33.87 MPG fill
 

I filled up the van today and said what the hell I'm gonna take it on a small trip on the highway. I used the engine on coast technique (Drive to Neutral) going from 65-55mph and some times 65-50mph on the way there, and cruise control at 60mph on the way back. Since the SG2 was pretty accurate the last fill, (5.4 gallons used according to SG2) (5.539 actual), I wanted to see what the highway results would be. The SG2 reported the tank at 28.92mpg with 1.2 gallons used. I used the exact same pump facing the same direction, and filled up with .977 gallons going 33.1 miles. This netted a 33.87 fill. I know this is a really short distance to fill up, but I was feeling good about the MPG at the time. Is the 33.87MPG beliveable or did I have fill error?

Instant Gratification fill up ! Is it legit ? yes. Is it real world ? not really . It does give you some incentive to really fixate on duplicating that number though ...which can lead to hitting that FE # 'real world' .

Gratz! on the mpg. I think you can get it there and more .

My problem is that I don't get to jump on the highway very often so I've been getting stuck with 20mpg fills going back and forth to work.

Well that is true - no fault on your part either . The almost 34 mpg fill is an inspiration for you to try for ! Don't let all in town driving reduce you to saying "I'll *only* get 20-ish fills" ...you can get bigger numbers -it's just harder because the 'mile window ' is limited . Look at your gas log . When you do have the opportunity ,the numbers go up into the mid to upper 20's . Keep at it and those mids will be more often with scatterings going up . You are doing well !! :thumbup: :thumbup:

For simplicity sake, let's round your numbers to 1 gallon and 34 miles. If the pump puts in just one tenth more or less, that's an error of up to 3.7 mpg. Considering that a fill can vary by more than half a gallon in most cars depending on the angle of the surface on which they are parked, I wouldn't put too much faith in the accuracy of that fill.

Snax:

I agree that the pump can vary, but keep in mind I used the exact same pump, on the exact same day, with only about a 2 hour difference in between. I've also used this pump for my last 6 fill ups. Even if it was off it would still be in the low 30's high 20's. The SG2 said 28.92 with 1.2 gallons used. It was pretty accurate last time so who knows. But with it being such a short trip it's too difficult to tell. I would have to do a longer trip using this driving method, it seems to be working for my daily commute to work and back. Before I was landing in the 15-19mpg range.

Its frustrating when you don't travel much or very far. You have to drive over here to New Orleans so you can get some mileage on that strawberry blimp. You keep her very clean, wish I could say the same of my vehicles. I still haven't refilled since my trip over to your place in Biloxi. Man if you could just put a boa-tail and manual transmission on that thing it'd be awesome. Sorry, I know you wish you could. Dodge should sell one like that called the Hyper Miler Edition. Then you could say "yup I've got a HmE" get it hemi. Oh god.

I might have to take a trip this weekend to N.O. since the family is coming down. It's hard to HM with other people though. I know they would complain about me driving slow and no AC.

How much does A/C affect your FE? Have you tested it? Driving slow, I know Erica always says... "someones gonna hit us"

The AC will drop the mpg by about 3 or 4 mpg.

Just tell the complainer(s) that its better than walking the extra 3-4 miles out of every 28.

You need to do a full tank with the Scangage to calibrate it, and after a couple tanks where you adjust the amount to fill each time, you'll find it has the right number already when you fill it. You also need to calibrate the Scangage distance by matching it to milemarkers or with a GPS, for 50 miles or so in order to get distance calibrated correctly. Then you can trust the mpg numbers from the scangage.

Honestly, I think you'd be better off having a 2nd vehicle or replacing the van with a more efficient vehicle if possible because with its high weight, big motor, auto trans, and high wind resistance, its going to be difficult to get good mpgs out of it.

I don't know if the IAT tricking resistor thing will work on a Chrysler, but after you get the scangage to where you can tell what your mpg's are, its a very cheap and easy mod to try. For simplicity sake, try to trick it to about 200 to 220 degrees when you do.

BTW, I'm not so sure its a real good idea with an auto trans to be neutral dropping it at 50 or 55 on an ongoing basis. a tranny is a lot more expensive than any gas you might save.

The one fuel saving technique I think might help would be to memorize what TPS readings are needed to drive at what mph, and then don't overaccelerate by much to get up to speed. For example, if it takes TPS 10 to get 60 mph, then maybe accelerate with TPS 14 until you get to 60, then let up to TPS 10 and roll along from there.

Cheapybob:

The SG2 was pretty accurate on the last fill. I've done several fills with the gauge and it's getting to be almost dead on. I've used the same gas pump for my last 6 fills also. I'll get a new vehicle when I get to California. I tried the IAT resistor mod (see other posts), and I think it tricks the SG2 more than anything. As far as dropping the tranny in Neutral at 50mph, it doesn't seem to jerk or anything. It's actually really smooth. My van has less than 3000 miles on it, and I bought a sevice contract from warrantydirect.com for a 7 year 100,000 coverage. So as far as the tranny going out, I'm not really worried about the money, because it's covered.

Hmm. They must have different levels of coverage based on how old/used one's vehicle is. Your post made me curious and I popped over to their site to take a look; the longest coverage they'd offer on my vehicle is 5 years/100K miles.

Have you studied your contract closely? The one they offered as a sample in my quote has all kinds of "interesting" limitations...

• They of course only cover "failure," not normal wear-and-tear (which I suppose means you'd have to let your timing belt break to be covered, versus changing it, the water pump, tensioner, etc. according to the maintenance schedule :D).
• They don't pay for covered parts if they're damaged thanks to the failure of a non-covered part.
• They only pay for certain "covered" parts if they're damaged thanks to the failure of other covered parts.
• Coverage is limited to the value of the vehicle, at which point the contract becomes null and void (that one certainly wouldn't affect you).
• Coverage is limited to $6,000 per vehicle.
• Transmission coverage is limited to $2,200 (I know from experience my tranny costs way more than that).
• Replacement parts can be remanufactured or third-party (I presume that excludes salvage yard pulls).
• You have to change the oil within 60 days, then prove you've changed it every 4 months/4K miles thereafter (VW has a 5K OCI)... with non-handwritten receipts on "licensed repair facility letterhead."
• You must use manufacturer-recommended lubricants (if that includes weight, that'd be an issue for those who go to lighter oil for FE).

And so on. Seems like a lot of loopholes, at least for my VW. Is your contract more lenient, since yours is a much newer vehicle?

The rates looked reasonable, but TANSTAAFL I guess...

Rick

Rick Rae:

Are you sure you went to Warrantydirect.com? Because I did a quote to view the contracts on a 2000 Cabrio with 40,000 miles, and the most coverage that was offered was a 2 year 25,000 mile coverage. They have different plans so I'm not sure which one you selected. The contract I have is called Secure Care. It didn't require oil changes or anything like that. I got this info from the contract.

LIMIT OF LIABILITY

a) The maximum limit of liability per loss shall be equal to the actual cash value of the Vehicle at the time of repair.
b) The aggregate limit of liability for each Service Contract shall not exceed the retail price of the Vehicle .

The limit liabilty seems fair, because I wouldn't want to shell out $5,000 for a repair if the vehicle is only worth $3,000.

7. MAINTENANCE REQUIREMENTS
You must maintain Your Vehicle according to the manufacturer's recommendations as outlined in the owner's manual. NOTE: Your owner's manual has separate required maintenance schedules for “normal” and “more severe” operating conditions. You are required to follow the maintenance schedule that applies to Your conditions. You must be sure only the proper grade of lubricants and coolants, as recommended by the manufacturer, is used in Your Vehicle . It is necessary for You to retain verifiable receipts for all parts and materials necessary to perform the required maintenance.

This makes sense, even the manufacturers warranty requires you to maintain your vehicle.

We will pay the repair facility of Your choice, or reimburse You, for the reasonable cost to repair or replace any part of Your Vehicle where a Failure has occurred, except for those items listed in the Exclusions section of this booklet. (So you can pick your repair facitlity as long as the item that is broken is excluded)

CAR RENTAL: We will, in the event of a Failure covered by this Contract , pay or reimburse You for receipted expenses to rent replacement transportation (from a Dealer or licensed rental agency) while Your Vehicle is undergoing repair. Such payment shall be limited to thirty dollars ($30) for each eight (8) labor hours, or portion thereof, of applicable labor time necessary to complete the repair, up to a maximum of one hundred fifty dollars ($150) per occurrence. This Coverage does not apply to time waiting for parts or other delays beyond the control of the repair facility. In the event of a major component (engine, transmission or drive axle) replacement, a maximum of three (3) days of parts delay Coverage will be afforded provided additional authorization is obtained from Administrator (except where prohibited by law).

I don't know if $30 a day is enough but it helps.

TRAVEL EXPENSES: We will, in the event a Failure covered by this Contract occurs more than one hundred (100) miles from Your home, reimburse You up to seventy-five dollars ($75) per day for up to three (3) consecutive days for receipted motel/restaurant expenses (except where prohibited by law). The date of Failure will be considered the first day of the three (3) day maximum period.

Seems like a good deal if the car be repiared in 3 days. If not your screwed.

Now for the good part the exclusions. Whatever is listed in the exclusions does not get covered.

EXCLUSIONS


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


This Vehicle Service Contract Provides NO Coverage or Benefits for the following:

A. THE FOLLOWING PARTS: BATTERY; SHOCK ABSORBERS; MANUAL TRANSMISSION CLUTCH ASSEMBLY; FRICTION CLUTCH DISC AND PRESSURE PLATE; THROW OUT BEARING; MANUAL AND HYDRAULIC LINKAGES; GPS NAVIGATION SYSTEMS; SAFETY RESTRAINT SYSTEMS (INCLUDING AIR BAGS); GLASS; LENSES; SEALED BEAMS; LIGHT BULBS; BRAKE ROTORS & DRUMS; TV/VIDEO/ENTERTAINMENT SYSTEMS; WEATHER STRIPS; TRIM; MOLDINGS; BRIGHT METAL; CHROME; UPHOLSTERY AND CARPET; PAINT; OUTSIDE ORNAMENTATION; BUMPERS; BODY SHEET METAL AND PANELS; TIRES; WHEELS/RIMS; PHONE SYSTEMS; EXHAUST & AIRBAG ELECTRONICS.

(UNLESS OPTIONAL AIRBAG ELECTRONICS COVERAGE HAS BEEN PURCHASED AND INDICATED ON IDENTIFICATION CARD. SEE COVERAGE PAGE FOR LIST OF OPTIONAL AIRBAG ELECTRONICS COVERED PARTS).

B. MAINTENANCE SERVICES AND PARTS DESCRIBED IN YOUR VEHICLE'S OWNER'S MANUAL AS SUPPLIED BY THE MANUFACTURER AND OTHER NORMAL MAINTENANCE SERVICES AND PARTS INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO: ALIGNMENTS; WHEEL BALANCING; TUNE-UPS; SPARK PLUGS AND SPARK PLUG WIRES; GLOW PLUGS; HOSES; DRIVE BELTS; BRAKE PADS; LININGS AND SHOES; DRUMS AND ROTORS AND WIPER BLADES. FILTERS, LUBRICANTS, COOLANTS, FLUIDS AND REFRIGERANTS WILL BE COVERED ONLY IF REPLACEMENT IS REQUIRED DUE TO A COVERED FAILURE.

C. ANY COMPONENT NOT COVERED BY THE VEHICLE MANUFACTURER FOR THE FULL TERM OF THE VEHICLE WARRANTY IS EXCLUDED.

D. ANY FAILURE RESULTING FROM COLLISION; INTERNAL OR EXTERNAL FIRE; THEFT; VANDALISM; RIOT; EXPLOSION; LIGHTNING; EARTHQUAKE; FREEZING; RUST OR CORROSION; WINDSTORM; HAIL; WATER OR FLOOD; ACTS OF GOD; SALT; ENVIRONMENTAL DAMAGE; CONTAMINATION OR LOSS OF FLUIDS, FUELS, COOLANTS OR LUBRICANTS.

E. ANY FAILURE CAUSED BY MISUSE; ABUSE; NEGLIGENCE; LACK OF NORMAL MAINTENANCE REQUIRED BY THE MANUFACTURER'S MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE FOR YOUR VEHICLE; IMPROPER SERVICING BY YOU AFTER THE EFFECTIVE DATE OF THIS CONTRACT; SLUDGE BUILD-UP OR NOT MAINTAINING PROPER LEVELS OF LUBRICANTS AND/OR COOLANTS; OR NOT PROTECTING THE VEHICLE FROM FURTHER DAMAGE WHEN A FAILURE HAS OCCURRED.

F. ANY REPAIR OR REPLACEMENT OF A COVERED PART IF A FAILURE HAS NOT OCCURRED OR IF THE WEAR ON THAT PART HAS NOT EXCEEDED THE FIELD TOLERANCES PERMITTED BY THE MANUFACTURER.

G. IF ANY ALTERATIONS HAVE BEEN MADE TO YOUR VEHICLE OR YOU ARE USING, OR HAVE USED, YOUR VEHICLE IN A MANNER NOT RECOMMENDED BY THE MANUFACTURER. THIS WILL INCLUDE, BUT NOT BE LIMITED TO, THE FAILURE OF ANY CUSTOM OR ADD-ON PART; ANY FRAME OR SUSPENSION MODIFICATIONS; LIFT KITS; OVERSIZED/UNDERSIZED TIRES OR WHEELS; TRAILER HITCHES; AND OR MODIFICATIONS TO THE ENGINE, EMISSIONS OR EXHAUST SYSTEMS.

H. IF YOUR ODOMETER HAS CEASED TO WORK AND REPAIRS HAVE NOT BEEN IMMEDIATELY MADE; THE ODOMETER HAS BEEN ALTERED IN ANY WAY SUBSEQUENT TO PURCHASE; OR IF VEHICLE'S TRUE MILEAGE CANNOT BE DETERMINED.

I. ANY LIABILITY FOR PROPERTY DAMAGE, OR FOR INJURY TO OR DEATH OF ANY PERSONS ARISING OUT OF THE OPERATION, MAINTENANCE OR USE OF YOUR VEHICLE, WHETHER OR NOT RELATED TO THE PARTS COVERED. LOSS OF TIME, PROFIT, INCONVENIENCE, OR ANY OTHER LOSS THAT RESULTS FROM A FAILURE (EXCEPT AS PROVIDED UNDER THE BENEFITS OR COVERAGES HEREIN.)

J. REPAIRS TO SEIZED OR DAMAGED ENGINES DUE TO CONTINUED OPERATION WITHOUT SUFFICIENT LUBRICANTS ORCOOLANT. YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR MAKING CERTAIN THAT THE OIL AND TEMPERATURE WARNING LIGHTS/GAUGES ARE FUNCTIONING PROPERLY. YOU MUST PULL OFF THE ROAD IMMEDIATELY AND DISCONTINUE VEHICLE OPERATION WHEN EITHER OF THESE LIGHTS/GAUGES INDICATES INADEQUATE PROTECTION OR PERFORMANCE.

K. SALVAGED TITLE VEHICLES; WHEN RESPONSIBILITY FOR A REPAIR IS COVERED BY AN INSURANCE POLICY; WARRANTY FROM THE MANUFACTURER INCLUDING EXTENDED DRIVE TRAIN, MAJOR COMPONENT OR FULL COVERAGE WARRANTIES; A REPAIRER'S GUARANTEE/WARRANTY; OR FAILURES FOR WHICH THE MANUFACTURER HAS ANNOUNCED ITS RESPONSIBILITY THROUGH ANY MEANS, INCLUDING RECALL CAMPAIGNS AND FACTORY SERVICE BULLETINS.

L. IF YOUR VEHICLE IS USED FOR TOWING A TRAILER OR OTHER OBJECT OR VEHICLE WITHOUT BEING EQUIPPED WITH A FACTORY INSTALLED OR AUTHORIZED TOW PACKAGE; OR IS USED FOR COMMERCIAL PURPOSES, INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, RENTAL, TAXI, LIMOUSINE, LIVERY OR SHUTTLE, TOWING OR ROAD REPAIR, CONSTRUCTION, FARMING OR AGRICULTURAL PURPOSES, JOB SITE ACTIVITIES, HAULING, POLICE OR EMERGENCY SERVICES, PRINCIPAL OFF ROAD USE, RACING, COMPETITIVE DRIVING, SNOW REMOVAL, ROUTE-WORK, SERVICE OR REPAIR.

M. ANY FAILURE OCCURRING PRIOR TO THE CONTRACT PURCHASE DATE, OR IF INFORMATION PROVIDED BY YOU OR A REPAIR FACILITY CANNOT BE VERIFIED AS ACCURATE OR IS FOUND TO BE DECEPTIVELY INACCURATE.

N. ANY FAILURE OCCURRING OUTSIDE OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA OR CANADA .

O. DAMAGE CAUSED BY PRE-IGNITION DETONATION, PINGING, IMPROPER/CONTAMINATED FUEL OR IMPROPER ENGINE ADJUSTMENTS.

I don't think there's a service contract out there that would pay to have a water pump, or timing chain changed without it actually being broken first. Preventitive maintance is not covered, even by the manufacturer. Most of the contracts that I've seen list all the parts that are covered, in order to make it look like your getting a good service contract, but your actually not. So I think this contract is pretty good because it shows you what's not covered.

Ayup. That's the return address domain on the quote follow-up email they sent me, and I also recognized a lot of the boilerplate in what you pasted.

Awfully optimistic of you on the mileage, I'm over 103K. :D

All I did was go to the main page and click on the "get a quote" thingum.

The one they handed me is called "Power Shield" so yeah, we're talking about two different policies as I expected. Or rather, "hoped"... you wouldn't want to be saddled with this one for the life of your vehicle.

I won't paste the whole thing but here are some selected quotes from the contract.

The maximum limit of liability per covered vehicle is $6000. The limit of liability per covered component is as follows: $3,300 in engine claims; $2,200 in transmission claims; $1,500 in differential claims; and $300 in emergency roadside assistance claims... Once the maximum limit of liability has been reached, this Contract, its transfer and cancellation rights, terminate.

You must... Change the engine oil and filter within sixty (60) days of the warranty start date... Have the engine oil and filter changed by a commercial service facility every four (4) months or four thousand miles thereafter, whichever comes first. Proper documented and verifiable receipts for oil and engine filter changes will be required in the event of a claim. Hand written receipts will not be accepted. Receipts must be on licensed repair facility letterhead and include date and mileage at time of service.

And here are samples of "we won't pay for a covered part if it's damaged by the failure of a non-covered part, nor will we pay for certain other 'covered' parts unless they are damaged by other covered parts":

This Contract [does not cover]... damage resulting from Failure of non-covered parts. This Contract covers ONLY the components/parts listed below... Transmission case, transfer case & torque converter case, ONLY if damaged by the Failure of a lubricated internal part.

Sounds like the one you have is much more reasonable and comprehensive. :thumbup::)

Rick

EDIT: You posted as I was composing my message, so I'll just tack this on here...

Oh, absolutely. That bit was intended as humor (hence the "of course," the suggestion of letting one's timing belt break (ouch!) and the smiley face). :)

Also, the contract they presented to me did list all the fiddly bits that are covered (along with the stuff they wouldn't cover). Like I said, it sounds like yours is a much better contract... which makes perfect sense, for a newer vehicle. To be honest, I wasn't expecting them to even offer anything for a car with over 100K on it!

Rick Rae:

I think that power shield thing isn't a good contract. Sorry if I came off the wrong way, but I've heard only good things about warrantydirect.com. But we'll have to wait and see until I actually make a claim. A lot of dealerships sell service contracts similar to the Power Shield and they end up thinking they have bumper to bumper, but only have minimum coverage. Ohh well!

I think 100K is the tipping point. Most people don't maintain their vehicles. If you ever get a new car you should check out that site again. I think their reasonable and seem good.

Oh geez no, not at all. It sounded interesting so I checked it out, and after seeing what they offered me I hoped that wasn't the contract you had, that's all. We're good. :)

I will; I'll have to get something in the next year or two for business.

I did see one thing in your contract that might deserve mentioning:

This Vehicle Service Contract Provides NO Coverage or Benefits for... FAILURE CAUSED BY MISUSE; ABUSE... [or] IF ANY ALTERATIONS HAVE BEEN MADE TO YOUR VEHICLE OR YOU ARE USING, OR HAVE USED, YOUR VEHICLE IN A MANNER NOT RECOMMENDED BY THE MANUFACTURER.

Depending on how badly they want to weasel out of paying a claim, a simple mod like blocking off some of the grill might be cosidered "alterations to your vehicle." Similarly, EOC coasting or even dropping in an out of neutral at cruising speeds might be considered "misuse" or driving "in a manner not recommended by the manufacturer."

So if you get to a point where you need to file a claim and you have some mods you know aren't related (e.g. a hot air intake where the problem is a transmission failure), you might want to undo the mods before you take the vehicle in, etc.

Hey, let's hope we wait in vain and you never have to file one! :thumbup::)

Rick

Not covered by acts of god?! I've never thought of bringing my car in and saying "Oh it wasn't my fault, it was definately an act of god" :D

I did the same technique today driving to the Gulfport Airport. I paid more attention to RPMs. At 60 MPH the RPMs are about 1800-2000 depending on the grade of the road. When I drop it into Neutral the RPMs dip to about 900-1000. Is this good or bad?

how do you mean? You were'nt accelerating so that'd be using less gas... good right? Do you know that when coming to a stop if you leave it in gear above a certain speed and rpm it cuts out your injectors and you get really good mileage like EOC. We just got back from Gulf Shores. Trip cost ~$21 in gas for 400+ miles. Did you find your mom's stuff?

88HF:

Is it bad for the engine to be a 900-1000 at highway speeds in Neutral? We never found the wallet or the phone, but they were able to fly out. I think we had a kick AZZ time in New Orleans, except for the Krazy Korner incident.

Sorry y'all couldn't find the stuff. Erica wrote some reviews about Krazy Korner on the internet, she said before her review they had 5 stars. F crazy corner! About the transmission thing, i don't know, sounds about the same as EOC as far as disengaging the transmission from the engine, but I guess it depends how it lubricates. Maybe if you make a thread about it someone will know more.