Usually its just the clip that holds the adjusting screw that breaks. These can be had at most auto parts stores relatively cheaply.

now gonna try a winter set up since theres no ice anywhere im gonna add my regular psi 34 front 38 back

i tried something new, covering up behind my headlights, over the radiator, with duct tape and also created weather stripping on top of the engine bay to keep air from coming in when driving on the top part of the metal that holds the radiator up ect, by pinching ductape enough to make it still stick on top yet shield the upper engine from outside heat to an extent.

I've been using this method to create weatherstripping for the old doors in my house (1890's) and it works alot better than regular weather stripping because its very customizeable and a hell of a lot cheaper(1$ for a roll at the dollar store as opposed to 10$ for a package of weatherstripping that won't work, or maybe just a little that will be enough for maybe 2 doors if that also), and works very well, I am using plastic tape on the doors though, not duct tape(leaves no residue)

WAI: 2.7%
grill block: 4%
air dam extension: 1%
removed mud flaps: 2%
disabled DRLs: .5%

10.2% increase @ $12.50 investment...in addition to driving techniques. yup FANTASTIC job!!!

disclaimer: these results are specific to this driver and this vehicle, your results will vary.

No actual percentages claimed for any individual mod.

Lower grille completely blocked.
40% radiator block.
Warm air intake from top of radiator.
44 PSI sidewall max air in tires.

My best mileage on this route was 78 MPG last summer. Today there has been snow on the ground for a week. Temps just above freezing. I did make two stops so that cost me about 3 extra MPG with the extra warm up (the additional stop and the much colder warm up cycle compared to 92 degrees ambient).

All of these mods are trying to mitigate the effects of cold temperatures. On the actual route without considering the higher fuel cost of the warm up times and colder enrichment, I would make an educated guess that the actual on the road mileage difference was about 5 MPG compared to 92 degrees ambient. In both instances I never used any accessories. No heat at 34 ambient, and no AC at 92 ambient, not other accessories of any kind.
regards
Gary

oh no, the light was perfect, would have been a waste of money, the thing that screws and adjusts the direction of the beam snapped, it was cheap small piece of plastic, this was such an easy fix and it worked out well for me.. Cause now my car is more efficient

on a test run or two the car warms up alot more quickly, it's running like it would on a warmer day even on the highway in 29 degree weather, steadier and smoother:thumbup:

I've split this thread, moving the controversial portion to a separate thread. This thread should be about BEEF's WAI and closely related posts.

HC,
thanks

snagged from ecomodder.com

Hot / warm air intake - permalink

Higher intake charge temperature has been found to increase the flame speed, the combustion reaction rate, the uniformity of the fuel-air mixture and reduce the heat transfer rate though the cylinder walls. This all adds up to the engine using more heat for physical movement and less being wasted.

The downside to this is that hotter air also tends to retard ignition timing and cause engine pinging. Different engines will react differently to warm air intakes and testing will need to be done to see if it will work for your specific vehicle. Saturns are known to react well to warm air intakes.

i think any gain to your individual mpg charts should be considered a success. if you did something and you see any decent gain thats repeatable youve done what you set out to do.