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Golf3r -
Also, if you *don't* have a sunroof, you may still have the fuse for it. I found this to be true on my SW2. It is located on the front passenger side of the radio/AC console, behind the vertical plastic panel that you can just pull off. On the back of the plastic panel, there is a map of what the fuses are for. On my SW2, it's a 15 AMP blue fuse on the top row. It is *only* active when the ignition is turned on. I intend to try to use this as a "no splice" way of using my electrical system. Diamondlarry, what do you think? CarloSW2 |
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Golf3r -
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https://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=071-585 Attachment 338 It plugs right in to the same place that your fuse is. Also, you have it even better because in the same location, you ALSO have a fuse for Cruise control! You can use the power that was intended for the Saturn cruise control. Here is how I think it would connect : Cruise control fuse location -> Mini Add-A-Circuit -> power to your after-market cruise control -> connection to ground. I have cruise control so it didn't occur to me that this would be available. Question for RH77 : On your cruise control, didn't you midify it so that it was "smart" FE-wise? Didn't you limit the maximum throttle that cruise control could go so that the car would not try to add power going uphill? I am not car-savvy (but I do lots of homework), so I would appreciate someone else chiming in to correct any errors I may be making. CarloSW2 |
There are cheaper (few cent each) fuse bridges if you want to look around for them on ebay or something.
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Ah yes, the CCTLS
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The "CCTLS": Cruise-Control Throttle-Limiting System. The cruise control - control box is essentially an electric motor attached to a rotating cog attached to the throttle cable to pull it and open the throttle. I governed how far the cog rotates by wedging 2 allen-wrenches in the path of the cog and secured it with some zip-ties. I found the allen wrenches allowed the choice of different sizes down to the millimeter to limit the throttle position to an exact limit -- in my case 21% via the ScanGauge. Faults: The CC notices that it can't function properly, usually on the first set attempt and cuts the system and cannot be re-set. If the switch is turned off and on, it can be reset, and on the second try -- it will generally catch. If it catches, it holds >90% of the time. Operation: It will hold a thottle position first, then if the set-speed is reached, downhill or level, the speed backs-off the throttle. Uphill, it will hold the throttle and brush-off speed instead of eating-up FE. So far it works well in light traffic, long distance situations. It helps with the psychological aspect of inadvertently holding a hill at speed or even accelerating with traffic. On mine, I'll get up to 5-over the limit and set it (5+ is so it doesn't engine-brake on the downhills so much). If you let it do what it wants, you can end up going 55 in a 70 uphill, but on level/downhill it picks back up, for example. Definitely helps with FE on an automatic basis. |
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