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The problem is that I live in Florida. The state of Florida doesn't believe in things such as emissions, so I have to do what I do based on what will most likely lower my emissions since I have no way of testing affordably. I would really ideally like to even outdo Japan's emission requirements.

repete86 -

Quote:

Originally Posted by repete86 (Post 42007)

.... Wait, now I understand. You have no rules ....

Florida Smog & Emission Checks
https://www.dmv.org/fl-florida/smog-check.php

Quote:

As of July 1, 2000, the State of Florida abolished the auto emissions test requirement for all vehicles throughout the state. The smog-tackling program only lasted nine years, and had often been a fiercely political issue for many Florida residents and legislators. Several counties allegedly registered air clean enough to make the tests obsolete, but even the counties with continuing poor air quality are looking for alternate ways to breathe easy again.

That's not to say that Florida doesn't care about clean air; in fact, the state is rewarding those people who purchase automobiles that are EPA-certified as Inherently Low Emission Vehicles (ILEV), including hybrids. All ILEV drivers are eligible to drive in a High Occupancy Vehicle lane at any time, regardless of how many people are riding in the car. Check this list to see if your vehicle qualifies.

If it does, fill out the Application for HOV Decal to receive a sticker for your car. Submit the completed application to your local county Tax Collector's office. The fee is $5 and the decal must be renewed annually.

If I were in your situation, I would take advantage of Florida and just get it to work first. I checked and Georgia has emissions requirements. Eventually you can put the car on a dyno over there.

From my POV, the idea is to in increase MPG "within the rules" of emissions that everyone else has to comply with. You've been given a no-rules barred experimental lab. Go for it!!!!!

Here's Georgia emissions requirements :

Georgia Smog & Emission Checks
https://www.dmv.org/ga-georgia/smog-check.php

Quote:

All gasoline-powered passenger cars and light trucks 1982 and newer in the following Georgia counties must pass an emission inspection before being issued license plates:

* Cherokee
* Clayton
* Cobb
* Coweta
* DeKalb
* Douglas
* Fayette
* Forsyth
* Fulton
* Gwinnett
* Henry
* Paulding
* Rockdale

Motorcycles, RVs, and motor homes do not require emissions testing.

The cost of emission testing varies from $10 to $25, depending on location.

If your vehicle does not pass the test, you will be required to make the necessary repairs and will be given one free retest within 30 days of the original test.

CarloSW2

I think I will. Any ideas for countering the NOx emissions being created by the resistor mod though? I'm thinking that if I add a second, or maybe even two more catalytic converters behind the first one that I might be able to counter them at least partially. Again, I know very little about the mechanics of a car. Does this make sense, or am I way off?

repete86 -

Quote:

Originally Posted by repete86 (Post 42029)

I don't know how to reduce NOx. If I were you and I had access to a dyno, I would keep putting in resistors until I found the one that would fail emissions. Then, I would use the previous resistor that still passed emissions. In this way you would be pushing the envelope but still "playing by the rules".

I'm also not a mechanic. Other people have asked about multiple catalytic converters, so maybe someone else will pipe up on this.

Question : Would a secondary catalytic converter designed for a diesel reduce lean-burn NOx?????

The following is NOT an advocacy for the gizmo I am evaluating, but I do like the analysis that is presented because it first talks about stock engine emissions behavior :

Emissions Analysis With Hydrogen Boost
https://www.hydrogen-boost.com/August%202006.html

In the above article, a "steady-throttle" is one key to low emissions in all cars. I think this would be true in the lean-burn case as well. As a gentle GasSaver driver, you may already be emphasizing behavior that reduces your emissions.

Here is something else on cat-cons. I think this is a good place to find "google phrases" to look elsewhere on the net :

How Catalytic Converters Work
https://auto.howstuffworks.com/catalytic-converter.htm

CarloSW2

For a Saturn, you can go as low as 110 ohms before the ECU freaks out and throws a code. I have tried 105 ohms and got a code. At 110 ohms, the IAT shows 247F. With the cold weather, I have went up to 220 ohms. This is ~200F.

You guys should be using a potentiometer instead of fixed resistors that way you can just dial in the value you want.

JanGeo-

Quote:

Originally Posted by JanGeo (Post 42042)

You guys should be using a potentiometer instead of fixed resistors that way you can just dial in the value you want.

Yes, that's a good idea too, but I don't think the IAT sensors work on a linear scale. Here is an example of the temperature graph for my Saturn (please ignore the red lines and circles) :

https://home.earthlink.net/~cfg83/gas...t_vs_ohms2.jpg

In the above example, in order to "dial in" IAT temperatures above 100 degrees, I would need a potentiometer that has a range of 63 (284 degrees F) to 1700 Ohms (100 degrees F). Do potentiometers come in this range? I would think that a 0-1500 ohm potentiometer would have "low granularity" at the bottom end of the dial.

CarloSW2

I tried a potentiometer when I first started messing with the IAT mod. It was difficult to control down near the bottom of the range; very jumpy.

diamondlarry -

Quote:

Originally Posted by diamondlarry (Post 42047)

I tried a potentiometer when I first started messing with the IAT mod. It was difficult to control down near the bottom of the range; very jumpy.

That's why I was imagining a dial that "clicked" into each position. I am imagining in my head a dial on the cockpit that had an OFF position and then X number of R(esistor) positions. In the off position, the real IAT input would go to the ECU/PCM. In the other R positions, you could have a breadboard with different (and changeable!!!) resistors of your choice. That way, there would be no "jumpiness", but you would still have control over the range of IAT temperatures.

Hrmmmm, sounds like a kid's electronic project to me. Where's my crystal radio kit!?!?!?!?!?!?

CarloSW2

Quote:

Originally Posted by cfg83 (Post 42053)

diamondlarry -

That's why I was imagining a dial that "clicked" into each position. I am imagining in my head a dial on the cockpit that had an OFF position and then X number of R(esistor) positions. In the off position, the real IAT input would go to the ECU/PCM. In the other R positions, you could have a breadboard with different (and changeable!!!) resistors of your choice. That way, there would be no "jumpiness", but you would still have control over the range of IAT temperatures.

Hrmmmm, sounds like a kid's electronic project to me. Where's my crystal radio kit!?!?!?!?!?!?

CarloSW2

I think you may be on to something. A different value for different stages of engine warmness.