A radiator door for the grill block
As ambient temperatures rise as we move closer to summer, I've had to open up more area on my grill block to increase the air flow to keep the engine temps from rising above normal. At 85F while travelling at 65MPH on rolling terrain, I need a total grill opening of 4" X 3" to keep my engine at a normal temp. I figure that by late June I should have a good idea exactly how much grill area I need to operate normally under the hottest conditions I can get around here. But the main problem from the standpoint of drag reduction is that for most of the time I am driving, I don't need that maximal grill area and that extra grill area is just unnecessary MPG-wasting drag. I could go and tape over this unneeded grill area in the winter or when night driving, but this is a fairly cumbersome and crude method for adjusting the radiator's intake/drag to the current engine cooling requirements.
But we can steal another idea from the aircraft industry to solve this problem. Designers of piston powered aircraft have long known that increased cooling equals increased drag and install cowl flaps (for air cooled engines) or radiator doors (for liquid cooled engines), so the pilot can reduce cooling-related drag to the minimum level needed to maintain proper engine temperature. So once I know how large a grill opening that I need, I plan to design a replacement grill block for my car with a cable-actuated radiator door built into it so I can adjust the grill air intake from my seat while driving. Of course, the ultimate version of this would be an electronic controller that monitors the engine temps and automatically adjusts the grill air intake to keep it from rising above normal. |
How about another hood
How about another hood release cable or something like that, pulls it back but it's on a spring so it can snap back shut!
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I plan on completely
I plan on completely blocking off the front and mounting some aftermarket radiator somewhere else. I've considered a water/water heat exchanger and a water/oil heat exchanger, both plummed to a smaller radiator mounted in the rear somewhere.
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Ohh I should mention, the
Ohh I should mention, the reasons I plan to do this are:
1. Aerodynamics 2. Thermal Efficiency - No reason to have a cooling system that could handle 300hp when I'm only making 92. Less water to haul around and to heat up means less time spent warming up and a lower curb weight. |
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Makes me wish I would have gotten that radiator out of the 93 civic I saw months ago in the junkyard. |
Re: Ohh I should mention, the
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Those 1/2 size radiators out of the EG civics are a good deal lighter, but also taller, so don't plan on just tossing it in there. Considering a single core one of those is able to cool 250HP (in my experience)... imagine how small of a dual core unit you could run only cooling 100HP!!! Another thing we should consider is really how often are we asking 100% out of our motors??? When you aren't burning much fuel, you're not producing too much heat. You really put your cooling system to the test at road race events, which is where I can back up my claims as to what radiators are good for what HP. |
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Radiators are only $10 at my junkyard, so hopefully I'll get lucky soon. |
Re: Ohh I should mention, the
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I just like to complicate things =) |
maybe you already have a
maybe you already have a thread about this...
but size and shape of the radiator hole i would think would make a difference... as in tall & skinny only cooling a few runners and wide/narrow cooling a little of them all |
Re: maybe you already have a
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