'88 CRX HF Advice Please
 

Hi first post here, great site, lots of info,

I purchased a completely stock '88 CRX HF recently with a blown engine, but also very straight body for $800. I'm in the process of having the engine completely rebuilt and I'm going to end up with a $4500 car with a rebuilt engine new paint, new tires, new seats.

Some questions:

Tires, planning on Sumitomo SC 628 155/80/13. I have these tires on my Corrolla and the pushed the MPG up about 2 overall. Anybody have any better recommendations?

Exhaust: Will I save more gas by oversizing the catalytic converter and exhaust system behind it? I really don't care too much about performance will this just up my HP and not the MPG?

Oil: Should I go synthetic or just 10/30?

Body: I don't want to mod it permanantly because 10 years from now it might be collectable. Is there some kind of air dam I could mount on the existing bumper without ruining it?

Any other suggestions? New chip? Will a chip ruin my california smog rating?

Thanks,
Fritz

Exhaust, go stock.

Oil, go synthetic.

Body, look around at mods folks have done. I make mine completely reversible.

Chip, save your money.

Just my opinions.

FritzR -

I agree with Bill on all points. Also, if you want to maintain "classic" appeal, then reversible mods are the way to go.

CarloSW2

If you are in CA, keep in mind that anything but the stock cat will not pass smog. You of course could put all the stock exhaust back on every two years, but what a PIA.

When you say you will have a $4500 car, I hope you aren't inferring you are paying close to $4000 to have the engine rebuilt, to me that would be way to steep. (buy the way, how much are they charging you to rebuild the engine?)

You really cannot chip the P07 (I think the HF is a P07) ECU, it does not have an external EPROM chip. There is some drastic mod where you can modify the ECU motherboard to accept an external EPROM, but don't think it is worth the effort. And if you did, like the exhaust, you'd probably have to set it back to the original, (or buy a 2nd ECU) to pass smog.

If the engine is relatively stock, I'd leave the ECU alone. If I ever get the extra $, I'm going to put a Megasquirt in my CRX to lean the car out for better mileage. It can be done as a plug and play that you can put the stock one back in to sell the car or pass emissions.

Thanks for the help guys. I am in CA and so I guess I'm leaving the exhaust stock for smog and since you guys recommended not changing it.

As for the price of the rebuilt engine the bid is $2300 with new head, all new bearings, gaskets, water pump, new pistons, etc.. in other words a complete rebuild. This is a little high compared to other bids I got but it's a honda only specialty shop with a really good rep that is local.

Anyone want to chime in on what synthetic oil they recommend?

Here's what my budget looks like so far

$800 the car
$2300 engine rebuild
$200 new rear wheel bearings
$220 for some immaculate used del sol seats
$200 tires
$600 paint job

Total $4320

Fritz,

For tires, check out the Sumitomo HTR T4:

https://www.sumitomotire.com/catalogs...at_Rev5.05.pdf

They're AB tires (Traction A, Temperature B) and have a 75,000 mile treadwear warranty versus the SC628 BB rating and 40,000 mile treadwear warranty, which means the potential money you save on improved FE versus the HTR T4 will be spent on the second set of tires at 40,000 miles. The HTR T4 lasts almost 90% longer. Additionally, the HTR T4 is available in the correct HF original tire size 165/70/13, and they're only 1 lb heavier than the SC628 size 155/80/13. Personally, I'd rather have a sliightly wider tire for better handling and braking.

Finally, although the HTR T4 is not described as a LRR tire in the Sumitomo description, it has an Excellent rating for LRR in a Consumer Reports test (not available anymore to view).

I have the HTR T4 on my '95 Civic DX hatchback, and they're great.

Steve

Sounds like it will be a nice car. Considering the amount of labor and parts, and if they are using Honda parts, $2300 isn't too high for a complete rebuild.

From what I've read, I wouldn't switch to the synthetic until after the engine is broken in, apparently the rings don't break in as well on synthetic oil.

Good job on the Del Sol seats, the stock HF seats suck. I had to put a Wal Mart seat pad in my driver's seat just to handle sitting in it for more then 30 minutes at a time.

I would also make sure all the heater hoses are replaced while the engine is out. 19 year old hoses are going to fail, and getting to those when the engine is in place is a PIA.

Thanks Steve,

I think I'LL Try the T-4s. They can take more pressure also. What pressure do you run them at on your Civic?

Oh and by the way all you folks are great. Lot's of good responces and not a bad vibe anywhere

You might want to check this article from Team-integra.net on engine break in procedures.


https://www.team-integra.net/sections...?ArticleID=389

Fritz,
I run them at the full 51 psi, and perhaps slightly higher if my air pressure gauge is off by the couple of psi I think it is. It's definitely a stiffer ride, but they roll quite well.
Steve