teamswift might have some email issues or something I will message the guy and let him know about it.

I used the Bosch +4 plugs cause I am lazy and don't like having to change them often. Wires I use whatever is cheapest since they really don't matter much on these cars. Distributor cap and rotor might be worth looking at as well to make sure the electrodes are in good shape.

I will probably be experimenting with a warm air intake again now that I can measure the IAT sensor easily. It seems like shoot for 80F temperatures in the intake is ideal. So if I get that figured out it might be worth trying on other Metros but running it really hot just kills the mileage. Mine dropped 8mpg from running a hot intake when I tried it last year.

Hot Air
 

My intake draws "warm air" -- with a target of about 100F. It requires re-direction in the Summer and Winter (exhaust manifold area in the Winter, and as ambient outside air as possible in the Summer).

Each application is different -- in my case too hot is detrimental (130+) or too cold (<70F).

Considerable gains are met if I keep it above 70F in the Winter. Otherwise, modest FE increases result any other time the year.

RH77

I did an a-b-a test today with HAI... same test route as always, 45/55 mph bypass with stoplights out, 65 mph interstate out, 65 mph interstate back, 45/55 bypass back.

a - 22.3 / 20.4 / 19.4 / 22.2 IAT 78 / 80 / 88 / 90

b - 21.5 / 21.5 / 20.5 / 21.5 IAT 114 / 121 / 127 / 122

a - 22.0 / 20.6 / 20.1 / 21.9 IAT 80 / 82 / 89 / 91

no difference really. So, I went from 25.5 to 22 just with a change in the weather... sigh, and IAT back to hotter temps didnt do anything for me. No rain today.

Gonna remove the side mirrors next

Bummer -- I haven't heard of Fords reacting to temps yet.

Regarding the mirrors, are you planning a fish-eye internal mirror, cool cameras, etc???

RH77

If you're seeing better mpg when your car has less power then you likely have a heavy throttle foot. Lighten that, then restore the car's power and lighten up the foot some more, now you'll see some mpg.

However, if you continue to see marginal numbers then it is quite possible your best fuel economy method is to not drive the car, at least in my case this always saves the most.

Better mpg or less gallons burned, you decide which is best.

My 87 civic (with carb) has a stock system that keeps the intake air around 100 degrees.

I am.

I use a TRD drop in air-filter, took out my snorkle, and its helped me average about 2.5-3 more mpg , in my 1.5L engine.

I have an HAI. In fact, I should be receiving my high-temperature silicone adhesive backed PTFE insulating tape from McMaster-Carr today. I am going to wrap the intake snorkel and the tube I have going from the intake resonator hole in the airbox to under the exhaust manifold. In the cooler weather I am topping out at 100 &#176;F intake air temp and I want to pump it up.

Hot air box
 

I would like to use a small heater core and make a water to air intake air heater box. Has anyone here done that? I think the most likely heater core would be from a chevy chevette but there are probably many possibilities. I am not getting very hot air in the winter now.

When I used to be in regular contact with Fran at hydrogen-boost.com it seems to me that he tried something like that in his Saturn SL1. I think you would want a way to control the heat because I think that too hot(especially on a Saturn)can cause the timing to retard which ends up killing your FE. I'm not sure, but it seems like maybe 150F was the upper limit?

I just started running an HAI on the Prius last weekend so I don't have much data but it seems to be helping.