Post your shift points
 

Where do you shift during standard driving/hypermiling/wailing?

To 2nd 3rd 4th 5th
2000 1500 1500 1250
2000 1500 1500 1250
5500 ...... ....... ......

I don't wail on it too hard because of the motor mount, so yeah, I'd like to feel the pull when that's on. Anyway, 2nd ends at 74mph so it'll be hard to really figure that chart out, :p

Just thought I'd post since I'm excited about the new tranny.

1st.. 2nd.. 3rd.. 4th
4000 4500 3500 skipped 4th standard driving
2600 2800 2900 2800 weak sauce driving
7200 7200 7200 7000 yippy skippy driving

there is no rhym or reason to the points, thats just how i noticed i do it.
ive noticed in normal driving i skip 4th a lot so naturally there is no shift point from 4th
when im wailing on it at the top of 4th i tend to shift early just because i dont feel too comfortable having the engine under full load for long at such high rpms.

I always skip forth in my mom's car but do not in this car, keeping the revs down and all that, :p

1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th
2500, 2500, 2000, 2000, 1500. I just want to accelerate.
2000, 2300, 2000, 2000, 1500, I have time to blow.

I'd love to post my truck's shift points, but I have an automatic tranny. I wish the thing would go into 5th at 40 mph, but it just refuses to do so, no matter how much I feather the throttle.

I have to get to about 48 mph to get into 5th and have the torque conveter lock up. You can see the mileage effects on the Scangage. Despite going faster, the truck's mileage improves between 45 to 50 mph.

My next truck will have a manual. I can't wait to get rid of this Ford P.O.S.

Should be an adjustment for those shift points on that Ford Truck automatic.

Throttle is really responsive when upshifting at 3000, revs drops to 2000 in the next gear, any higher revs requires more gas pedal to increase revs, max torque is 4200rpm

typical 1500 - 2000 upshift

really slow acceleration in light traffice 1000-1200 in each gear with light throttle

10 degree hill in 5th at 30mph is 1550rpm and is about as steep as that gear can handle with a light load in the xB - any extra weight or a full gas tank and I loose speed and downshift to 4th or 3rd

Idle in first gear is 650-700rpm = 3 mph

JanGeo said:

"Should be an adjustment for those shift points on that Ford Truck automatic."

I found diesel programmers that are set up for efficiency. Most just dump more fuel into the truck at low revs, and advance the injection. The engines make more black smoke after these mods. One (Edge Performance) also claims to let you alter the shift points (at WOT) and hydraulic oil (clutch) pressure without touching the engine programming.

I haven't parted with any cash for a programmer chip because I have a 100k mile warranty. Ford gave out an exteneded warranty because the 6.0 diesel engine has a ton of problems. I know this to be true. I've already had my EGR and EBV replaced under warranty, and I'm waiting for the next repair. At 37k miles now, I have 73k miles to go before I consider any aftermarket part.

In addition, at my last inspection, the dealer told me that my left ball joints were about to go. The truck passed anyway without changing the ball joints. This truck has seen very light duty most of the time, although it is a (non-commercial) plow truck. You'd think Ford would step up and replace ball joints only 1000 miles out of warranty. But no.

Ford could step up to the plate and reprogram my transmission, but I doubt it. I've written to Ford and had it to the dealer on several occasions about the mileage and they say 15 mpg city and 20 highway is better than most people get.

I'm going back to GM trucks as soon as I can.

varoooooommmm, clunk/clunk, varoooooommmmm, clunk/clunk, varooooooommmmm, clunk/clunk, and so on. :)

ROFL

I can't play this game, because I have no tach. Well, I have the ScanGauge, but waching a digital/numerical tach is silly.

Neither can I...I have no tach, not even a "silly" digital one. :( I need to find a Metro LSI cluster. They had tachs.

Mwahaha, my new tach is up and running and I very much like it.

'Nuff said.

i shift when it hits the rev limiter... dosnt everyone???

all joking aside

when im being good (accelerating to 90 - 120kph)

idles at 650
into 2nd at 1400
into 3rd at 1800
into 4th at 2300
into 5th at 2500

in the city with traffic behind me (accelerating to 60 - 70kph)

idles at 650
into 2nd at 2800
into 3rd at 3000
into 4th at 2500
into 5th at 2000

1st gear
6100 rpm 44mph

2nd gear
6100 rpm 74mph

3rd gear
6100 rpm 125mph

4th gear
umm a lot

compaq, you dont make any sense. read what this thread is about, then edit your post.

It's about shifting a manual. i was being sarcastic. i can make my auto shift at any rpm I want, it just depends how much I press the gas pedal.

Yes, the point of the thread is where you actually make it shift. Any of us can shift wherever we want.

Can you elaborate a little on that. I would love to know how to make my auto shift 5 MPH sooner.:)

When I talked to Miro at Synlube he said a lot of the diesels are built in Mexico rather poorly and they blow up or fail and make a lot of noise when running from poor machining tolerances. Full throttle is injecting too much fuel - I see it here all the time and there is no need for it - back off a little - acetone is supposed to reduce the soot and black smoke - 2 oz per 10 gallons.

1st gear is 1600rpm
2nd gear is 1600rpm
3rd gear is 1600rpm

If people are really on my *** then

1st gear 1750rpm
2nd gear 1700rpm
3rd gear 1750rpm

If I'm good

1st-2500
2nd-2200
3rd-2000
4th-1800


if I mash the pedal

1st- 6500
2nd- 6500
3rd- 5500
4th- 5200

typical of an auto it won't go to 6800 redline. I will say I love the exhuast note right around 4800-5000. Doesn't sound like any other honda I've driven, sort of a muffled cross between a 350z and a IS300. weird...

If I mash the pedal it won't hit redline either. The ecu makes sure you don't get all the available power. If you want all the power you got to do the shifting yourself. Put it into 1. Mash the gas, move the lever into 2 at 6800rpm. Keep it going then at 6800rpm again move the lever into 3 or 3D or whatever you have and so on. This method cut my 1/4 mile time by .3 seconds which is a lot. I wouldn't advice downshifting your auto unless it says it in the manual. Your car manual has all this information.

another reason why a clutch owns you.

when you shift yourself isnt there a delay?

there is only a delay when the car shifts itself, when you shift it yourself you're in full control. Also if you don't shift it before redline you're going to get a fuel cut just like a manual car would

I was talking to someone last night about his auto to manual on his neon, went from 17.6 to 15.5 at the quarter mile...

yea apparently having shorter and more gears helps acceleration and fuel economy:p;):rolleyes::eek::cool::D im out of emoticons that might fit.:rolleyes:

:p always works for every situation for me. *shrugzilla* Hope I can get the MID calibrated soon to make sure it's reading properly and all that, cuz I wanna know my mileage and start working. Looks like it'll be a battle.

At least you won't be fighting this battle alone. Have you tried the kill switch and bump starting yet?

Not kill switch but I did a bit of bump starting, waiting for a time with less traffic so I can feel it out more, but it's pretty seemless.

I dont have a tach...am driving a 89 toy camry 5spd, and shift at 12, 23, 35, 43. Of course the speeds are lower at lighter loads, and higher at higher loads.

Lately I have been paying more attention to my shift points than ever. One thing I have done is set my shift light to 3000rpms, and then just shift when it comes on, that way I don't have to stare at the tach the whole time.

I find if I shift earlier than 3000 I don't have enough acceleration to keep up with traffic some times. It seems that I frustrate other drivers around me if I accelerate any slower than that.

I am going to start recording some data as I try out different shift points via changing when my shift light comes on.

To those of you who don't have tachs. I bought this one for $25 off eBay and it works great. Not too large, not too flashy, and has a built in shift light that is easily adjustable. I would definately recomend getting one. I like to always know what RPM I am at.

https://www.fuelly.com/attachments/fo...183fa673ad.jpg

P.S. When I autocross I set the shift light to 7300rpms and even then I hit the rev limiter from time to time. :o

2nd @ 2200
3rd @ 2000
4th @ 2000
5th @ 1800

2nd - 3000 i skip 3rd and 4th but i rev to 2500 (roughly 25mph) and shift to 5th.

that is if i am driving to work, or to the store. if i am actually trying to get somewhere:

2nd - 2500
3rd - 2000
4th - 1800
5th - 1500

Most of the time:
1 -> 2 @ 2900
2 -> 3 @ 2900
3 -> 4 @ 2200

This is normal city driving with the automatic. Usually, it'll shift immediately before the 3k mark and fall to just above 2k but by the time I hit overdrive I'm pretty much at 45 and need to let off. This was before the mechanics touched my car and fubared my cam timing. Now I have to be hard on it til it goes back in.

When I'm hard on it I'm limited by fuel cut at 6650 so I have it shift about 50 rpm before that mark.

I don't have a tach in my '88 Escort 1.9L but I normally shift 1-2 at 10-15 MPH, 2-3 at 20-25 MPH, 3-4 at 30-40 MPH. I guess this to be right around 2000 RPM.

In my '97 Escort wagon 2.0L I usually shift between 1750-2250 RPM. This is according to the scan gauge 2.

1 -> 2: 5 mph = 1150 -> 570 rpm (or sooner. On a downhill, i start in 2nd. 1st kills mpg)
2 -> 3: 10 mph = 1150 -> 770 rpm
3 -> 4: 20 mph = 1530 -> 1150 rpm
4 -> 5: 30 mph = 1725 -> 1380 rpm

If I'm in a hurry, I'll raise 2-3, 3-4, and 4-5 by about 5 mph. Beyond that, and it doesn't really go faster, it just uses more gas.

Basically, as soon as the next gear rpm is enough to generate forward motion, I'm there. Anything higher is wasteful.

Nice old thread bump. :)

My pattern is pretty similar to Pale's. My gears have closer ratios. Here's an approximation for level land, using all gears:

1 -> 2: Probably under 5 mph = 1150 -> 750 rpm
2 -> 3: 15 mph = 1300 -> 950 rpm
3 -> 4: 20 mph = 1300 -> 1100 rpm
4 -> 5: 26 mph = 1350 -> 1100 rpm

The last couple days I've been re-experimenting with a skip-shift pattern:
1 -> 2: Probably under 5 mph = 1150 -> 750 rpm
2 -> 4: 20 mph = 2000 -> 1100 rpm
4 -> 5: 30 mph = 1350 -> 1100 rpm

Speeds are increased by ~150 rpm when carrying my wife.

i shift every 10 mph increase in speed if im just slowly accelerating like thru town.

if i need to get a tad faster its every 2k-2.5K

if i really need to get going (ie interstate on ramps) i will floor it till about 3-3.5K usually gets up in the 60-70 mph range so i merge easily.

can be in 5th all the way down to 35 :P will not accelerate but will keep a constant speed without lugging on flat roads.

Unfortunately I have to drive an automatic now incase my girlfriend she ever has car troubles and needs to drive my car. It's a 92 Saturn SL1, I usually can get it to shift into the next gear around 2000 rpm by feathering the throttle. 40 mph = ~1490 4th gear (top) with the TC locked up (I think).

Instead of feathering the gas pedal for slow acceleration, have you tried accelerating how you want and then lifting off the pedal to induce a shift, then easing back onto the pedal again?