CRX to VX Pictures are up
 

Those who have asked for pictures of the HF to VX swap can go to the following link.

Click on the album and the pictures should enlarge except for picture 1 which is a thumbnail. Look at the top of the pictures for the title and to the right of that for the green arrow to scroll through.

https://fabmaster.pictiger.com/albums/

To read the article look in Forums for "How To."

OOOOOOOOOOOOOO :) :thumbup: :D :thumbup: :) :thumbup:

Great job on the pics! Quite detailed and informative - will have my mechanic review them when I get a D15Z1 swap into a 2nd gen CRX HF.

What is the woodworking project(s) you are gluing up? Noticed a big glue-up under the HF on the rack, something taped off for finishing in another pic...? Total aside - but you even titled one of the pics about two projects at once.

Just curious, why the teggy fuel filter setup? Nice job on the fuel line - I did enjoy the pics, and any visual write-up like this is always nice, plus the full write-up you did.

The shots of the wiring you did were great. The attention to detail on this conversion is wonderful - many things look better than factory when you were done with them. KUDOS!

Thats a lot of work, cant wait for the MPG numbers...

GOOD JOB!

The glue-up under the car is a countertop part of a kitchen remodel for a job that is quite high-end and that is now complete in Sacramento, CA. Custom fabrication, on whatever, is what I do. If any one is interested, I also will be showing some other pics of a couple auto body projects, a 34 pontiac and a 69 charger that were pretty extreme!!!! I may put some of the kitchen up, too.

There are more pics and info to come for the CRX VX project.

Thanks for all of the positive responses.

Integra fuel filter
 

I chose the Integra fuel filter because it used banjo fittings and not metric threaded flare fittings. I couldn't find a -6 AN fitting to metric flare. But I could find the metric banjo to -6 AN at Summit Racing. I urge everyone that uses aftermarket fuel lines to only use the teflon/butyl lined hoses that are impervious to all fuels. A steel braided line was purchased at Tognotti's Auto World in Sacramento, CA. This is to replace the hard line (just installed) that passes through the body due to the fact that the pulses that this fuel pump puts out are generating an annoying vibration. I contacted Earl's Performance Plumbing to discuss my situation and they directed me to the closest vendor which is Tognotti's and gave me the parts numbers #600006 for the fuel line sold by the foot. And, # 600136 for the -6 straight fittings. This fix is yet to be done. Live and learn. There will be more changes for sure. Will try to keep you updated.

I was just wondering if anyone noticed in photo 8, the aluminum hood? It was fabed right after the car first arrived here. It weighs about half what the factory hood weighed.

Aluminum Hood
 

I noticed quite a lot of shine underneath the hood - didn't know it was aluminum. How was it custom fabbed?

At 50% weight, wouldn't it only be 65% as strong as a steel hood? According to my research, aluminum is 30% lighter at the same weight as steel, so it would be more prone to crumple in a crash and not absorb as much impact?

Tell us more about the hood - I am ALL for saving weight and would love to get a non-stock hood (carbon fiber, aluminum?) for a CRX, not to mention other body parts.

Custom woodworking
 

I thought that the woodworking stuff was especially neat. I used to have a custom cabinet shop down in Southern California, and really love high-end cabinetry. You should post more about that in the off-topic forums - it's fun sometimes to see other overlapping interests by members. I for one would love to see more pics of your woodworking. I've thoroughly enjoyed both your write-ups and pictures, and how you answer all questions put to you.

The Hood 'n the Wood

Started with the original hood and used a hand-held grinder splitting the fold-over on the edge all the way around the perimeter of the hood. This allowed separation of the steel skin from the reinforcement bracing and maintained the reinforcement bracing as the substrait since it is so thin and weighs almost nothing. Using the original skin as the template, I duplicated the shape in .050 6061-T6 aluminum (as you likely know, most fabricators working with aluminum use dead soft 303). The original hood skin is .030 mild steel. With the use of my English wheel, Pullmax P5, sheetmetal brake and an assortment of hand tools, I formed and attached the new skin to the bracing, folded it around and glued it on just as the factory did.

As for the strength of materials, the 6061-T6 aluminum is 66% thicker. It is aircraft grade and has a yield-point value of 40 Ksi, tensil strength 45 Ksi; the mild steel 1020 has a yield-point value of 50 Ksi, tensil strength 64 Ksi.
With the 66% increase in thickness, the T6 surpasses the factory hood yield point value by 16.4 Ksi, tensil strength by 10.7 Ksi. Even with the increase in material thickness, the hood has a weight reduction of 43.26%, an increased yield-point value of 32.8% and a tensil strength increase of 16.72%.

Go to: https://https://fabmaster.pictiger.com/albums/ for photo 8 pic.

As for woodworking, since you asked, I will plan on doing a write-up and pics in the Off-topic forum. That will need to be a little later as it has to be prepared and my work is calling.

This message has also reappeared in the How To/Do it Yourself thread.