1994 honda civic cx questions.
 

hi i am new to gassavers.org i have owned and modified many hondas in the past i had i delsol with a built turbo gsr motor that put down around 350hp. also a n/a gsr power civic hatch that put down 185hp. now i own a bone stock 1994 civic cx i just purchaced. and the only mods i want to do to it is fuel mileage mods. i am picking up a set of vx wheels this weekend.
I also pan on doing a full tune up cap.rotor,wires,plugs,high temp termostat, and do plan on running 50psi in the tires. my questions are what are the best plugs to run? also with fuel tuning if any one here has played with it? i am told most cars come from the factory running 20-30% richer that they should. on my n/a hatch i had a apex vafc, vtec controler and i was able to coutrol the fuel by 50% up or down. has any one tryed this with a stock cx/or vx? what kind of mpg numbers did you get? thanks

run OEM plugs. NGK ONLY.

just keep the ECU stock. you can run it leaner, but i don't think there's any point. all AFC/piggyback devices are worthless, especially on hondas. if you are set on tuning AFRs and timing, socket the ECU and edit the OEM maps with CROME.

honda tunes the part throttle/cruising afrs to ~15:1-stoich which is just fine, IMO

I agree with EH3 100%.

Nobody can make a generalization like "Honda runs their calibrations 30% rich" and be referring to the entire fuel map. They are talking about WOT / high load. If you have the right equipment and know-how you can pick up some hp by leaning out that portion of the map slightly. But the mpg gains are going to be minimal because when you put the pedal to the floor, your intention is not to save gas. And if you don't know what you're doing you will damage your engine.

If you get a standalone you can pick up some mpg by fine tuning the ignition and fuel. But buying a standalone for this reason only is not cost-effective.