Well, I have replaced the plugs, wires, air filter, and starter. The idle did go down. It sits at maybe 8-900 when coasting at 30-35MPH. And will go down to 4-500 when at a stop. There is also no shake when idling at a stop at 400 whereas before there was a shake idling at 650 at a stop.
I am very happy to say the least . Now for an ignition kill switch so my locks don't unlock and lock every time I shut the engine off for a coast .
There is a way to make the engine idle at 400-500 even while coasting. When the engine is fully warmed and it is idling, unplug the idle-speed control and the engine will always idle at the same speed whether you're moving or not. If you do this, you will have to ever so slightly press the gas pedal when you start the engine when it's cold. I did this with my SL2 last winter and had no significant problems.
__________________
__________________
Horsepower is how hard you hit the wall, torque is how much of the wall you take with you.
There is a way to make the engine idle at 400-500 even while coasting. When the engine is fully warmed and it is idling, unplug the idle-speed control and the engine will always idle at the same speed whether you're moving or not. If you do this, you will have to ever so slightly press the gas pedal when you start the engine when it's cold. I did this with my SL2 last winter and had no significant problems.
Interesting tidbit of knowledge. Would that work on a 95 sw2?
__________________
2008 EPA adjusted:
Distance traveled by bicycle in 2007= 1,830ish miles
Average commute speed=25mph (yes, that's in a car)
I never had it happen to me but my son, who drives the car now, has had it happen only once or twice. He just reset it with the Scanguage and didn't have any more problems.
__________________
Horsepower is how hard you hit the wall, torque is how much of the wall you take with you.
I never had it happen to me but my son, who drives the car now, has had it happen only once or twice. He just reset it with the Scanguage and didn't have any more problems.
I have had mine set a code for too slow of an idle a couple times but it has not been a regular problelm.
Well, I have driven my car another 60 miles or so. The idle when put in neutral at highway speeds drops to ~600, jumps to 1100 for a second, and then drops back down to ~600 for good. Not sure if this means my idle controller is actually bad. I will leave it as is for now, doesn't bother me
Well, its wasting fuel while it messes around, I'd say. There was a "still bad mpg" thread on Saturnforums where the IAC was the problem child causing bad mpg