Yeah, I like the look of that.

lovemysan -

That would make a great question or project/answer for the www.saturnfans.com website too!

There is something really nice in the Saturn S-Series look that seems to allow for aerodynamic mods. The nose is very "soft", so to speak, and the lines are clean, so things like your engine grill block go on well.

CarloSW2

If anything, the midstate of SC gets hotter than FL with quite a few days over 100F in the summer, and I have had no problems with overheating while driving around with a grill block and belly pan on my car. True, I have had to open my grill a little more than Dan has had to on his VX to get enough cooling in his cooler location (a 4"x4" opening for me versis a 4"x2" opening for Dan). And if the outside temps remain below 80F, I close off my grill completely. You just have to figure out what your car's actual cooling requirements are and adjust the amount of grill opening to those cooling needs. The grill block and the belly pan have also been very effective at keeping the water from invading the engine compartment on those times where I have accidentally hit a deep puddle of standing water on the road.

Repete, i had taken my grill block off cause was just tied on with tape. i found some zip ties and fastened it more securely. i live near the beachs here and went to the mall and back and only time temps got up there was when stopped for a while in traffic or when i hit a few light back to back. as long as i could move temps stayed down where i liked them. this was a full grill block and only openings was the two small ones in front. it's helpfull to have a scanguage to monitor temps cause the temp gauge in dash hardly moved once warmed up.

you might want to try cardboard or somethign you can trim up easily at first to see what you car needs.

My problem is I believe that 200f WT is the breakpoint for effeciency. The computer alters fuel and timing when 200f is exceeded. Thats a narrow margin when your running a 190thermostat. Tomorrow I'm going out for an hour to see if it gets hot running loaded on the interstate.

Two other things to consider about my car. First is I generally have 300-600 pounds of load in the car. Plus I have a larger car with a larger engine. It also has to user friendly enough for my wife not to overheat the car.

If I could get good fuel economy at 215f max I would be fine. I have to be careful though.

cfg83, that was exactly what I had emant!

There are 2 issues when shortening the rear track. The strut towers and tire clearance. I think you could narrow nearly 3 inches on both sides before major mods to anything but the arms and towers.

Well I don't frequent Sfans much. Everytime I post some good numbers up I get these people chiming in making ridiculous clames with no T2T data. Its an excellent diagnostic source though. I will be posting my aero mods. HAHA. Just to create a stir.

Be cool to smooth out the wheel well buldge altogether in the rear so it is nice and smooth. Starts taking on the look of the EV1. I always wondered why they keep putting a lip on the wheel wells instead of like the old Jags which had a nice clean cutout.

I always assumed it was to prevent bending and denting. It is harder to bend a piece of angle iron than the same size flat stock. I thought is was there to prevent dents from very minor stuff like shopping carts and doors and stuff.

you need to see what temps you car runs at during different driving situations.

if you car has a 190 thermostat then in summer is must get over 200 with ac running if you use it much.

300-600 lbs? :eek: