Why doesn't someone with a VX rig up a lean burn LED or something on the dash so that you know when lean burn is kicking in. Then you could tell for sure if it was lean burn that was causing the issues.

See this thread HERE.

I replaced my PCV "valve" (no innerds) with one that had the valve innerds when I got the car, and just thought that someone had done something funny with the whole thing, and then I thought it was a screw up when I got what must have been the right part from the dealer... because the PCV valve they sold me was empty... but I just checked part numbers, and the all modles use the same part number as the VX, except the CX... but the shop manual explanes in great detail how to test it for proper operation... so I'm a little confused why the repair manual tells you to exspect a PCV valve to be there, when it's not there???

Why is the cx different I wonder...mehbe this affects my random idle issue...

I just checked on my Honda E-catalog (the same software the dealer uses) and got different numbers for the VX/CX model as compared to the rest of the models.

VX/CX = PCV 17130-P07-A02 (shown to be used on all CX/VX model civics 92-95) The rest = 171300-PM6-003 (all models except CX/VX)

Usually Honda has the parts grouped by ECU ie VX=P07 and the correct corresponding parts have that in the middle of the part number. So it seems that VX and CX share the same PCV valve.

I'm interested to see the part numbers that were on teh bag that you got from the dealer Ryland.

Side note: Maybe we should change the title of this thread to "General VX/CX discussion"? So we stop thread-jacking, lol. ;)

It wouldn't be too hard to rig up a simple voltage comparator circuit to light up an LED when the signal from the O2 goes higher than the reference signal. hmm, but for me, it's just easier to hook up a DVM. Hmm, Tech edge has a display that can read a LAF as well, in fact the controller kit they used to sell has a heater controller circuit as well. And the cool part...the display shows A/F ratio or voltage depending on how you set it up during assembly.

Wide band display HERE

Tech edge site HERE

This company actually uses the VX L1H1 sensor in it's first version of DIY kit.

I'm not sure if I still have the bag or not, because I didn't end up useing the part that they sold me as it wasn't a pcv valve, and I thought that I needed a pcv valve and now that I think about it, I might not have even accepted the part because it didn't look like something I could use, but I'll take a look around for it.

well i checked the o2 and i think it may be in good working order still. now what? i only got about 41 mpg on the last fillup and thats with 60mph top speed, sub 2000rpm shifts and 40psi in the tires

could it be that the tires the prev. owner put on(non - LRR) would cause that drastic of a decrease in mpg? i've found a place that sells the vredestein quatrac2 LRR tires in the stock tiresize, 4 for 324$ shipped, im tempted just to do it

any other thoughts of things i could check for mpg issues? so far i've tuned it up(plugs, wires, distr. cap and rotor, filters, oil, checked o2 and its ok), any help would be appreciated, thanks

Did you verify that your actual mileage matches that indicated on your odometer? You never know...maybe your getting better FE than you think.

You didn't mention checking valve lash or timing either.

-- Scott

[QUOTE=NickF829]well i checked the o2 and i think it may be in good working order still. now what?

NickF829; what did you do to check the O2 sensor. I agree that you still seem to have something not working properly. However, I don't think it's your tire's. If you want to minimize them, as a source of problem, run the pressure up to 55 lbs. I've been running 55 lbs for about 6 month's and other than a little bumpier ride, the car roll's significantly better.

TomO posted a thread on how to measure the O2 sensor, on the VX. If you follow his direction, you should be able to see if the sensor is working all of the way, in both directions. On a lean burn sensor, they use a reference voltage, which is different for different manufacturers of car's. However the way it's described in the writeup, you are using the reference voltage as the negative lead for the voltmeter, so all of your voltages will be referenced to 0 volt's.:o