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Old 08-02-2007, 04:32 PM   #11
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So hot it's cool...

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Originally Posted by s2man View Post
On the trannie cooler: Unless it's thermostatically controlled, I believe you need to install that BEFORE the radiator (I'm dredging stuff up from the hot-rod days here) . The trannie needs to run in a certain temperature range, so running the fluid through the radiator not only cools it, but guarantees it returns to the trans at a decent temp (180-200?). A thermostic cooler will also ensure the trannie fluid is not over cooled.

rh77 - Speaking of trannie coolers, I've got one you can have for free. Just let me know if you're interested.
Thanks for the offer, man. What I'd like to do first is to install a temp sensor/gauge to see what I'm dealing with. BTW, does it install inline with the cooler lines?

The problem I have in the Winter is getting things up to temp for the TC to kick-in. Even with a grille block installed and the block heater, it's hesitant to heat up and lock-up -- would the cooler help regulate temp too, or just bring the temp down?

When I had my Evo, the oil cooler and trans cooler would get caked-up with snow and blocked airflow, so I had to monitor the gauges on the 2 days it snowed here

-Rick
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Old 08-02-2007, 05:50 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Blue03Civic View Post
A change to synthetic would definitely help, and opening your grill block a little so that the flow goes over the transmission cooler would be beneficial as well. Have you considered installing a small electric fan on your transmission cooler? Maybe that would help too, maybe a PC case fan?
I've seen a small factory electric fan on either a BMW or Mercedes (i forgot what one). I had it on a lift and seen it sticking out from all the under car belly pans. I'm guessing its a little boost to keep the air flowing from the trans area. it was about a 5 inch fan pointing to the ground by the trans pan.
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Old 08-05-2007, 09:52 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rh77 View Post
Thanks for the offer, man. What I'd like to do first is to install a temp sensor/gauge to see what I'm dealing with. BTW, does it install inline with the cooler lines?
You bet. Sounds like a good idea to see what you're working with, before you start making mod's. The cooler is a typical tube and fin, radiator-type, heat exchanger. It is ~11x16in, with two rubber hoses attached on one end. You could cut the metal trannie line going into your radiator, and reconnect the lines with the rubber hoses. But I prefer to unscrew the nut-shaped fitting which holds the line to the radiator. Then I get an identical fitting and 6" of tubing, and attach that to the radiator. This method reverts to stock config much easier.


Quote:
Originally Posted by rh77 View Post
The problem I have in the Winter is getting things up to temp for the TC to kick-in. Even with a grille block installed and the block heater, it's hesitant to heat up and lock-up -- would the cooler help regulate temp too, or just bring the temp down?
It doesn't sound like you'd want any uncontrolled cooling in the winter, then. This cooler has no controls or fans. It has to be mounted where it will get airflow, like in front or behind the radiator. And that's why the fluid needs to go through it before the radiator; to guarantee a minimum oil return temp. Coolers which have thermostats and fans can be mounted after the fluid flows through the radiator, and should be mounted out of the air flow. I think one of these would provide cooling in the summer, if you need it, and yet do little/none in the winter, when you certainly don't want it.

Have fun, and let us know what you find out with that temp gauge.
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Old 08-05-2007, 10:29 AM   #14
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Rick,

I think a cooler is only going to bring temps down in the winter, and thats going to kick out the TC.

Plus Acura is a high end name, I'm sure they tested your car in NYC crazy stop and go and desert heat like in death valley, and if they didn't put a cooler on it stock then my thinking is that its unnecessary. In fact just putting synthetic transmission fluid in should help regulate the temps better along with the stock system that pushes the trans oil thru the radiator....
Especially since you plan on using Amsoil...
~Will
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Old 08-06-2007, 09:29 AM   #15
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Old 08-06-2007, 03:43 PM   #16
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don't forget to flare your metal tranny lines if you cut into them or they will blow right off from pressure
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Old 08-11-2007, 04:25 PM   #17
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12V Circulation pump?

Has anyone experimented with adding a circulation pump in-line with the trans cooler, since for a cooler to truly benefit anyone EOCing fluid has to be flowing?

Here's my idea:
Mount a circulation pump close to the radiator. Connect to the return line, maybe add a 180F thermostat inline to trigger the pump. That way while EOCing you don't even have to think about it.

But I know jack about things, so I don't know if it would require some sort of bypass for when the ICE is running normally. Online I saw pumps around the $200 mark.
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Old 10-06-2007, 03:47 PM   #18
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Synthetic tranny fluid will help lower friction, which will lower your transmission temp and help mileage.

http://www.lubedealer.com/T&SMay/
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Old 10-07-2007, 02:57 AM   #19
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Dig around on the 4wd, or proformance car online parts stores, and you will find a lot of options. They sell a cooler/fan assy that can be mounted anywere. Also I have seen one that is a huge heat sink. Its a few feet long, and about 3" in dia, and has heatsink fins all over it. The hotrod guys mount it on the frame rails.
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Old 01-01-2008, 12:14 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ffvben View Post
don't forget to flare your metal tranny lines if you cut into them or they will blow right off from pressure
With the Saturn S-Series transmission (TAAT) it has 1/4" NPT to quick-disconnect adaptors on it that you can take off and install 1/4" NPT hose barbs. I tried it and it works great! If you get a thermostat for the transmission be sure to connect it the right way - otherwise you'll get some nasty pressure buildup that will spray fluid from every transmission crevice.
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