^True, I'd like a pedal that's less stiff than some of the 'more recent' Si models I've had the privilege of driving. My VX pedal feels loosey goosey.
I'll see what this shop says about increased labor. The shop isn't horrible on labor(I think they charge $70 per hour?). I hope it's worth it, but knowing how thorough these guys are they may recommend maintenance of intervals if the casing is pulled, but IDK I'm a newbie.
[QUOTE=add|ct;162475 It seems like that noise is over by the drive belts, though, the ISB or mainshaft bearing(same part?).
The mainshaft bearing is at the outer part of the case near the passenger side so if it's the ISB instead, it's a little more difficult to replace because you need to remove a lot of parts to get at it. You almost have to anyway since you have to inspect that all bearings are okay. In my VX only the mainshaft bearing was bad. I replaced it and put 90K miles on the S20 tranny without issue. It had 240K when I gave it to my bro.
You will need to cough up more the 3.5 bills to do the clutch and tranny repair. If so, you might want to start looking for another S20 tranny from the "used" car part store aka bone yard for another one.
I need to rev match at times(middle of the day, full A/C in stop and go traffic, try to turn a/c off upon initial acceleration), and try to do this as a habit anyway since the synchros are probably very worn by now.
If one had to divide these jobs up, could you replace the ISB or mainshaft bearing without doing a clutch replacement this time?
Which is more of an issue to do if ISB or mainshaft can be verified to be an issue(though I'm not sure yet if this is the case) I believe I'm simply having worn clutch symptoms, the idle noise I hear is when the idle drops relatively low(appears to go below the 500 RPM mark) and this causes a slightly 'off' hood to make vibration on the driver side. If I hold it down(the hood) the rattle goes away, also disengaging the clutch(pedal depressed) makes the noise quiet, though it's not sounding like all the youtube videos of guys with ISB or mainshaft bearing issues.
Anyways, I'd like to avoid 1 huge bill if possible and I'm not in a position to do this kind of work myself.
The trans has to be pulled for both jobs (clutch and ISB). If the mechanic was doing the ISB, it would just take an extra 20 min or so to replace the clutch (unless the flywheel needs to be resurfaced).
You could do one without the other, but it would be much more expensive in the long run.
Ah, I see. The mechanic told me up front their way of handling this(without replacing ISB), would include a re-surface of the flywheel. So, I may just ask them to inspect and get a solid replacement ISB to replace the current one.
I'm considering so far either SACHS and the Altrom(mid-grade option from Napa I suppose?), regarding the clutch kit. Not sure of exedy, but initial reading seems interesting.
Most kits I'm seeing tend to include a replacement release bearing, but I wonder if the pilot bearing is of any consequence since it's going to be on the other side of the flywheel upon removal of the flywheel to re-surface?
Also, I just realized these issues with the symptoms of stop 'n go 'lug' perhaps was related to the CVs(reman from 16 months ago now) that went bad recently(started popping at the outer most CVs at both wheels)...this could have created somewhat of a drag on the vehicle on top of full on AC 100+ degree heat index. Replaced with new "GPS" brand CVs from AAP, so we'll see how they last. If all else fails, I'm just going to pay the extra $180-$200 more for original Honda CV half shafts.
Still with the old clutch. The shop I'm using won't charge more(if so, maybe 1/2 hour labor only) to replace the Input Shaft Bearing while replacing the clutch components. I can get a dealer bearing for $20-$25.
I'm probably going to get the stock EXEDY replacement kit, seen here: