Generally, a miscalibrated speedometer/odometer is not linear either, but rather a percentage. Calibrate your ScanGauge to 1.9% to start with if you want it to be accurate to the GPS.

However, for the sake of easy comparison and clarity, I recommend calibrating the ScanGauge to match your speedometer/odometer. Otherwise, you'll need to adjust your odometer reading when you log your gas purchases.

Or, calibrate the Scangauge to match the GPS, then use the trip mileage reading from the Scangauge when entering data into your fuel log. That would be the most accurate.

i installed my scangauge a few days ago and today i installed a WAI.

for the WAI i connected a 3" dryer vent to the stock air intake tube and ran it right up to the exhaust manifold. before i installed the WAI i was getting 5-10 degrees warmer than the outside air temps. now with the WAI installed i am getting about 30 degrees warmer. i saw some people on the forum running shrouds around their exhaust manifolds and getting some very high temps. any words of wisdom on tweeking my WAI? are you guys tweeking your WAI's in the summer? i wouldnt think that the manufactures would make the air temp range on the computers go much above 120 or 140 degrees

The one thing I keep seeing people mention is that they try to keep the air temp under 200F.

i was messing with the placement of the air intake pipe by the exhaust manifold on my WAI today and it seems that the max i can get the temp up is about 40 degrees above outside air temps. so i am thinking i should build a shroud around my exhaust manifold.

on some highway driving today the air intake temp went up to about 50 degrees above outside air temp. i was surprised to see the temps on the highway to be higher than city driving/idling. will this 50+ temp stay the same in the summer?

also sometimes it takes my scangauge about 10 seconds to start operating is this typical?

my first tank of gas the scangage said i used 2 more gallons of gas than i actually did. i adjusted the gas usage. i am just writing some of this stuff so if someone does a search they can find this info.

If you're talking about 10 seconds from when you start the car, then yes this is normal. If you're talking about delayed readings this can be normal as well. There is a communications speed setting in the SG setup. I tried Fast before on my vehicle, and it caused problems.

When the SG communication was on fast, the dashboard clock would reset to 12:00 each time the vehicle was started, the CD player would not work, the radio presets would erase, and if I stopped and turned the key from run to accessory to park and listen to the radio, the radio would shut off when the SG shut off. (About 10 seconds after the engine is shut down). As it is now it works well enough, my readings may be delayed by a second or two, but I don't have to reset everything every time I start the vehicle.

I would say to wait until the summer to really tweak your WAI. if you tweak it on the hottest days, then you are good year round.

I made my shroud out of window flashing (from lowes). very inexpensive and depending on your hobbies, friends, job, etc.. you may have some laying around.

I put mine in and the hottest I have ever seen is 179. I think my delta is around 70ish degrees above outside temp. (all that is in degrees F)

if you don't tweak it during the summer, you will have to retweak it when the summer gets here. (not that it is really a big deal to do that).

The mythbusters episode was ONE TRUCK. I can tell you I DID get better mileage in a 1998 Nissan Frontier. 180K miles with the tailgate DOWN and averaging 36 MPG proven. I wish I'd kept that truck.

I DID keep it at 55 not 60+ to achieve such mileage, btw - ALL highway miles pretty much.

A transmission regear and/or a better differential can help if it's a RWD - if it's FWD then you'll need a transmission regear. TOTALLY possible to get 40+ mpg from a truck.

HAI will really help too. K&N filters have been tried with much success, you either like 'em or you hate 'em. Works GREAT on my CRX.

Someday you will need to replace them. Put on the largest diameter tires your truck can wear. A cheap, quick way to go to higher gearing.

Drive in the highest gear, using the least throttle possible.
Start off at idle and gradually add throttle, like the big trucks.

You might mount a vaccuum gauge on the dash, so you can keep running at the best throttle setting.

The A/C causes an imperceptible drag when off. The clutch disengages everything, so it probibly uses no more fuel than an 'idler' pully.
And, you'll get better MPG with the windows closed, at highway speeds, plus, the wind blowing in your ears won't cause tinnitis like it did me.

https://www.fuelly.com/attachments/fo...77c46907e3.jpg

just trying to post pics. so if it goes through it will be a pic of my HAI

i moved the air intake around today and got 60+ degrees. i think i will leave it alone and not make the shroud.

do you guys take the readings for your gas log from your scangauge, odometer or gps.

[IMG]<div style="width:480px;text-align:right;"><embed width="480" height="360" src="https://static.pbsrc.com/flash/rss_slideshow.swf" flashvars="rssFeed=http%3A%2F%2Ffeed964.photobucke t.com%2Falbums%2Fae130%2Fcarmine580%2Ffeed.rss" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" /><a href="https://photobucket.com/redirect/album?showShareLB=1" target="_blank"><img src="https://pic.pbsrc.com/share/icons/embed/btn_geturs.gif" style="border:none;" /></a><a href="https://s964.photobucket.com/albums/ae130/carmine580/" target="_blank"><img src="https://pic.pbsrc.com/share/icons/embed/btn_viewall.gif" style="border:none;" /></a></div>[/IMG]

ok i give up. i tried to use photobucket. dont know where i went wrong

https://www.fuelly.com/attachments/fo...a32036dc70.jpg[/IMG]

one more try

I see you use 'dryer hose' too. Clever.

Explain how hotter, less dense, air improves performance.

Odometer vs. pump is the only consistent and most accurate way.

The odometer always records miles consistently. The gas pump can be inaccurate for one tank (due to variations in when it clicks off while filling), but data from multiple tanks is quite accurate as an average because it's how much gas you actually used.

GPS is subject to various failures (lost satellite, miscalculation, forgot to turn it on, may track only 2D mileage, etc). ScanGauge is very inaccurate for MPG no matter how well you get it dialed in, but it has been consistently accurate as an odometer for me without having to adjust it.

Lower density means less oxygen per volume, which means less fuel injected to react with that oxygen. You could simply not open the throttle as far, but then you face pumping losses. Additionally, the heat helps vaporize the fuel for more complete combustion.

I wonder if air, entering the combustion chamber at 130 degrees as opposed to the cooler factory induction set-up, will have any effect on fuel that is injected?

i will take odometer readings and then multiply them by my corection number taken from my gps over 100 miles. i will just multiply my odometer reading by 1.9 because my gps read was 101.9 miles when my odometer read 100 miles on a straight highwat trip.

here is a pic of my grill block

[IMG]<a href="https://s964.photobucket.com/albums/ae130/carmine580/?action=view&current=truckpics003.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="https://i964.photobucket.com/albums/ae130/carmine580/truckpics003.jpg" border="0" alt="grillblock"></a>[/IMG]

https://www.fuelly.com/attachments/fo...fce365134f.jpg[/IMG]

i meant that i would have to multiply my mileage by 1.019

How To Get 35 MPG Out Of Your Truck

https://pro.corbis.com/images/42-1876...A-26A2C2DFB441

Remove Bike.

as in remove bike, and ride it instead!

has nobody mentioned the idea of lowering the truck yet?

Look at the picture posted earlier of the 35+mpg toyota truck and you'll see some other aero mods.

Have you thought about or looked into any exhaust modifications?

Does anyone make underdrive pulleys for your vehicle?

Do you have a spare tire and jack that can be removed? Anything else that can be ditched?

Have you tried any fuel additives?

lowering the truck seems costly. any idea on the gains i might see in the mpg's?

i did some searches on this website and could not find any info on a 35mpg Toyota truck. do you have any links to the truck?

when it is time for a new exhaust i will get a performance one.

what is a underdrive pulley?

i do have a spare tire mounted under the truck bed. i could take it off.

i have tried acetone. if it made any difference at all it was not measurable. other than acetone i have not tried any additives. which ones would you recommend and are they cost effective?

i don't think that 35 mpg is that far off for my truck because i am getting just above 30 mpg now but i think 40 mpg might be optimistic. i found a guy on ecomodder.com that is getting +3 mpg's out of an aero cap on a Nissan pick up. so if i do that i should be just under the 35 mpg.

Those are some good thoughts, and it's a great idea to remember to try additional strategies. In my observation, exhaust and minor weight loss won't make a difference.

Weight: That truck weighs at least 3200 pounds. At most, the spare and jack could weigh 80 pounds (and I doubt it's that much). With a few exceptions for specific models, I've observed that nobody has reported a credible FE change from adding or removing less than 10% of weight, and trucks usually seem to require even more. Also, it sounds like the OP is doing highway driving; for highway driving, weight has almost zero effect, which is why some very heavy cars have very good highway FE. If you get it for free, I doubt it will hurt anything, at least.

Exhaust: People trying to save fuel tend not to use even a small portion of a stock exhaust's flow capacity. That's doubly true for highway driving. There are some decent arguments to the contrary in the exhaust link in my sig, though. Either way, it's almost assured that an aftermarket exhaust will never pay for itself.

The additional aero mods are definitely a good idea. Some people have success with underdrive pulleys and fuel additives but I'm not sure if they could ever pay for themselves.

on the weight issue. when i first got my scan gauge i had to go for work and pick up 2500 lbs of cement block. i have a small 5x8 enclosed trailer that weighs 700 lbs that i used to pick up the block. it was a 30 mile trip with no real elevation changes pretty much just down the coast and back. on the way to get the block my scan gauge averaged 24 mpg and on the way back with 2500 lbs of block it was averaging 21 mpg. so i could say i lost .833 mpg per 1000 lbs on highway driving

One trip isn't enough data, but even so that's quite interesting. Consider that, towing a trailer, you get additional aerodynamic drag and rolling resistance. Most people experience significant FE loss towing an enclosed trailer.

What 750 pound enclosed trailer is capable of hauling a 2500 pound load? Does the same manufacturer make a 1500 pound flatbed that's good for 5000 pounds? I'd love to get my hands on something like that...not like I could afford it.

i have an all aluminum v nose trailer. i think the name is Thule. but the trailer grosses at 2200 lbs. i had about 1500 lbs in the trailer and 1000 lbs in the bed of the pick up. the pick up tow max is 3500 lbs and the bed of the truck max is about 1200 lbs. yea i pretty much had the truck maxed out. but you cant kill a Toyota truck.

i had a small travel trailer that weighed 3300 lbs that i drove to San Diego (over the rockies) and to key west FLA 2 times. my truck has over 200,000 on the odometer with the stock clutch and i get around 80,000 miles out of the front brakes brakes and the rears are the originals and are still good.

and oh yea its a 4 cylinder

The newer the vehicle, the more difficult modifying engine performance will be because the computer adjusts to keep the engine running within design parameters. Toyota is very good at this.
Basically, the engine will run at the optimum air/fuel ratio under all running conditions and unless you are able to program the computer, you are going to find that things like 'improving breathing' to be noticable only insofar as achieving maximum RPM faster.

ok on my s10 i have lowered it 2" (purely for looks) cost was about $160 (coulda gone cheaper but i decided to go the better route, can cost as low as $30)

i have installed underdrive pullies and they are well worth it (smaller lighter crank pulley and smaller alt pulley) i noticed a bunch more torque and gets up to speed faster. and noticed a 1-2 mpg gain in normal every day driving.

its a truck its meant to haul stuff (ie its gearing is setup to do so) you WILL NOT notice any difference by removing ~90 lbs of a tire and jack.

i did notice (yes this goes aginst alot of stuff ppl say) that when i built my toneau cover that mpg went up by 1 not to mention gained a whole lot of storage thats secure and mostly dry.

DRAFTING i was shocked when i drove 3 hours to chicago behind a charter bus and made it there on 3 gallons...

Now that you mention it, some trucks can be lowered for free by removing lift blocks from a solid rear axle and de-cranking torsion bars on an independent front suspension. However, you should check with a forum for that truck to find out if there are any negative consequences, such as driveshafts at bad angles.

I wonder about the big gaps around the tires and the fenders if closing them off more would help. Lubrication improvement is one place that should help a lot. What about the roof rack??

yes the s-10 extended cabs need angled lowering blocks so the pinion angle doesnt change. regular cab needs flat blocks. (2pc driveshaft on ext cab single shaft on reg cab)

i put some oversized mudflaps on my s-10 that go up far into the wheelwells and it may hav had an effect but not much if any... i have thought about making some sort of rear pan and side pans underneath but not sure i it would help at all...

Some of your questions have already been answered, like the potential cost of lowering, and on thinking of what type of exhaust mods to do- straight "performance" exhaust is probably not the way to go.

But to clear up some things, the picture of the toyota was posted earlier in this thread, here it is again.

https://www.evworld.com/images/pknox_toyota.jpg

take a close look. There a a number of aero mods you can see from this picture alone. And there are articles on this site and elsewhere that talk about this vehicle, you've got to look.

And you've got to look to find out about the underdrive pulley's. google is your friend.

As for lubrication there are a handfull of good ones, and i personally use LCD inc. products

And one last thing, there seems to be an interesting new 'feeling' or 'theme' to the posts on this board since i last posted here some time ago; there is this feeling that if a mod is potentially 'negligible' in it's affect on mileage i.e. the calculations on weight reduction come to mind, then it is seen as to not be 'worth it' or whatever.

I've always been of the opinion that if you're going to do this mileage "thing" you need to always be looking at ways to help, never worrying about the hard numbers each mod impacts mileage, but more the sum of all parts- the knowledge that the general principles of better mileage will succeed, and the more improvements you make the better, even if 'better' is marginal.

So go ahead and tape off the vehicle, take off the spare (while looking for anything else to dump) add aero mods, mess with the engine, mess with the tires, try new driving techniques, and don't stop, and especially don't think that one or two things are going to get you to where you're looking to go.

extraordinary results are from extraordinary efforts.

chesspirate, you make a good point...I generally look at ideas critically with a focus on whether it is worthwhile or not, but really, it's worth experimenting as long as the cost is negligible too.

The whole cost thing is dependent on the vehicle owner for sure. I've seen people blow a LOT of money on performance mods and i've heard of a couple of people spend a LOT of money on efficiency mods, just depends on your priorities, we all have our magic number.