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An example that is easy to observe: Tony's frozen pizza. Get it from WalMart and it's got visibly less cheese, and the crust is often bubbled up (before cooking). It's $2.50. For $4 at other grocery stores, it's much more consistent, far fewer crust bubbles and more cheese. It's not 100% of products, but it is a significant portion of them. When there is a difference it's usually not a huge difference. WalMart oil is good enough for my cars, and WalMart food is good enough for me. |
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That's why I mentioned comparing the 1Qt bottles. Everyone carries those.
EDIT: I guess I was thinking that while I typed that response, but I never stated in there what I was thinking clearly. Anyway, a 4Qt and a 5Qt bottle are not the identical product. |
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I've never seen the EP oil straight from the bottle. I had it changed, and they put it in for me. Its still a wonderful light honey color (at least it looks that way on the dipstick), and the oil has been in that car for nearly a year. |
Next time you are checking the oil put some on your fingers and rub them together, then do it to the other cars. It has a very weird texture to it.
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The following link will take you to a rebate form for a $15. rebate on Pennzoil Platinum bringing the cost for a 5 quart jug down to $5.
https://pennzoil.com/documents/04946%...ine%20form.pdf |
I've used the Wally world Syn tech brand 5/30 for years now. The oil analysis have always shown it to still have good protection left at 7 to 8k. Could I buy other oils and maybe push the change interval to 10k? Maybe, and it might even be worth it except that I wasn't getting any better life expectancy out of Mobil One. Same changes, same TBN numbers as the WAY cheaper synthetics. No thanks.:thumbdown:
Jim T. |
Mix Your Oil
I have been mixing my oil for years, after reading the FAA report on Synthetic motor oil. The FAA is super restrictive, you cant add octane booster to you plane and until 2000 you could not add synthetics to the oil. So the FAA did a study and found that a total synthetic did not wash off the rings enough to get the carbon fouling out of the rings. The result, rings would stick and blow oil past the piston. So the FAA worked on a number of experiments, they found that a mixture of 45% Synthetic, 45% multiweight 20/50, and 10% 30 weight was the best for longevity. The synthetic has its wonderful lubricity, the 20/50 washed the rings, and the 10% 30 weight left a film of oil on the crank for start up to eliminate the metal on metal of a crank that has cooked off its thin synthetic oil.
I use Havoline or Quaker State Synthetic Blend, largly due to a test Chevrolet ran that found the best longevity of bearing life came from these 2 brands. Who were the losers, everything else including Mobile 1 and Castrol due to they're inability to cover the crank after running. Now the Chevrolet test was in 2006, so many motor oil companies have changed hands or merged operations. If anyone has new data I'm all ears. How do I mix it? I take one of those clear plastic 1 gallon water jugs you get from the dollar store, drink the water and let it dry for a day, when all the water is gone, I draw graduated lines on the side of it and start mixing my 3 oils. With the new synthetic blends I dont have to mix the 2 oils, so I just add a shot of 30 weight. Now in winter I decrease the multi grade regular oil to manufacturer recomended viscosity, but I still add the 10% 30 weight. |
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Some WalMart items are OK...I like the cheap mini-blinds...for under $4.00 I can replace them anytime the cat gets mad at me and decides to pee on the blinds. Socks and underwear do OK for the price...we have a Winco store in town that is as good a deal as WalMart for food, and the quality is a lot better. |
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