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-   -   Civic HX engine rebuild for MPG and Durability (https://www.fuelly.com/forums/f10/civic-hx-engine-rebuild-for-mpg-and-durability-13050.html)

longdrive352 11-09-2010 07:09 PM

Civic HX engine rebuild for MPG and Durability
 
Hey everybody,

I am at 215k on my 97 HX. I know the timing belt needs to be done, and I've found myself replacing seals everywhere. The more I think about it, the more I am thinking it may be time to learn how to rebuild and engine.

I'm interested in trying to improve MPG as well as durability. What kinds of changes could I make to a D16Y5 that could improve those?

I'm interested in solid upgrades, but not in spending tons of cash.

If there are upgrades I should consider while I'm in there, what do you think the $$ difference would be between incorporating those updates vs. just building a stock setup ?

Thanks for your suggestions and insight.

slogfilet 11-10-2010 08:54 AM

Re: Civic HX engine rebuild for MPG and Durability
 
You may also want to look at low-mileage engines imported from Japan. Due to costs and emissions laws over there, there is a good supply of engines with around 40-60k miles on them. They can usually be had pretty cheaply (especially VTEC-E engines, it seems.) Maybe someone here can pipe up with a reputable importer?

kamesama980 11-13-2010 07:45 AM

Re: Civic HX engine rebuild for MPG and Durability
 
Whether you're doing stock or upgraded setups:
1. make sure everythings clean enough to eat out of when you put it back together.
2. quadruple check every measurement.
3. torque everything exactly.
3a. chase all the threads with a tap or die. make sure they don't have oil, anti-sieze, lock-tite, or anything else on them unless the factory manual says so. torque=frction x tension. friction down = tension up at the same torque and thta's how you strip threads and break bolts.
3b. Don't go an extra 5 ftlb to be sure, a friend of mine tore up his rod bearings because he put an extra couple ftlb on the rod bolts. it was just enough they didn't stretch right and ate 2 with visible wear on the other 4 after 400 miles.

as for upgrading stuff: the easiest thing to do for no extra charge is when you get the head and/or block milled to get a nice straight surface for the head gasket, have them take off a little extra to bump the compression. compression=power+mpg.


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