VX exhaust manifold unique
I've seen the original VX exhaust manifold and it's unique among Honda manifolds; all the exhausts come straight out (90 degrees) to a central chamber where the O2 sensor is put in the centre, at the top. Then it goes down into a cat. That leads me to think that Honda wanted to put their 5 wire O2 sensor in the highest heat location. As the original VX manifold is hard to find, I'm going to try and modify a regular 4 into 1, locating the sensor in that 4 into 1 hotspot, at the top, then heat wrapping it to keep it hot. Has anybody done that?
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Yes a hot O2 sensor works better. I've also found that keeping the O2 sensor closer to the exhaust port give quicker response to changes in AF ratio, except you can't put a solo wideband in an individual runner so it has to be placed in the collector, preferably in a spot that doesn't hinder exhaust flow.
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Actually OP, if you makes you feel any better, most newer civics (1996+) have this EXACT exhaust design and the reason for this is by putting the catalytic converter closer and or using the catalytic converter like an exhaust manifold, it allows for quicker warm up temps.. My '98 Civic LX has this exact setup and considering the D-series engine hasn't substantially changed in design (save for increased deck height for more displacement, same bore size) since 88-05, I'd say you could just pick yourself up one of these OBD-II exhaust manifold catalytic converters (yes there actually is a distinction between OBD-I cats and OBD-II cats). OBD-I cats have a lower efficiency requirement compared to OBD-II cats, so OBD-II are always cleaner.
The civics that don't have this setup are the EX civics from when ever to at least 2000 model year.. Possibly in 2001 model year, they transitioned the EX to having the same catalytic converter setup as all of the other civics. Older Civic EXs have a separate exhaust manifold which bends and then connected to a catalytic converter further down stream, which allows for aftermarket upgrades, something the "newer design" doesn't allow for since the cat IS the manifold. |
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As far as buying/modifying an exhaust manifold, I would still try to buy a VX one rather than modify a 4-1. The VX manifold will give slightly higher backpressure. I know that the full-throttle performance will suffer slightly, but the mileage will be better. Some people on this site and others with a modified header in their VX suffered mileage drops when they swapped out, even when they kept the 5-wire O2 and OBDI cat. Have you tried the WTB forum on this site? You may have better luck than you think. |
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I purchased a new exhaust manifold and heat shields from Honda and a new cat from Bosal. Unfortunately the bolt patterns don't line up with my Vx manifold and they claim that it did so I have to return the parts with a company that sucks on returns. Partsgeek.com. I've had lots of good parts come from them but I'm worried about the return process based on consumer reports. Worse case is I send it back and they don't refund I'll dispute it I guess. My experience so far has been good though so hopefully it will be a smooth return, even though I have to cover shipping both ways, and they may try to hit me with a restocking fee :me: Anyways back to topic. Will the 96 Lx/hx cat perform the exact same as a stock 92-95 Vx/Cx setup? |
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my 97 LX has the same set-up, and i believe you're correct that the EX does not.
the crack in my manifold has been patched, but it's still leaking. my thought was to buy an aftermarket one at some point, and sell my old one because the cat has value. |
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I just am wondering if the 96 cat will yield the exact same results as m 92 VX. I know they blot right up, but I'm more converned with backpressure, o2 readings and MPG. I know they are very very similiar, but will they yield the exact same results? |
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This got me thinking imz, I'll probably need to pull the shield away to access the manifold, but I remembered seeing rust around where it's exposed at the LAF on my vehicle.
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The only reason I know that the o2 sensor uses the manifold as a ground for its signal is that when I was testing out an o2 sensor, in order to get a signal on the multimeter, one probe was on a wire on the harness and one was on the body of the o2 sensor itself. Spark plugs use the body of the vehicle to complete the circuit, so it's not a stretch for an o2 sensor to do the same. |
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Would one of the wires in the connectors help ground it?
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It's possible all this is an anachronism to the days of unheated o2 sensors and that they don't want to change the way they send the signal to the computer. For a more reliable signal, it would obviously make sense to just run dedicated + and - wires to the O2 sensor instead of using the body of the sensor itself to complete the circuit. They run dedicated + and - wires for the heater circuit but not for the signal part of the o2 sensor which is why a rusted manifold can certainly cause signal issues. Most guys who work on cars are not very interested in the electronics part of the car and aren't able to infer repairs unless they're specifically told to do so. This is why if you ask most car guys what it means if a car battery is at 0V, they'll reply "it's dead, you need to replace it" when in fact, it's not dead, just severely discharged. The reason they think batteries with extremely low or no voltage are permanently "dead" is because battery chargers will refuse to charge batteries with a very low voltage. There are two reasons for this: 1. They don't want you charging 6v batteries with a 12v charger.. 2. If the voltage is extremely low, for all the charger knows, you don't have the battery charger hooked up at all and so you don't want the charger attempting to charge with 10amps+ of electricity when it isn't hooked up to a damned thing now do you? To get around this issue, just put a good battery with jumper cables in parallel to the bad battery. Hook up the battery charger and charge at a low amperage like 2amps. In about 12 hours, you can probably disconnect the good battery and just run the battery charger on the discharged battery itself and charge from there. |
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So I guess I shouldn't put on this new NGK 24300 oxygen sensor until I get a new manifold? That would suck because the 96 dorman cat/manifold assembly is 200 dollars. I'm spent out at this point.
I just want to fix it right the first time. I'm just not 100 percent sure that the 96 cat/manifold combo will work to the exact same specs as the 92-95 Vx cat. I know they bolt up, I just wasn't sure if they will perform the same. |
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A "rusted out car" isn't going to make the catalytic converter fall apart and get into the muffler system. That would only happen if you crushed the catalytic converter with blunt force or something else.. If you're worried about rust showing up in your exhaust but don't feel like spending money to get a new manifold, then I suggest removing the existing manifold/catalytic converter, take out the part with the catalytic converter and then try removing the rust from the manifold. Let me know if you want ideas on how to remove the rust. |
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Well I finally got around to running a ground to the O2 sensor on the exhaust manifold. Good news is, the idle is more stable, sticking with around 670 slightly edging up to 700 if the engine gets hot but when things cool down, it goes back to around 670. This is in contrast with before where I'd notice the car idle at 670 but then randomly the idle would jump to 750. I also noticed that after driving long periods of time and being stuck at a stop light, the idle wouldn't drop to 670 but would idle at 750. The only time I could get the car to idle at 670 was if I let the car warm up gently.
However, while working on the separate ground for the o2 sensor, I figured I'd take off the heat shield and take a look around, it turns out I have a cracked manifold and the crack is right at the spot where the o2 sensor is. I don't know if I told anyone on here this but before I added the ground to the o2 sensor, I used an ohm meter and measured the ohms from the o2 sensor to the battery. I noticed on a cold engine, the ohms was lower than when the exhaust manifold was heated up and on an engine that is heating up (while running) I can slowly see the ohms drop.. This might explain why running a separate ground wire to the o2 sensor would explain a more stable idle since there is now a more steady and clean signal. However the real issue at hand is that having a crack exhaust manifold could be letting in cold air (or so I have been told) and that could make the car read lean, dumping in more fuel. I was wondering why I could smell some fumes from the engine bay but then it would dissipate. |
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So I can use a 96+ civic lx or dx manifold? My 92 VX manifold is cracked too.
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This car is my beater car... I seriously don't want to put much money into it. The body is pretty shot.
Anybody know of any aftermarket headers what will work with the VX? I think I'm just gonna get an ebay cheapy for $30. As long as I get 40+mpg, I'll be happy... It currently get's 42mpg with a bad cracked manifold and possibly dying o2. |
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how much will my FE be affected by using tube headers? the o2 bung will not be seeing from all 4 exhaust ports.
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$40 headers $50 cat $50 install Still cheaper than a cast unit from a 96-00 that won't properly fit my oil-dip-stick. Still didn't find an answer to this though... |
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So to conclude, it's really a good idea to stick with a setup that is close to stock especially with a lean-burn civic because otherwise your car may be failing smog sooner than you think. This is also why lean-burn was disabled for California civics, not because it'd fail smog when new, but would likely fail smog before the 150K mark which means warranty claims. Most automotive design is based upon making sure the car lasts the duration of the warranty period. |
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okay. so can i use a good condition 96-00 dx/lx exhaust manifold without any problems? will i still be able to use my oil dipstick?
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