Honda Beat update...
Well, I kind of dropped out of the mainstream posting on this board, but I still lurk daily. :)
Everything's been going pretty good with the Beat - I still love it. STILL waiting on one last document to come from Japan so I can get it registered. I still take it out once in a while with the Civic's tag on it (shame on me). A common problem with Beats is that the six canister capacitors on the ECU's PCB wear out over time. This is due to engine heat and to natural aging. If you don't catch them in time, they swell and burst, releasing their highly corrosive electrolyte onto the PCB and causing lots of problems. There are all sorts of gadgets to help prolong the life of them - from thermal insulation blankets to put between the ECU and firewall to wiring harness extensions so you can relocate the ECU away from the firewall. I finally got around to pulling my ECU and main relay to check them. The main relay has the same issues as those on Civics - cracked solder joints. My main relay is perfectly fine, but two of my capacitors have leaked. As I understand it, the capacitors work mostly with the fuel control circuit, and are the cause of poor efficiency and poor performance. When I get back from camping this weekend, I'm going to remove the capacitors and try my best to clean up the board. If the neighboring resistors and diodes look to be corroded enough for concern, I'll replace them as well. I'm going to be using a higher temperature rated capacitor to help alleviate this problem. As I understand it, I'll be great for another 10ish years after this, which is the average life of these capacitors. Hopefully I'll notice an improvement in performance and efficiency after this. Pictures of the ECU and the two leaky capacitors: https://www.u-ukhbc.co.uk/vbb/attachm...4&d=1177089292 https://www.u-ukhbc.co.uk/vbb/attachm...5&d=1177089301 https://www.u-ukhbc.co.uk/vbb/attachm...6&d=1177089308 https://www.u-ukhbc.co.uk/vbb/attachm...7&d=1177089318 |
Dang electronicks! Everything should just be carburetted anyway. :)
Nice to read an update. Keep 'em coming. |
unfortunately, leaking of the electrolyte is a normal failure mode for electrolytic capacitors. After several years, this can occur. It doesn't really have to do with the voltage rating, but it couldn't hurt to try to put 50V 33uF caps as replacements if they will fit (they are bigger). I'd do what you plan, clean up the board as best as possible and replace the corroded/damaged components. You probably don't need me to say this, but ensure you get the polatiry correct on the new capacitors.
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Well, hope things work out for you after the replacement, and don't forget, if you need anything for the beat while I'm in japan, I'll hook you up.
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Wow thats a nice car. How much did everything run you to get it to the states?
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would it be possible to solder wires to where the caps are and relocate them, in case they ever burst again? or is it important that they stay on the board?
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In other news, I got the rear window replaced by an automotive upholstery shop - I can't wait to put it back on the car.
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Longer leads on the cap would help it cool better and remove it from the board should they leak again. Higher voltage is not needed since the board probably has at most 14 volts on it. Don't make the leads too long or else other problems with its operation will be affected - leads become inductors and then the cap will not be filtering the noise spikes that it is intended to be doing on the board. Adding some aluminum reflective 1/2 inch insulation inside the engine compartment firewall would keep the heat out and check the water flowing through the heater core. I know on my xB the radio gets really hot and tends to act up with the heater on as the entire dash gets warm.
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