For injector cleaning, I believe the best way is to remove them and send them to be serviced. Two places I've used and would recommend:
Linder Technical Services https://www.lindertech.com/index.html
Cody Motorsports: https://www.codymotorsports.com/

Every time I reinstall reconditioned (or new) injectors, my engine will run noticeably smoother.

In addition, on my big block, they will give me a flow report for each injector and I can match the highest flowing injector(s) to the intake ports with the highest airflow(s) (but you need to have your manifold flowed to benefit from this).

-BC

Looking at the MSDS for many FI cleaners such as BG44K, Chemtool B-12, Marvel Mystery Oil, Techron Concentrate Plus, and Gumout Regane, and those made by RedLine and Amsoil it appears the main ingrediants (in order of most common to least) are: kerosene, a type of naptha (naptha, nathalene, napthenic solvents, mineral spirits (or another type of basic paint thinner), and amido-amine detergents. I'd suggest buying a gallon of kerosene (about $3/gallon right now at a local gas station), buying some marvel mystery oil which is mostly mineral spirits and has plenty of napthenic solvents as well, and some Chemtool B-12 which has a ton of differnet paint thinners in it and amido-amine detergents. Mix them all together and you'll have yourself about 175 oz. of fuel injector cleaner that contains kerosene, mineral spirits, napthenic solvents, a ton of paint thinners (acetone, methyl ehtyl ketones, toulene, xylene, etc.) and amido-amine detergents. These are all the main and most powerful detergents in fuel injector cleaners. Add 17.5 oz. per tank of gas and you're good to go for 10 tanks. A lot cheaper and more effective than buying any individual fuel injector cleaner.

If you wanted additional lubricity I'd suggest putting in some 100% biodiesel as well. I'll have to find the study and post a link again but a study conducted showed that a 50:1 ratio of 100% biodiesel added to regular diesel made a HUGE improvement in the lubricity of the fuel. Way better than two-cycle oil or any other "lubricity additive".

Throw in some Sta-bil and you'll have a FI cleaner that cleans amazingly well, lubricates well, and keeps your gas fresh for a long time as well, seems like it would do it all.

Seafoam ingredients:
Isopropyl Alcohol (rubbing alcohol), pale oil, and naptha.
www.bobistheoilguy.com

Alcohol separates from the gasoline and attracts water, the E10 gasoline already has alcohol. perfect for rust over time.
https://www.factsaboutethanol.org/200...tors-dont-mix/
ethanol is a solvent, seafoam is a waste of money for more alcohol.

a little bit of acetone stops the phase separation of the alcohol, gasoline and water. this is the only thing acetone is good for in gasoline, it does not help mpg as reported, although keeping the gas in phase would in effect keep the same mpg if the gas didn't separate. acetone has approx the same BTU content of ethanol.
Ethanol is another crime put on the american people so a few can get wealthy.

The attraction of water by the ethanol is the problem and the fast degradation of todays cheap fuel.
https://www.goldeagle.com/engine_care/411onethanol.aspx

seafoam works great when u add it to the intake and run it thru the oil.

I don't think Ethanol in gasoline is a crime at all. It has replaced MTBE.

Does anyone know how much the cleanup cost for the MTBE contamination in Pascoag RI a few years ago? It was pretty bad.

It's great for replacing MTBE. There are just better alternatives for replacing the actual gasoline. Butanol appears to be a much better replacement, for example.

Not all alcohols are the same. Isopropyl and butyl alcohol aren't hygroscopic like ethanol. When stored in an airtight container, like a bottle of Heet, pure/concentrated ethanol does a great job of getting water out of a fuel tank. The ethanol used in gasoline isn't stored in such containers, and will suck any humidity out of the air until it reaches about 95% strength. Assuming they actually bothered to get it absolute. Then it will pick up any water from the truck and station tanks. So by the time in reaches your car, it might have enough water in it to result in seperation.

It is possible the other alcohols can become saturated to the point of phase seperation, like ethanol, when added to the fuel tank. Without the strong affinity for water like ethanol, it is easier to control and prevent. The bottle of rubbing alcohol in the bathroom isn't going to change concentration simply because you removed the seal.

I've added acetone and 91% isopropanol to the gas in place of a brand name fuel system cleaner. Have no hesitation about using mineral spirits the same way.

What is pale oil? The only description I found is that it's petroleum that's been refined to a pale, straw color. Is it close to kerosene in properties? Is the dye in pump kerosene a concern? I'm guessing the small amounts used in a home brew cleaner will be quickly diluted out, but sometimes you can't be too paranoid.

I know it was in the billions but I don't think it went past 3 billion... last I read anyways.

https://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/ima...tle_300pxh.jpg
AMSOIL P.i. is the most potent gasoline additive available today.

Read tests, etc.
https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/api.aspx

i checked on the original poster(rh77) and his product(B12 Chem Tool). i bought a can, and it seems to be one of the least expensive out there. i plan on adding a bit of amsoil 2 stroke for lube.