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-   -   Anyone use Royal Purple? (https://www.fuelly.com/forums/f8/anyone-use-royal-purple-7363.html)

JESSE69 01-23-2008 01:24 PM

Anyone use Royal Purple?
 
I'm thinking about getting Royal Purple. Check out it's website - https://www.royalpurple.com/index.html

https://www.royalpurple.com/motor-oil.html

https://www.royalpurple.com/rp-perfor...dvantages.html

Anyone use Royal Purple and how was it? It seems to be a real good oil for FASing.

Maybe I'll try 2 quarts Royal Purple with 2 quarts Castrol Syntec at my next oil change and use it for 10,000 miles. More miles if the oil still looks good, and not too dirty.

When I went to an auto store one of the SA said he put Royal Purple into his truck before a 5000 mile round trip cruise to CA back to TX. Then the oil was burnt after the trip. Well, I doubt his story, - what about user experiences here?

BumblingB 01-23-2008 02:03 PM

I've used it. Didn't see any difference from Amsoil plus I've run Mobil 1 before too and never had problems with that either. One RP product I ran was the gear oil in the tranny of my Metro - shifted like butter after the swap!! Again, who knows, probably would of gotten the same results from Amsoil, Redline etc.

RP impressed me the most with the "extra" items they gave me. I'm a sucker for "free" stuff so the free hats etc they gave me were enough to win me over. :)

On that note, I don't run it in my diesels nor do I run it in my motorhome. I will be swapping some gear lube in the Corvette when I get around to rebuilding the rear end in about 3 years.

michaelwoodcock 01-23-2008 02:34 PM

This oil gave me better cold starting over non synthetic oil. I guess all Synthetics do that though?
that is all i have to offer as far as the oil goes. Oh, and it does not makd noticable deposits

bones33 01-24-2008 02:09 AM

I've used RP gear oil in two of my vehicles. Noticeably reduced friction and smoother shifts vs dino oil, must be viscosity related. My local trans shop says that synthetics in automatics are not really that beneficial, but synthetics in manual trans are worthwhile. I know my manual shifts better with syn.

Except in extreme duty applications, I believe synthetic engine oil is at best break even (with an extended drain interval) and in most cases a money losing proposition. In engines where part of the requirement is to keep contaminants suspended and the change intervals are more frequent it just makes sense to keep clean relatively cheap dino oil in your engine. Dino engine oils are actually really good these days, engines are lasting multiple 100,000s of miles when dino oil is changed regularly, that to me says that metal to metal contact is pretty minimal.

As for cold starting there might be some benefit of syn, however the more frequent drain intervals when using dino allow using the correct viscosity for the changing temperatures of the seasons, possibly reducing this benefit.

Also keep in mind that 3000 mile drain intervals are too frequent for almost everyone. If you want to know how far you can go between changes, send a sample of your oil to a lab for analysis, it's like 15 bucks. You'll likely find that you can safely double your mileage between drain intervals. At work we change dino oil in our 1000Kw generators every 3 years, based on lab analysis.

bowtieguy 01-24-2008 03:30 AM

never used it but...

the guys on horsepower tv put their products in the engine,tranny, and rear end of a 2000 camaro. that mod alone yielded 9 extra hp, suggesting to me that friction was significantly reduced.

SL8Brick 01-24-2008 05:42 AM

I don't use it...VOAs on BiTOG weren't very impressive. I know some folks swear by it, but it is rather expensive when compared to other syns.

FWIW - Valvoline SynPower (full syn) is BOGO @ Advanced Auto...stock up while you can.

Project84 01-25-2008 12:05 AM

A member of the Napa Staff I use as a supplier suggested Royal Purple to me and said he's been using it for a few years now in his Dodge Durango. Said he goes 12k mi. on his oil change intervals and swaps the filter at 6k and then refills the engine w/ the 6k mi. used RP. Said he had to do a headgasket late last year ('07) and the engine looked polished on the inside... no gunk anywhere.

So, taking what he says into consideration:

Full synthetic motor oil at $5.00 per quart, oil change every 3k (5 quarts), to reach 12k mi. you'd spend $100 in oil alone, then filters at $4 x 4 filters ($16), you'd spend a total of $116 (relatively low estimate).

Royal purple at $8.50 per quart @ 10 quarts... $85 plus $8 for 2 filters, $93.

GasSavers_SD26 01-25-2008 03:42 AM

[QUOTE=Project84;89546
Full synthetic motor oil at $5.00 per quart, oil change every 3k (5 quarts), to reach 12k mi. you'd spend $100 in oil alone, then filters at $4 x 4 filters ($16), you'd spend a total of $116 (relatively low estimate).

Royal purple at $8.50 per quart @ 10 quarts... $85 plus $8 for 2 filters, $93.[/QUOTE]

You could go longer on the original oil change to every 4k. You'd save $29 right there and be at the same cost. Is Royal Purple 60% better than $5 oils?

Honestly, I'm trying to find that kind of stuff out myself.

jcp123 01-25-2008 07:03 AM

From what I've heard, RP is more of a racing-oriented oil where Amsoil is based on longevity (25k mile oil changes, and I've heard more than one person say they've submitted samples @ 25k miles for analysis showing that its protection was not significantly compromised even then - indicating you could probably go even further than that). That makes sense given most of the places I've seen Royal Purple for sale are speed shops...

bowtieguy 01-25-2008 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcp123 (Post 89588)
From what I've heard, RP is more of a racing-oriented oil where Amsoil is based on longevity (25k mile oil changes, and I've heard more than one person say they've submitted samples @ 25k miles for analysis showing that its protection was not significantly compromised even then - indicating you could probably go even further than that). That makes sense given most of the places I've seen Royal Purple for sale are speed shops...

well you said it! so...

my source(an award winning master mechanic) tells me that amsoil lubricants are THE best in the world PERIOD

this is via oil analysis AND hands on experience.

i do NOT sell amsoil BTW.

Project84 01-25-2008 12:41 PM

My saturn daily driver burns a quart of oil every 1,000 mi. This is just like any saturn of the years prior to 2000 (ish) so I'm not worried. This being the case, I used synthetic blend oils (high mileage) and don't give anything else a second thought.

GasSavers_tillo 01-29-2008 02:10 PM

I used it in a 95 chevy 350 and the truck seemed to drink about a quart each oil change so I discontinued.

Zvolen 01-30-2008 06:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Project84 (Post 89627)
My saturn daily driver burns a quart of oil every 1,000 mi. This is just like any saturn of the years prior to 2000 (ish) so I'm not worried. This being the case, I used synthetic blend oils (high mileage) and don't give anything else a second thought.

Not EVERY Saturn, I have a 1998 and it currently burns NO oil between changes, which are approx 3-4k miles.

GasSavers_SD26 01-30-2008 07:13 AM

Ok, since we're on an using oil tangent, I'll thread jack a bit. Anyone try Auto-RX to clean out the engine? Might help when using oil. Really thinking about it on my bus with 250k diesel miles.

Greybrick 01-30-2008 07:43 PM

Motul 8100 E-tech Lite 0W-30 or Motul 8100 E-tech 0W-40

https://www.motul-canada.com/main.htm

Synthetic complex ester based, -60?C / -76?F pour points on both.

8307c4 02-02-2008 03:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by michaelwoodcock (Post 89368)
This oil gave me better cold starting over non synthetic oil. I guess all Synthetics do that though?
that is all i have to offer as far as the oil goes. Oh, and it does not makd noticable deposits

Sure do, I buy my synthetic when it goes on sale BOGO by the cases, that or Walmart sells the 5 quart bottles for around 12.50-$15 some times. I run synthetic in everything but I can't afford $6 a quart see.

Now at $3 a quart I would be a fool not to use it, stock up when you can, at one time I had right about 100 quarts lol, great stuff.

Only thing to remember is don't mix brands between oil changes, use the same brand from one oil change to the next so make sure to get enough. In my case I also always use 10w-30 so there's no confusion there.

.......................
As for motor flush, for gasoline engines I use straight kerosene but there's a process involved! If you're not sure, the first time get a can of Motor Flush at Advance it gives you the procedure (and it also costs $8 a quart and I am sure it is 90% or better all Kerosene inside).
Great stuff, but I wouldn't do it unless you have good reason to strongly suspect a serious internal gunk problem.

Greybrick 02-02-2008 12:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 8307c4 (Post 90139)
Sure do, I buy my synthetic when it goes on sale BOGO by the cases, that or Walmart sells the 5 quart bottles for around 12.50-$15 some times. I run synthetic in everything but I can't afford $6 a quart see.

Since about the late 1990's when Castrol by court order was allowed the use of the word 'synthetic' to describe group III refined dino based oils, 'synthetic' really has no meaning and doesn't give any basis for chosing an engine or gear lubricant imo. Go figure what the term 'semi-synthetic' might mean.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil

.

bowtieguy 02-02-2008 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Greybrick (Post 90184)
Since about the late 1990's when Castrol by court order was allowed the use of the word 'synthetic' to describe group III refined dino based oils, 'synthetic' really has no meaning and doesn't give any basis for chosing an engine or gear lubricant imo. Go figure what the term 'semi-synthetic' might mean.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil

.

this is why my source tells me to use a PAO(maybe POA) based synthetic. they are legit... amsoil and mobile 1 have this base for sure.

Greybrick 02-02-2008 01:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bowtieguy (Post 90185)
this is why my source tells me to use a PAO(maybe POA) based synthetic. they are legit... amsoil and mobile 1 have this base for sure.

Poly-Alpha-Olefin (PAO) based oils are excellent in that they are stable and don't pick up fuel water by-products either, but because of their lack of polarity they don't carry friction reducing additives well so they need to be mixed with either polarity type ester oils or dino based oils for that function. The end of the day tale is found in VOA /UOA oil analysis comparisions though imo. Check out BITOG for further;

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

Greybrick 02-04-2008 02:01 PM

Motul USA;

https://www.motorspot.com/index1.html


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