Still have a long way to go....
 

2004 F150 4.6L Auto

Some history. I have an 04 F150 that is paid for with low mileage (38K). I have a large family, and an acre lot. It is nice to have the truck for hauling things that I need. I do most jobs myself. I dont need this for everyday driving though, so I decided that I could give up the truck and either have materials delivered or rent a truck when the occasion presents itself. To that end I began my search for a new car that would get the best mileage possible. I looked at the civic hybrid, prius, yaris, and fit.

After making some assumptions on annual driving and gas cost for comparison purposes between my truck and a new vehicle, it was decided that I could only finance $5K for a new car and immediately start saving money. Any more than that and I'd be breaking even or spending MORE for 5 years (loan term) before saving any money on fuel. Basically, cost of truck fuel for one year had to be less than new car payment + new car fuel cost. Keep in mind that these numbers were based on EPA estimates for all vehicles. I had to make some assumptions for the math to be consistent between vehicles. The numbers just didnt work out, and I am keeping the truck. It doesnt make sense to me to spend more money for 5 years before I start saving. Most people dont even keep a car for more than 5 years - and I cant say that Im one of them. OK now what do I do, I say - and then I find this site and all the wonderful information you all have to share! Hoorah, Im on my way I think...

I've been reading a bit and decided to work on aero mods first, trying to keep cost down and return on investment high - which I calculate in miles to drive before cost of improvement is covered.

I have baselined 2 tanks and purchased a SGII for the 3rd baseline.
1st tank = 16 mpg
2nd tank = 17 mpg
3rd tank (SG) = 19 mpg

I built my own tonneau cover and grille block and began with the A-B-A testing today with those and the additional steps of removing passenger wiper and increasing the tire pressure from 35 to 50. All tests below measured with SG.
A = 18.3, 19.3, 20.5
B = 19, 19.1, 20
A = 20, 19.2, 20

I saw a negligible difference between grille block and no grille block, as expected. I also spent 1.5 hours on this A-B-A test - just to confirm little difference. I am an impatient person - so I decided to make all changes at once and see what happened. After all, I realize that aero mods work together and that individual changes dont make a big difference, but cumulatively - they can. I added the tonneau cover, grille block, 50 PSI, and removed the passenger wiper. Off to the course for the test...

A = 19, 19.2, 20
B = 20.4, 22, 20.6
No final A (didnt undo everything and retest, ran out of time today).

The first number in each case is a 10 mile stretch with stoplights, rolling hills and some traffic, tried to keep a speed of 60.
The second number in each case is a 12 mile stretch of highway, small low grade hills, kept speed at 70.
The third number in each case is the same 10 mile stretch as the first number, just opposite direction.

So on my highway run, it looks like the mods gave me an increase of ~2.8mpg, or roughly 15%. Im not sure which is right, the 16/17 mpg baseline, or the SG 18/19/20 baseline. To be sure, I will manually calculate this next tank of gas and use that number as a final increase value as compared to the 16/17 baseline values. This will be my best comparison, cause I just got the SGII and still need to calibrate it (pumped gallons vs what SG thought it received). Based on 16/17 baseline, and if I really get 22 on the next tank calculation, then I only need to drive 12,900 miles to recover my costs...LOL.

Next on my list is a full under body tray, lower grille/bumber seam block, rear wheel skirts, possibly a boat-tail from the rear of the cab to beyond the tailgate (truck may be perfect for this). I dont know what else I could do aero wise to get any improvements (I need my mirrors - sorry).

I dont get how some of you guys get such huge mileage gains.... Im hoping to just double my EPA and get 32 when its all done. I know that my driving style will have the most impact on that. Im hoping the SG can re-educate me!

Thanks for all the great info here, and for everyones contributions. Anyway - Ive rambled on enough now. Cheers.

-Jeff

Welcome to the site! Sounds like you're already off to a great start!

Any pictures for us?

For that size vehicle, your doing pretty well on mileage. When you say you did not see any effect by a grill block, I am pretty surprised. Further down you talk about a lower grill block. When I think grill block, I am thinking both upper and lower.

As far as a alternative vehicle, how many people are you typically having to transport. I agree with your assesement, from the standpoint of making payments, but I'm wondering if you still couldn't get something which would assist your transportation needs, at a lower expense. However, 18 with a full size truck is pretty respectable, in any case and maybe it will be the most cost effective.

Welcome
 

Welcome to GasSavers :thumbup:

Great testing and intro! The SGII should help with the mods "behind the wheel" -- big changes come with time and practice.

Regarding physical modifications, aero mods help if you do quite a bit of high-speed driving. Otherwise, things like weight reduction and engine management can help around town.

Enjoy the site and best FE to ya,

RH77

Thanks for the encouragement. I dont have room for another car. Already a VAN in the garage for the family. My truck, moms car, and large boat in the drive. I thought about it, but decided to stick with a single vehicle. Thanks for thinkin about it though.

As far as the grille block goes, you can see in the pictures that just the upper grille is blocked for now. I have not yet figured out a way to block the lower grille. Upon inspection of it, the seam between the bumper and body is quite large and captures lots of air...so I need to block that too. Im going to tape it up with some heavy plastic sheeting for a test run. If it makes a difference, I will most likely buy a roll of auto-sign magnet 18" x 10'. My bumper is metal, and the magnet will stick to it, covering the lower grille and seam. I may just have to tape the magnets top edge to the plastic portion above the seam (since it obviously wont magneticlly stick to plastic). At least foil tape looks like chrome? lol....

The grille block was made by removing the honeycomb portion of the grille, the solid black piece remains in place. I taped the front of the honeycomb, and the filled in the backside with silicon caulk. Filled it enough that the back is a solid piece for each honeycomb portion. Looks good, adn if it heats up here in NC, I can quickly remove it without destroying anything. I am also still ascetically minded.

https://www.doodlebuckets.com/epnc/IMG_2242.JPG


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https://www.doodlebuckets.com/epnc/IMG_2244.JPG

The tonneau cover was mad out of 2 sheets of tongue / groove insulation board, aluminum channels along the edges, angle irons for cross supports - all foil taped together. I then took it to the rhino liner shop and had them spray it on both sides, so it is waterproof and durable. It is held in place on the bed with aluminum angle riveted to the bed rails. bungee cords hold in down from the inside. total cost $300. Better than half the cost of the most inexpensive new hard cover I could find.

https://www.doodlebuckets.com/epnc/IMG_2237.JPG


https://www.doodlebuckets.com/epnc/IMG_2238.JPG


https://www.doodlebuckets.com/epnc/IMG_2239.JPG

I also plan to use a fencing tension bar to allow for clearance around the lower rear body and rear tire. Then just slap a very large auto-sign magnet to the bod and that bar. This will create an easily removed wheel skirt, for accessing the rear tire when needed. The stuff isnt too expensive and seems to me a good solution to functionality, easy removal.

Looking forward to more ideas from reading all the posts. Have fun out there!

Look in to swithching over your engine, transmission and rearend to Amsoil. Amsoil increased my fuel mileage by 2 MPG when I switched to their 10W-30 Synthetic Motor oil in my 2001 Chevy Impala with 201,000 miles on the odometer!

Once again, no selling junk in the introduction forum.

actually i believe the amsoil advice is VERY good(selling it or not). independent research and more importantly a very reputable celeb mechanic support that it is THE best lubricant on the planet.

if you recall, this member prefers "hands on" experience over manipulated clinical research or stats. my experience has been very good with amsoil as well.

That's fine advice, but this website doesn't exist for people to dole out random advice for their own personal profit...

Agreed!

jeffreymccoy -

Welcome to GS! Very clean mods. The insulated board is a nice touch. My instinct is to paint it white on top with elastomeric paint to keep the cargo bed cool, but form a style POV, it's better as is. Your MPG calcs are spot-on.

CarloSW2

Sweet!!!

Looks like you have done a lot so far. You know, to a lot of people, its not geting the 30-40-50MPG, its making the best of what they have.

Now, I have to ditto the idea on the synth fluid.[whatever brand] is it a 4wd?? If so I bet you gain a lot changing all the dif's, and cases over to synth. It has always worked well for me in the 4wd's I have had.

I added the lower grille / bumper seam block today. total cost $25.

Used aluminum channel for rigid backing, choroplast sign to give a backing to the flashing. Riveted the the flashing, choroplast, aluminum channel together. Put door trip all the way around, zip tied to convenient places inside.

I used gray/silver copper pipe insulation to stuff the large bumper seam. All in all, I think it looks pretty good for an afternoons work. Will see tomorrow if we get any improvements on the highway. Hoping for 24mpg hwy!

What do you think?

https://www.doodlebuckets.com/epnc/IMG_2250.JPG

https://www.doodlebuckets.com/epnc/IMG_2251.JPG

https://www.doodlebuckets.com/epnc/IMG_2252.JPG

https://www.doodlebuckets.com/epnc/IMG_2253.JPG

Kudos on a good looking aero mod. And Welcome to gassavers!

Nice work your mods look great!

Realy looks nice!! And the way you got it setup, you could easly remove some, or eaven drill a hole of two in that lower panel if it gets to warm.

Wow, Nice
 

Wow -- I'm inspired to get to work on a grill block myself!

Very clean...

If you do have hi-temp issues, they should be fairly simple to resolve, as mentioned by others.

Keep us posted on your projects :thumbup:

RH77

Wait, isn't there a reason air is let into the engine? Won't the engine be choked for air?

Only at super sonic speeds :p

trebuchet03,
Just for my education, why can some cars/trucks get by with a complete grill block?

jeffreymccoy's F150 seems to be doing great with a full grill block, upper and lower. And I've read of others doing the same.

I don't mean to threadjack - just want to throw in my story for comparison.

I just finished redoing the front face on my car. '89 wagon, 2.3 liter engine, electric rad fan with LED on the dash to tell me when fan comes on. With a smallish intake below the bumper (about 2.5" x 24") and a slightly smaller one above, the fan comes on occasionally for interstate upgrades at about 75 deg. F or warmer outside temp. I had to enlarge the upper intake as the first "cut" caused the fan to come on far too often for my taste, the the engine temp also increased significantly. With the current openings it's OK but I wouldn't dare block it more, at least not for the current temps we're seeing.

Comments?

It just depends on the radiator and it's efficiency ;) Cooling systems are over sized for that worst case scenario (in this case, hauling something big and heavy up a mountain in the desert :p).

Despite there being a grille block, you're still going to have some airflow - BUT, depending on the car, the difference is "how much" and is that "enough" ;)

But the nice thing about making it removable/adjustable... If you notice things are running hot (as you did), you can easily pull over make an adjustment and then move on :thumbup:

Had a good run today. I'll answer the questions first, then move onto my stats, and then a question.


Questions/Concerns - yes it is probably not much of a hauler at this point. But entire upper grille block honeycomb section pops out in under 2 minutes with the use of a flatblade screwdriver. So when I need to haul, or the NC summer heat gets a little too much, then I have that option. I typically dont haul much, but when I need it, I have a truck - which is why I bought a truck. Now - 3 years later, Im finally thinking about fuel economy and working with the vehicle I have.

Air is still let into the engine - between the hood and bumper is a 1/2" - 1" slit all the way across. Some air is getting in there, as described below.

Thanks for the positive feedback on the asthetics...my wife thinks Im a little nuts I think.

I drove 400 miles up hwy 95 today. I had a great run. The engine temp only increased about 15-20 degrees. before lower grille block, it ran at 188. Today it ran between 200-206 with the lower part added. I was also always moving of course. In stop and go traffic (which I am in very little of, if ever) it may inch up a bit more. But it was fine today, and that was with a NC high of 90!

without the lower grille block, my SG tests showed an average of 22mpg in testing. Todays run with the lower grille / bumper seam block added, I averaged 24.7 mpg, running between 60-70 mph. Then I hit DC...lol. got through ok, and kept my average up for the whole trip at 24.1. I am very pleased with this. Additionally, the last manual tank calculation I made was 17.5mpg on the tank. Todays manual tank calculation, made up of mostly highway but some local, was 22.4. Im very excited to see these mods payoff. I usually use an entire tank on this drive, but today only 3/4 of a tank. Round trip I have saved 1/2 tank. The great part is, I still have some more mods to make! 32mpg may actually be attainable!

Question time. I used cruise control most of the time today and noticed late in the trip that if I let cruise fully control the throttle while on downhill coasts, the SG would report back 50-60-70mpg. BUT if I used the cruise button, it felt like it disengaged the transmission and SG would report 120-130-140 mpg. I only used this for the last 50 miles of the trip, which is when I discovered that there was a difference. I also tried to just put it in N myself and coast, but SG reported the same 50-60-70 numbers. It was really weird, on the same hill, in cruise, without me using the crs button, SG = 50-60-70. Id hit it, SG = 120-130-140, Id let go, and back to 50-60-70. Any thoughts on whats going on\? Is SG confused, or do you think its making a difference?

I guess Ill know for sure on the leg back home Wednesday - as Ill be trying to use that button as much as possible and see if I arrive back with 1/2 a tank rather than 1/4.