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I'd still like to get it down to something at 3k or below for cruising. As for the tyres, probably best to assess things as a wheel/transmission system. Since we may need to change both, and the options probably don't lie along a continuum, best to see what will give best combination of both rolling resistance and gearing. Thanks for the help! |
Well, I just found the throttle positioning sensor (TPS), although I have not yet been able to track it back to the ECU. I basically just followed the throttle wire to the engine, where conveniently it sits somewhere along the intake line.
I opened the housing, and saw that the bottom two wires (a white and a yellow with green stripe) connect when the throttle is pressed. This obviously sends the idle signal, something I found on the ECU, marked "IDL". The other wire must give the position. It is yellow and red. Edit: Hmmm. Maybe it isn't a potentiometer. I had another look. It seems that the upper is permanently on +5 Volts, the lower is permanently on ground, and the middle is at 0V at idle and +5 Volts at WOT. That's pretty damn lame, if I am correct. It means that I can't get a look at where the throttle is without grafting on some sort of aftermarket TPS. Damnit. I wonder why the engine doesn't need to know where exactly the throttle is? |
google gave me this.
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That saved me a lot of work trying to find a TPS that wasn't there. In the meantime, I should be able to build myself a little FE meter or a coastdown tester. |
Injector waveform:
https://i7.tinypic.com/211jbd3.jpg This $20 1960s vintage scope is easily the best investment in test equipment I have ever made. Here it is sitting in my car plugged in from the inverter. |
Hmm, smack on a honda tps, same upper/lower limits but with a continual blah blah.Do you have a MAF sensor?
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It's funny, this is the first non-software EE stuff I've done since college, and I'm enjoying it. All 10Mhz of bandwidth, too! Should be fine for an automotive application. I wish I had a pic of the banana plug to BNC connector I soldered up. Unfortunately this is the only photo I took with most of the scope in the picture. The scope cost something like $21 AUD and I had to spend a couple bucks for the connectors and $30 for a new probe. I tried adjusting the probe, but I think it just has some residual waveforms showing through from the inverter in the car. Anyway, it's close enough for what I want to do. Ebay rocks. To put it in perspective, I would have paid $128 for a new 10Mhz scope with about a third the visual area. Of course, this does take 3 minutes to warm up, but them's the breaks. But it does have excellent triggering, the other scope I bought from the same guy is 20Mhz, dual trace, but does not have as good a triggering. Maybe it's just my incompetence though. (I got the 20Mhz dual trace for $50 AUD.) https://i7.tinypic.com/212uwzo.jpg |
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I have no idea about it bolting on, I'd have to see a comparison. Matt has some, I'm sure.
Anyway, the MAF would prolly explain the crappy tps, since the MAF will know well how much air is coming into the engine, so*shrug* |
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