Question: Higher idle after spark plug replacement - Page 2 - Fuelly Forums

Click here to see important news regarding the aCar App

Go Back   Fuelly Forums > Tech, Troubleshooting and Repair > General Maintenance and Repair
Today's Posts Search Click Here to Login
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 07-15-2008, 03:16 PM   #11
Registered Member
 
thornburg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 162
Country: United States
Quote:
Originally Posted by dkjones96 View Post
It's possible for this to happen. The more efficient combustion from the new parts can cause the engine to run a little higher at idle.

We get this at work all the time on older carbbed engines and notice that the IACV closes a little more at idle. If you have a EFI you should take a look at your IACV to make sure it's working correctly.
There don't seem to be any directions relating to the IACV on autozone's onine manual... I haven't checked my Hanes yet. Where do I find it, and how do I check it?

Jay2TheRescue: Perhaps I'll see if I can borrow a timing light... I looked at the timing procedure, and it looks like I don't need to take off the timing cover. It mentions (if necessary) loosening the "pinch bolts" on the distributor and twisting it to adjust the timing... The pinch bolts aren't regular screws, are they? I'll have to figure out what those are... The stupid autozone manual only has pictures of what it wants to have pictures of, and the haynes book has only a few pictures and they are mostly of different engines than mine.
__________________

__________________
thornburg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2008, 03:22 PM   #12
Site Team / Moderator
 
Jay2TheRescue's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 4,723
Country: United States
Location: Northern Virginia
Quote:
Originally Posted by thornburg View Post
There don't seem to be any directions relating to the IACV on autozone's onine manual... I haven't checked my Hanes yet. Where do I find it, and how do I check it?

Jay2TheRescue: Perhaps I'll see if I can borrow a timing light... I looked at the timing procedure, and it looks like I don't need to take off the timing cover. It mentions (if necessary) loosening the "pinch bolts" on the distributor and twisting it to adjust the timing... The pinch bolts aren't regular screws, are they? I'll have to figure out what those are... The stupid autozone manual only has pictures of what it wants to have pictures of, and the haynes book has only a few pictures and they are mostly of different engines than mine.
Its usually a bolt with a U shaped bracket that clamps down on the distributor to keep it from shifting. On most cars you can't get straight at it. You will probably need a distributor wrench to get at it. They are cheap and available at any parts store. A good thing to have if you plan on working on your own cars.

-Jay
__________________

__________________








Jay2TheRescue is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2008, 05:31 PM   #13
Registered Member
 
guest001's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 198
Country: United States
well, just a little theory. advancing the timing increases rpm. If your cap, rotor, plugs, wires where all out of spec/worn or one or two where in not so great condition, I could see a slight increase in rpm after bring all these components back up to new condition. less resistence, technically the spark would fire sooner. increasing the rpm as if you increased timing. Interesting though, I've never really seen this, but it makes sense.
guest001 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2008, 04:27 AM   #14
Registered Member
 
thornburg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 162
Country: United States
I couldn't get any time to look at the car last night, but I did have an idea this morning...

The car was a little hard to start this morning (didn't take more than one try, but it cranked longer than usual before starting, and sounded a little different). Last night, I filled up at the gas station a little less than a mile from my house, so the car was started, and then not run for very long.

What if my battery is dying? If the battery is toast, that would cause the alternator to run more, right? Would that increase idle RPM? I'm building a house of cards here, since I know very little about cars/engines...

I have no idea how old the battery is. The positive terminal was all covered in crud, so I cleaned it & the connector with a wire brush while I had the battery out for the distributor cap.
__________________
thornburg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2008, 04:48 AM   #15
Site Team / Moderator
 
Jay2TheRescue's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 4,723
Country: United States
Location: Northern Virginia
Quote:
Originally Posted by thornburg View Post
I couldn't get any time to look at the car last night, but I did have an idea this morning...

The car was a little hard to start this morning (didn't take more than one try, but it cranked longer than usual before starting, and sounded a little different). Last night, I filled up at the gas station a little less than a mile from my house, so the car was started, and then not run for very long.

What if my battery is dying? If the battery is toast, that would cause the alternator to run more, right? Would that increase idle RPM? I'm building a house of cards here, since I know very little about cars/engines...

I have no idea how old the battery is. The positive terminal was all covered in crud, so I cleaned it & the connector with a wire brush while I had the battery out for the distributor cap.
How old is the battery? I don't think this is your problem though. Have you considered the possibility that you got a bad tank of fuel? Maybe there was some water in the tanks at the station.

-Jay
__________________








Jay2TheRescue is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2008, 05:54 AM   #16
Registered Member
 
kamesama980's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 742
Country: United States
Location: Columbus, IN, USA
Send a message via AIM to kamesama980 Send a message via Yahoo to kamesama980
I'd get the battery tested, most shops and parts stores will do it for free. if they say it's bad, get a new one.

Other than that, I wouldn't worry about it, especially only 90 rpm. It's probably that with all your new parts your car has the power to idle higher with a load (IE: in gear, foot on brake). Hell, my truck varies +/-100 rpm just from a mildly dirty IACV.
__________________
-Russell
1991 Toyota Pickup 22R-E 2.4 I4/5 speed
1990 Toyota Cressida 7M-GE 3.0 I6/5-speed manual
mechanic, carpenter, stagehand, rigger, and know-it-all smartass
"You don't get to judge me for how I fix what you break"
kamesama980 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2008, 01:58 PM   #17
Registered Member
 
guest001's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 198
Country: United States
load test without a vat 40 ;-)
guest001 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2008, 02:06 PM   #18
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 689
Country: United States
Harder starting and/or rough idleing could be another sign of a vacuum leak. I don't think the battery would be an issue in this, but I guess anything is possible. Does your car have an idle speed control motor or idle air control valve? I have had them go bad before and the engine idle would change, but if that was the problem your ECU should be sending a code.
__________________
Hipermiler
#47 on my way to #1
Ford Man is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2008, 03:10 PM   #19
Site Team / Moderator
 
Jay2TheRescue's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 4,723
Country: United States
Location: Northern Virginia
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ford Man View Post
Harder starting and/or rough idleing could be another sign of a vacuum leak. I don't think the battery would be an issue in this, but I guess anything is possible. Does your car have an idle speed control motor or idle air control valve? I have had them go bad before and the engine idle would change, but if that was the problem your ECU should be sending a code.
I remember years ago following my grandfather to the dealer to get his Grand Marquis worked on. It barely ran, was hard to start, and idled like crap. yeah the car was 8 years old, but only had 40,00 miles on it. The dealer called back a few hours later. The problem: a $0.89 vacuum tee had fatigued and snapped. They replaced it, and charged him an hour for diagnostic services and labor. The car ran great after that.
__________________








Jay2TheRescue is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2008, 05:46 PM   #20
Registered Member
 
thornburg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 162
Country: United States
Thanks for all these tips. I should have some time tomorrow night and/or Friday to actually look into it.
__________________

__________________
thornburg is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
US / metric switching problems gory Fuelly Web Support and Community News 4 01-24-2011 02:04 AM
Tracking Monthly Fuel Expense Taser Fuelly Web Support and Community News 2 11-09-2009 11:40 PM
Picture / data issues fbobberts Fuelly Web Support and Community News 10 07-18-2009 12:11 AM
Timing chain and FE bowtieguy Experiments, Modifications and DIY 22 11-11-2007 08:48 AM
pulse up or pulse down a hill, higher or lower gear perris Hypermiling 9 07-16-2007 09:33 PM

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 03:56 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.