Actually in my xb the fuel burn rate at idle is as low as 0.13 gph some of which is alternator load, this roughly translates to 1100 watts to keep the engine turning over once warmed up and already spinning. Any assist at that speed should further reduce fuel use at the lowest applied power levels.
Higher voltage was not what I would be interested in, I am wondering how much lower the voltage can be since that determines how many batteries are required thus the initial cost.
It seems you have converted a standard alternator into a motor (semi brushes) and I am wondering what kind of efficiency you are getting. I assume you have a way of disconnecting the stator diodes when you are powering the windings.
PS thanks for the splitter cable, we scan gauge users don't like having our gauges disconnected, like for inspections etc.

OK, I see what you are talking about, basically eliminating the power draw of the A/C compressor, Power Steering Pump and Alternator from the engine by supply some level of electric assist while idling. I thought you were talking about shuting all fuel off to the engine and having the alternator motor continue spinning the engine. That is a good idea and I will have to check this out when I finish the demo vehicle.

The high voltage control unit can be run at lower voltages. I did find that running (5) 12v lead acid batteries resulted in over 100mpg at 30 mph on a 2011 Toyota Corolla. At the time I was just trying to proove the concept and only had use of the vehicle for a weekend at a time and then had to remove the system on Sunday. If you haven't done so already, check out the last video on the "Historical Videos" page. I am sure you could run lower voltages depending on your driving needs. You could probably count on about 1mph of assist for every 1.6 volts and the minimum voltage is 16V.

The lower voltage would need to be specified at the time of ordering because the control system would need to be programmed accordingly.

As far as actual efficiency, I don't have the equipment to test the actual output at the alternator pulley. The 8KW was measured muliplying the voltage and amperage on the input side but the mpg gains seem to indicate that a appreciable amount of the input power is being translated into mechanical power.

With the system not being able to recharge until you get home to plug it in again, how long/far does the charge in a typical installation last?

From above long post:
"Since the systems is always seeking to maintain a preset amperage draw based on the vehicles speed you can count on needing 1.3AH at 100Volts for every 1 minute of assist if you are using Lithium and about 2.5AH if you are using Lead Acid."

Looks like it needs a lot of amp hours, I wonder if HHO would be a better choice. I would think since it is trying to maintain a certain amount of current draw (constant max current to the windings) then it would be a function of the speed that you're traveling being less power at lower speeds since it would require less voltage. The controller would draw less power at lower speeds thus lasting longer on a given size battery. It does look to require a lot of battery power which makes sense since it does take considerable power to move a car. This is why HHO often yields greater results as it helps release more energy from the gasoline than it uses to make the gas. Now if you run the HHO on a separate battery ... hybrid!

But something's got to be lost in the conversion of water molecules to HHO, then pushing the HHO through the intake manifold to be burned in the cylinders and converted to mechanical energy. I would think this system would be more efficient as its taking electric energy and converting it to mechanical energy. Just one conversion. HHO is taking electric energy, converting it to potential energy, then thermal energy, then finally, mechanical energy. Something has to be lost in those multiple conversions.

Well if you think about it in reality you are just burning electricity instead of gasoline, making the gases is a little lossy but the efficiency of using an alternator has a motor is pretty inefficient and increases wear on the converted alternator, belt and pulleys. HHO is just adding a more combustible gas mixture to the air and gasoline and operates separately plus installation is just running a hose to the intake manifold if you run a separate battery, plus if you're going to use a 12 volt battery that is separate you can still charge off the car battery whenever you want to.

Thanks guys for all of the questions and comments. I am devoting full time to the demo vehicle so I will no longer be monitoring this thread actively. I can still be contacted directly through ECA Systems. I will also be updating the website as things progress.

As always with these systems we need to know the actual operating cost to see if there's a justification in using a system like this to save money. If it ends up costing more just to get a little better gas mileage then the return isn't worth it.

If you ever have the demo vehicle in the Washington, DC area I'd be interested in seeing it.