amp controllers that I run in my scooter but it operates at 30-40khz so there are 3-18,000uf 63 volt low esr caps in parallel on the input terminals.

Here are pictures of my cheapo version :

https://home.earthlink.net/~cfg83/gas...pacitor_00.jpg

https://home.earthlink.net/~cfg83/gas...pacitor_01.jpg

https://home.earthlink.net/~cfg83/gas...structions.jpg

One reason why I didn't install it is that I tried to pry off it's side panel to see what was inside. I never got past plasti-solid red goop, so I just siliconed it back together. I think it will still work. It has a warning about avoiding humidity for long-term lifespan. What would that mean? I guess I should put it near something hot in the engine bay.

CarloSW2

DO they give you any proceedure about connecting it - normally a light bulb in series for the initial charging would be suggested to eliminate the initial current surge which can damage internal components. ON my scooter caps I charge them up to as much as 60 volts so needless to say I have some high wattage resistors to charge them up or I connect a 12 volt brake light bulb to each 12 volt battery tap to bring it up to full voltage one battery at a time.

That crummy piece of paper is all I got (el cheapo). Sorry it's not too readable, but I didn't want to make the image too big for webpage downloading. It just says RED wire to + and Blue wire to - battery terminal. So your saying I need to charge it up? I don't really understand your description of safe installation using the brake light bulbs. Are you saying you have 2 batteries or you are attaching to the positive and negative lead of one battery?

One thing I should have mentioned is that I purchased it with a set of grounding wires (another $24). There are NO instructions for attaching those, but could they be part of the "system" of installation, where they help to protect the gizmo and the battery and the car electrical system? I say no because you can purchase both of these things individually elsewhere.

Now I'm scared to attach it (again) :eek: .

Cautious CarloSW2

You connect the negative to the negative and the light bulb between the positive and the battery positive and you should see the bulb flash for a fraction of a second and then go dim. That charges the Caps in the unit with the 12 volts from the battery instead of a big spark and current surge if you connected it directly to the battery. This would result in a momentary short across the battery and end up spiking your entier electrical system whic would not be good for it.

You would connect the bulb brass base to the units positive wire holding it in your fingers and the bottom contact of the bulb will connect to the battery positive until the light goes out. Then connect the wire to the positive right away before the unit can self discharge. If the unit is shorted the bulb will stay on bright and burn your hands if you are not careful. If that happens then don't connect to the battery. If it happens to contain a set of UltraCaps it may take a few minutes for the bulb to go out.

JanGeo -

Thank you very much. Would it be even safer to do this with the battery disconnected from the electrical system?

I wonder if they make "super safe batteries" that already have this stuff built-in.

CarloSW2

Most batteries are "OK" to run most regular system loads but a little help can improve things sometimes. Disconnecting the battery from the rest of the car will end up resetting things like the radio antitheft and maybe the ECU - not really recomended if you don't have to. Best to just charge it up like I suggested. Or connect to a spare car battery and see what happens.

Definately unhook the battery. Safety first!

I have build my onw stabilizers, they are only made with few capacitors,
it really works with my Nissan TIIDA/Versa, which indeed unsing electric
steering.It was 9.5km/L, now 11km/L city driving.

Let's DIY one, it's easy and cheap, if you can do soldering.
https://www7.plala.or.jp/soaristo/pag...enser_tune.htm

JanGeo -

Thanks for the tips, I finally got around to installing this gizmo :

Ziptied On :
Attachment 532

Wiring to Battery :
Attachment 533

Before installing it, my Dad helped me to test to make sure that it was wired correctly (it is an el-cheapo, after all). He attached one of those big 6 volt batteries to it to see if it would hold a charge correctly and it did.

I don't think it will do anything for FE, but if it is good to my battery, then that will be a plus. To do a real test, I think I would need to "data log" the electrical system to see if the power spikes are being reduced. The closest I can get to testing it is to run the power windows up and down and watch to see how much the instrument cluster backlight dims, but that is way too subjective.

CarloSW2