The best way to use a HIIC engine is running at its absolutely best efficiency, charging an accumulator with a variable displacement pump that reduces displacement while the exactly same load is maintained on the engine until the accumulated pressure is 80% of max (to allow for capturing 1 70-0 mph stop). No throttle plate.
IT would launch like a catapult, 3 seconds of accumulated pressure, plus a full regen would be 1000 hp-seconds on tap.
I have no idea what the above 2 posts have to do with the original question ??
Yes , I would agree with the original poster , and do the first oil and filter change much earlier than the book is suggesting. I have a new car getting delivered (after about a year !!) this month , and plan to change oil and filter after 1000 miles.
Why ? ... I'm an engineer , and it can only do good ... NOT harrm. (Of course it may not do any good , but it's good insurance , as I plan to have the car for a long time)
Has HCCI really become real world? When I first read about this technology it bothered me that I knew that if the final products ended up running on gas (most likely), everyone would call them gas engines, and if they ended up running on diesel fuel (not likely), everyone would call them diesels. But really, what we have with HCCI is a little of both ICE types. Fuel requirement and engine type are really two separate things. HCCI is both compression and spark ignition. The reason I don't like it is because it minimizes the importance of diesel technologies used to create an HCCI engine and many people will erroneously believe that spark-ignition won out over diesel technologies, and that is just not right.
My experience has shown me that oil changes are cheap insurance.
Every first oil should be done at 1000 miles.
After that do 4000 mile changes. After that first 4000 mile oil change take a used oil sample send it to blackstone labs. Don't keep the same oil in the engine for more then 4 months.
By doing this you can better judge your oil change intervals. Every person and car is different.
Figure out a way to keep your warranty and do your own oil changes.
There are too many bad or rushing mechanics out there. I could not stress this more. yes even factory dealer shops make mistakes. If you must go some where to get your oil changed, find a local person that works to build a relationship with you. Also don't drop your car off to some one with out cleaning the inside and outside. Mechanics will see how you keep your car and treat it better, more then likely. Some of the best mechanics never advertise and are booked up for a month. Plan ahead, reach out and find a shop with no more then 3 mechanics. Place should be booked up for at minimum of 3 weeks. These places don't advertise because they don't need to.
If your putting 15 to 20 k miles a year on your car, buy oil and filters in bulk. The stuff wont go bad sitting in a sealed jug. For the every day driver simply buy name brand. I personally would only use Castrol or Mobil.
I remember an ancient Popular Mechanics article where the author wrote that he never changed his oil and used a roll of toilet paper for a filter, just regularly replacing the toilet paper.
Oldest brother's stupid father-in-law bought a new 1966 Olds Toronado, drove it 40k miles without even checking the oil, until the engine seized. He once was fairly rich, now bankrupt and dead.
I might send a sample to Blackstone when I hit 100k miles, but at 28.5k with no consumption and the oil is not even that dirty looking (at 6k on current change) I will wait before spending that on anything other than 5 quart jugs (good for 2 changes) and a 15k rated filter. At that rate my total cost will be $210 for 100k in oil change materials.
How do "contaminants suspended in the oil" get through the oil filter to block passageways. The filter would have to be completely plugged before the bypass valve opened and allowed unfiltered oil to circulate through the engine.
I consider my 7500 mile changes to be MY best compromise, especially with a 2.5 quart capacity oil change(middle of the scale on the dipstick) with filters every 15k. It also gives me leverage in case of a warranty issue. Also easy to remember. Buy the 5 quarts and filter, change both, left over 2.5 quarts requires no filter replacement. I do drain the filter.
$.0021 per mile. Not worth doubling the change intervals to save 100 bucks in 100k miles.
The filter could be plugged up enough to open the bypass in little as 1000 miles. I once changed just the filter at 5000 miles. After about 300 miles, the oil had gone from black to just slightly cloudy brown. It's those contaminants that turn the oil black. Even when not plugged, it isn't an ultrafilter, and tiny stuff gets through.
The additive package has detergents to keep those contaminants suspended and from settling out in areas of higher flow and pressure, like narrow channels.
Ever run an engine oil pump with an electric drill on a freshly rebuilt engine to pre lube everything. Very little chance of "settling" with oil shooting 10 feet straight up in the air. The sump is your "primary separator". Filter is the secondary separator. Air cooled VWs had no real sump and no filter.
I've looked inside engines with over 500k miles (800k plus KM). With regular service in most cases wear patterns are minimal with modern lubricants. I've also seen the consequences of severe neglect. One 200SX with 540,000 miles that had never seen the cylinder head removed, was so rusty you could see the cardboard of the inner door trim from outside the closed door, with the engine's valve train undistinguishable from a brand new engine and no need to add oil between change intervals.
Why would you change the filter without changing the oil? I think there is more pertinent information not available in your post, requiring any analysis of the situation, as presented, to be flawed due to insufficient information.
The whole scenario is not related to an inquiry on oil change intervals in "New" engines.