Connect the pot to the controller and turn it on - in the 0 rpm position and read the voltage across the wires on the pot. Something comes to mind that there was a safety feature on the controller that would shut it down if there was no pot connected in case the wires broke or something. Anyway there should be plenty of info on the controller on the web about the inner workings and how the pot connects to the internal circuits. You do want to use a good pot that will not wear out under constant use. Yes I saw the resistor across the power relay - that should do the trick.
Oh man, you sure do get the lake effect, don't you. I do hope you are talking about degrees C, not F. It was a balmy -17 C at my house this morning in still air, but now it's ~-21 C with the wind chill.
Reality is merely an illusion, albeit a very persistent one. - Albert Einstein
Well crud. Just missed out on an eBay auction for a potbox that had all the right specs.
Got another price for a Curtis replacement pot: $45 CDN. That, to me, is just insane, considering you can go into radio shack and get a 5K pot for $2. But the standard seems to be 300 degrees of rotation, not 50.
It's looking like buying the replacement will be the route to take.
I just hate spending 5% of our total budget on a wee potentiometer