oil change intervals?
 

I checked my oil over the weekend (doesn't happen often due to the hood taping and everything) and it was still almost at the full mark. It's been a while so I checked when I change the oil last. It was just over 3 months and 3100 miles ago :eek:, I haven't added any oil since the oil change. The oil looked very clean still, not black but dark honey colored :thumbup: . I think I will go another 1k-2k miles more before changing it. I usually go for 3k changes with the metro and 5k with my wifes car that uses synthetic. I put Shell 5w-30 mineral oil in the metro last change. I wouldn't classify the metro driving as severe, and most oems recommend 5k -7.5k intervals under those conditions.

Just wondered what intervals you guys use? Would you extend intervals due to lots of EOC?

In my 2007 Toyota Yaris, I use Mobile1 Extended Performance, which claims to safely allow up to 15,000 miles or one year before change. However I change it every 10,000 miles to be sure. I for one think that the every 3,000 mile change is a scam, a way for the auto industry to milk the general public of money.

I expect to get 300,000 miles from my car.

As to your issue, I would not change the oil until 5,000 or 7,500 since you're using natural oil....don't fall for the 3,000 scam.

I usually do 4k on dino oil

I usually do 4.5k on Dino and 9k on synthetic on my current vehicles. I think the 3000mile oil change is a huge scam too

5000-7500
 

For the 'Teg, I usually shoot for 5K-7.5K (depends on the severity of the conditions). With the TSX, the auto oil life meter rounds out to about 6.5K (all dino).

-Rick

3-5 for me

Once a year, whatever that works out to :D

(Anywhere from 7000-10000 km, running synth.)

I'm currently going 10000 - 20000 miles between oil changes. However, I built up to that distance over time. And our cars currently have very clean engines, using very high quality synthetic oil, and extremely high quality oil micro-filtration (all of which are factors that extend the useful life of oil). If I didn't have those factors, I would be hesitant to go over 5000 miles (if even that long).

If you really care about oil, I would hang out over on https://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/ubbthreads.php awhile. I think you'll learn more about oil than you ever wanted to know. ;)

Seriously, going "too long" on oil is not only bad for your engine, it's also (in my limited experience) bad for FE. But the thing is, you do save some money (not to mention hassle with an oil change) by actually using the "useful life" of your oil. And how long is "too long" varies with a lot of factors. Here are just a few of the factors that could have an effect:

If/when you use much better oil filtration than normal, you keep more of the microscopic dirt out of the oil. This not only helps the oil last longer, but it appears to help FE some (by having less "sand in the gears" as it were).

Oils all have "additive packs" to do useful things (for example, neutralizing acids produced by combustion). Over time these additives are used up, and when they are gone you really should change your oil (or you are "asking for trouble"). So a premium oil with more of these additives can last longer than a cheaper oil (btw: I use a very high end synthetic, so my oil is designed to last).

How clean your engine is, is yet another factor that can effect how long oil can last. The oil in a sludged up engine just isn't going to last as long as the oil in a clean engine.

Just because you oil can last, is no excuse for not checking the dipstick occasionally, as most cars lose at least a little oil (and how much often varies with many other factors). And so you really want to keep you oil "topped off", because FE is only one thing that can suffer when you oil level drops.

And those are just some of the factors to consider, when deciding how long to run between oil changes.

In Europe, oils are graded by the ACEA then put into categories. In America oils must meet a mimimum API standard, but are not graded by quality. Most synthetics in the U.S. will have the ACEA grade on the bottle. Keep in mind that if extended oil drains are to be practiced, then use a high quality oil filter.

Borrowed from the ACEA European Oil Sequences 2007

A/B : gasoline and diesel engine oils
A1/B1 Oil intended for use in gasoline and car + light van diesel engines specifically designed to be capable of using low friction low viscosity oils with a High temperature / High shear rate viscosity of 2.6 to 3.5 mPa.s. These oils may be unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.
A3/B3 Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use in high performance gasoline and car + light van diesel engines and/or for extended drain intervals where specified by the engine manufacturer, and/or for year-round use of low viscosity oils, and/or for severe operating conditions as defined by the engine manufacturer.
A3/B4 Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use in high performance gasoline and direct injection diesel engines, but also suitable for applications described under A3/B3.
A5/B5 Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use at extended drain intervals in high performance gasoline and car + light van diesel engines designed to be capable of using low friction low viscosity oils with a High temperature / High shear rate viscosity of 2.9 to 3.5 mPa.s. These oils may be unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.

Thanks for your input everyone.

I don't have one for my metro clench and I don't have one for any of anyone elses cars on here (unless you have an 89 xr7 or 98 taurus). I pretty much know what I am doing with my oil. I am mostly curious about oil change intervals others are using especially in regards to hypermiling. I know i have noticed what appears to be better oil life while hypermiling.

I agree with the first part of your statement, and I am aware of the importance of keeping enough oil in an engine. I didn't mean to make it sound like it was the first time I've checked the oil since the oil change, I just don't do it as often as I would like because of the tape hassel. Fortunately the car doesn't consume much oil so I can check it less often :) .
The second part is somewhat debatable (FE suffering from low oil level), a full crankcase will have more windage than one with a lower level of oil. Windage = energy loss = FE slightly lower. I would rather have a crankcase in the full range though to be safe especially since mine only holds 3.7 quarts or so.:) To avoid problems I would never drive with the oil level lower than the low mark on the range. But maybe you meant if the oil were so low it weren't pumping and cooling properly, then yes FE would suffer from the higher friction and temps etc as the engine begins to fail :o .

my manual asks that you change oil ever 7,500 miles, or 6 months, the synthetic I use says 25,000 miles, or once a year, so I do it once a year, of course I also have the smallest micron oil filter I could find, and it's twice as long (more filter area) then the stock filter, and I did an oil flush when I bought the car.

I just posted this on another thread, but I think it applies here also.

I like that Mobil 1 is finally pushing for extended oil drains using the extended performance oil line. The only thing that I don't like is that if your car is still under warranty than you have to follow the oil life sensor or owners manual. But if it's not under warranty, your covered for 15,000 miles or 1 year. Does this even make sense? Also it says if your operating under sever conditions to change your oil as stated in the owners manual. I think it's so they can weasil out of paying up, by saying your car was used under severe conditions so your SOL. Here's the warranty info for Mobil 1 Extended Performance.

This is a limited warranty covering the Mobil 1 Extended Performance lubricant you purchased. ExxonMobil warrants its lubricants to be free from defects and will replace any Mobil lubricant that is defective. For vehicles covered by a warranty, follow the vehicle's oil life sensor or the oil change interval recommended in your owner's manual. Follow your owner's manual if the vehicle is operated in any of the following severe services: racing or commercial applications including taxis, limousines, etc.; frequent towing or hauling; extremely dusty or dirty conditions; or under excessive idling conditions. If your vehicle has exceeded the duration of the manufacturer’s warranty, ExxonMobil warrants that the Mobil 1 Extended Performance lubricant you purchased will protect your vehicle’s critical engine parts from oil related failure for 15,000 miles or 1 year, which ever comes first. If not, provided the engine was serviceable at the time the oil was installed, Exxon Mobil will have your vehicle repaired and replace the oil at no cost to you.

I also do a flush on the first oil change. And also do the tranny at that time also.

I don't know why it happens (although I'm guessing it's because the oil doesn't lube as well when the level is low). However, I have noticed the effect in my wife's Civic. She seems to have an uncanny ability to let the oil level drop too low (I am trying to teach her to read the dipstick), and I've found found the dip-stick at various stages of low (including about 2.5 quarts down, when she had an oil leak at the drain plug, that she wasn't aware of). From what I can tell, the FE in the car started dropping as soon as the oil level was about 1/2 quart down, and kept dropping the lower the oil level got. Which is why I try to help her keep her oil level up much closer to the "full" line on the dipstick.

I think maybe you are right, because when the oil is low it begins to suck in air = cavitation = higher friction = less surface area served by the air infused oil

Ever wonder why Mobil is pushing an 'extended drain' of 15,000 miles, on their oil that was originally rated for 30,000 miles service life?

The folks who started the whole thing forced them to. It's the same as your laundry soap now being 'consentrated' and bio-degradable.
In both cases two companies with nothing in common but similar sounding names invented superior products, almost thirty years befor the main stream companies were forced to respond. Amway with soap and Amsoil with the first automotive synthetic motor oil.

For 30 years it has been possible to go well beyond the conventional oil change times.

Some of us used Amsoil oil and filtration to go over 100,000 miles without doing more than changing the spin-on filter and adding some oil.

Today you can simply use Amsoil oil and the Amsoil EA oil filter and change both at their rated time of 25,000 miles or one year.

So, ya gotta ask yourself, punk; do I want the longest engine life and best lubricant performence, or not? Well, do ya?

I use full synthetic 0w40 in the cavalier and change it every 10k. I get a sample tested every change and it still has active additives left.

In the Scion we change it every 3k and use whatever the stealership dumps in it.

i change mine in my truck every 3-3.5K as i do haul a trailer quite often and have loaded the bed up with crap alot.

the car usually 3-4K. usually i do them at the same time so i don't have to drag all the oil change crap outa the garage twice.

it could be like the Model A had 500 mile intervals :P most people now go at least a 1000 miles before they change.(remember there is no filtration oil system at all in these engines, but also have very large oil "ports" if u will call em that, its a splash system/gravity feed kinda. as the oil pumps job is to oily pump oil up to the valve chamber then it drains back down.

I do 5,000 miles/1 year (whichever comes first) on all my vehicles, that way I know if my mileage is divisible by 5,000 then it needs to be done. Here are the flavors I'm currently using...

98 GMC K1500, 5.7L V-8: Mobil1 0W-30
86 Chevy C10, 5.0L V-8: Mobil1 10W-30
81 Buick Regal, 3.8L V-6: Mobil1 5W-30

Usually about 4000 miles on Royal Purple.

Ok, I'll chime in.

2002 GMC 1500: WalMart "SuperTech" High Mileage 5W30 whenever the "change oil" light comes on, probably ~6000 miles. It doesn't have an oil quality sensor, it just calculates based on RPM/temp/load/etc.

2008 VW Rabbit: Castrol Syntec European Formula 0W30 per the manufacturer's 10,000 mile specified interval.

1980 Buick LeSabre 4.1: WalMart "SuperTech" High Mileage 10W30, last done when I did the other two, and probably will do it again this summer. The car hasn't been driven.

I used to do 3 in 10. Now I think 5 k is not a problem with regular oil. The Mercedes SLK manual says service it once a year, so thats 10-12k on the oil. the engine computer determines the driving conditions and could result in earlier changes.

regards
badger

Man, I feel really bad for your LeSabre. I feel like driving up there and helping you give that car some "true love". My Buick loves to come out and play, and as a matter of fact I'm about to take her for a run to the bank. I'm the owner of a business worth millions, and I drive my deposits to the bank in a rusty old Buick... :)

-Jay

:( I feel bad for it, too. I also feel bad for me not getting to drive it. I may make it a financial priority long before it's prudent to do so.

In the Cressida I did 10k dino oil changes and 15k synthetic oil changes. In the Tracker I did 10k synthetic changes and the Durango will get it changed out in that fashion too unless the oil test shows it to be okay for longer.

Makes it easier to know when to change next. 40k, 50k, 60k, ect.

wow! pay that much to get that little.

i know nothing of RP(in regard to it being PAO based or not), but i'd switch to amsoil and go 10k or yearly changes.

that's alotta dinero to spend every 4k!

20725 miles and down 1/4 inch on the dip stick only added about 1 cup since the change to Synlube. Don't expect to be changing it any time soon either just a filter change maybe later this year.

'95 Civic VX, mix of rural and highway driving, driving style between gas saving and normal, engine has 150k -ish mi on it, car and trans has 264k mi.

Used to do 3-4k mi changes, but noticed the car took no oil, so I figured I could stretch it. Even with the old smokey motor, still took very little oil when beating on it a lot.

Last oil change (now on "new" motor) was about 9-10k mi on Castrol Synthetic 5w30. Took about a half qt per 5k. Since then the valve cover seal has gotten leaky as well as the oil pan, so now it's taking a little bit more oil.

This time I have 4k miles on Mobil 1 5w30 and had to add about 2/3 of a qt. Oil leaks are getting a little bit worse, so once I fix those, I suppose the oil loss should go away.

if its slowly startign to leak the bolts could have backed off with time/gasket getting a bit worn out, try lightly tightening then back down, my s-10 managed to get 2 of my valve cover bolts loose to the point of falling out.

It lasts me about 6 months - not bad at all.

One of the primary reasons for the fairly short intervals for the car is the loose bottom end - I want to reduce metal particulates in it as much as I can.

A K&N oil filter for a Dodge SRT4 and 5 quarts of oil gets me by for 1/2 the year.

Wile-E was on 10,000 miles on walmart 0W30 synthetic, and inspection after blowing his HG proved him beautifully clean, no cam scuffing or anything. Had a high mileage oil in there for 500 miles or so after top end rebuild, for extra detergents and cleanup of any bottom end crap due to coolant getting down there. Put him back on the 0W30, but might be changing it sooner than 10,000 this time, seems to be getting darker sooner, either the filter is crappy, or it's the winter thing getting more combustion deposits going in due to cold engine. I gotta check him soon, he's got a drip :mad:

Marvin was needing good High Milage oil on 3-4000 mile changes, it would "go off" quick.

Anyone notice though that a lot of oil seems to be coming "dark honey" color out of the bottle/jug these days? Even close to strong tea colored. Kinda gives you less "range" in judging how dirty it's getting. I wonder if that's a deliberate ploy to darken earlier to make oil change sensors trip at intervals shorter than they might otherwise have done.

Heh, have to nickname you Howard Hughes, he drove beaters too.

I'd be watchful when changing from High Mileage oil back to normal stuff. According to what I read on BITOG, the High Mileage oils have additives that swell up gaskets and seals...not extra detergents.

Yeah, my dad always said not to put the high detergent formulations of oil in my old cars & trucks. He also discouraged me from using chemical radiator flushes in the old vehicles. His theory was that after the vehicle was 10 years old the "gunk" is what held it togeather. You start cleaning the engine out too well, and it will start leaking and burning oil.

-Jay

or worse, plug up the sump.

I can attest to that happening. :thumbdown:


But if it's a car that won't switch back, or your not planning on having too long due to planning to sell, the high mileage ones work nice in that case. (For me at least.) ;)

WHen I first installed the gasket, the bolts bottomed out before they were tight at all. I used a lot of RTV to post-pone the failure, but no luck. It's due to it being a dirt cheap gasket off of ebay. Can't say I'm that happy with that buy. I have a Honda brand seal ready to replace it once its warm outside again. ;)

yea i only buy gaskets that local stores stock as to avoid those korean made things made out of old clothes gift boxes...

i look for felpro or mr gasket if i cant get one locally i order if off rockauto if they dont have it i make it

AND THE LESSON IS......

Do the analysis first,

and

If the oil is still good you don't have to change it.

https://www.oaitesting.com/ tells you if your oil is safe for continued use.

Nice old thread.....on the jeep I use 5w30 syn and change every 5,000 miles.

On the cutlass I use 5w30 dino since that's what it has had since it was born and change it once a year regardless of mileage (that is usually about 4,000 miles or so). It has about 150,000+ miles on it. It doesn't burn oil and no leaks so it keeps getting dino and changes once a year. It doesn't get driven as much as it used to.

I do all my own service since it is so easy and more convenient for me so the miles I stated above are approximate.