I was thinking about building a frame fer the rear pan but now that I have the majority of the belly pan supported and the cross members in, I should be able to fasten/attach 2 sheets of 4mm coroplast together with the correct slope and make it frameless.
I will still have to put a strip of aluminum flashing as a heat shield on the rear pan though...
This should make the rear pan as lightweight as possible and I should be able to attach with some simple pins at the front and rear attachment points. This will allow me to easily remove it to git to my spare tire when I need to...
Why are you using pop rivets? Steel stud screws are much quicker/easier to install, remove, and reuse...although they won't work where you need them to be flush, of course.
Why are you using pop rivets? Steel stud screws are much quicker/easier to install, remove, and reuse...although they won't work where you need them to be flush, of course.
The pop rivets are only fer the flare outs...everything else has screws or bolts.
Got my "Z" brackets fabbed (reused my "L" brackets that I had previously used on the body mounts) and installed...almost ready to put on the rear pan...
I already have the rear pan/diffuser parts cut. I just have to make 6 more cuts so I can box the frame in...then I can put the skin on that and mount it on the truck!
Awesome! This is really a great thread and a great build. I'm looking forward to hearing some new numbers on you MPG gains!
Also, raising that rear section higher than the middle section should be providing you with SOME net downforce. I wonder what impact the angle of that last section might eventually have on FE. I guess I'd angle it to how much load was in the back... Angled up higher with greater down force for an empty truck, maybe flat across for hauling a load? (or even lower for increased lift?)
I look at this thread everyday. Very impressed. Keep it up!
B
Re: T-100 belly pan and side skirts...
Linear Mode
