Worn or used tires better for mileage?
A long time a go, I owned a Mercury Lynx. It got decent mileage which improved over time. But when I replaced worn tires, the mileage got worse immediately. Here's a website explaining that old tires give better mileage.
https://www.goodyear.com/truck/whatsn...ckFactors.html Question: I'm considering changing from 265/75-16 to 235/85-16, which are narrower. This meant there will be less tread to deform and use fuel. However, will less tread deform more, ofsetting the FE gain??? In other words, will the narrow tread contibute little to LRR? |
it is a narrower tire then it will help fe
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If we're not talking about some kind of truck that needs a huge tire to bear the weight, switching to a narrower tire should be an improvement. The most efficient cars in the world use very narrow tires, though they are incredibly light. Just go with a good LRR tire (Michelin Energy MXV4+ are great) and you will be in good shape after a couple thousand miles to let them wear in.
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observe the make and model of 'the blue beast'. i dont know if they make lrr tires for it.
but the bottom line is that usually the narrower the lower the rolling resistance. go as narrow as you can while keeping it safe. would the 235/85 still be safe for the towing you do? |
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theclencher -
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Back to the drawing board, CarloSW2 |
Well where snow and bicycles are concerned, I was shown looong ago that those wide beach/"mountain" tires have a much harder time cutting through a couple inches of snow than a thin 10 speed tire.
But generally speaking, the narrower the tire: the less wind resistance, the more stiffer sidewalls help lrr, the more even the tread wear, the less snow/mud/water (or baby innards if you are toecutter) they have to displace. |
theclencher -
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For example, I would like to be able to see all of the tires on all of the Saturns in order to be able to make an informed judgement. One stop shopping for tires and other mods, so to speak. This would (obviously) all be voluntary input. Maybe what I really want is alot of input entries in the Garage that are not required input, but available for the GasSaver to input. This could be akin to 2 modes. The "basic Garage" is the variable data that is already seen in the Garage. The same car could also have an "Advanced Garage" input form that has all sorts of gruesome details regarding tires, their PSI, and their perceived benefit/detraction to FE. Quote:
Maybe a used-tire co-op would be in order. The co-op would start with a same make/model set of 4 tires with unequal tread wear. The co-op would "true" them to be the same. Arghhhhh, too much effort. I don't want to even think about going that route. Orrrr, do used tire shops already exist???? My pre-GasSaver brainpan is trained to want to buy "really good safe tires" that are rated for alot of miles. But in the gas-saving world, that's alot of sunken-cost that you are stuck with until the tires reach, what, maybe 1/2 way into their tread life? If the tires are dogs, then you are stuck with them for 40K+ miles. My Gas-Saver tire formula currently juggles these variables ranked in order of importance : 1 - PSI : Shoot for 50+ in order to be able to experiment safely. 2 - Rolling Resistance : Low as possible but still safe. In LA a super-grip tire is not needed because of all the sunny dry days we have. 3 - Size : At or above OEM spec. A larger tire should not be a wider tire. 4 - Weight : Lower than OEM. 5 - Tread Life : leaning toward low in order to mitigate "dog tire" syndrome. 6 - Price : Leaning toward < $70 per tire. But maybe this is stating the obvious :confused: ?!?!? Quote:
CarloSW2 |
theclencher -
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Hmmmmm, I can't remember where I bought new tires for my CRX. Now I want to know (for no good reason, I just want to). It would behoove me to look around for some old hoofs. CarloSW2 |
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to clarify, the difference between a 195/60 and a 185/65 can easily be lost between brands and styles. however, the chances of any 265/75 tire having lower resistance than a 235/85 tire are pretty slim at equal pressures. |
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