You definately want to be circulating the water all the time as the hot spots are near the exhost valves and on big V engines the intake manifolds are usually heated with water as well. Have the fan off should not be a problem as the heater will probably dissapate enough of the heat on a cold day - make sure you turn it to outside "cold" air for max cooling. Bigger engines generate a lot more heat so cooling may become an issue if it is not really cold outside. Only really good way to tell is to try it where you can stop if it overheats or at least coast at idle to allow it to cool down - less throttle makes a lot less heat. When I ran my full grill block I didn't have a problem until I got going over 40mph then the bigger gas consumption kicks in and the heat goes up.
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Couple of OEM e-pump efficiency examples, FYI:
Land Rover Concept Showcases Hybrid System and Other Technologies for 30% Reduction in Fuel Consumption https://www.greencarcongress.com/2006...over_conc.html Quote:
And a BMW doing the same thing... https://www.greencarcongress.com/2006...troduces_.html Quote:
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The e-pump would be great but the only problem I see is cost. Most of the after market ones I've seen have a life cycle of 2000-2500 hours at a cost of $250-600, and thats with a self install, so the 12,000 a year driver would be replacing them every 5 years.
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DIY, man!
Scrounge a 12v rad fan motor, make a clamp, and either add a pulley or do direct drive (if the motor speed is compatible with the needed pump speed). That's what I'm thinking anyway. |
Quote:
https://www.dccontrol.com/ Using a sensor you jam into the radiator it varies the voltage sent to fan so you are not either on full low or full high but at the right speed for a given temp. I have one waiting to be installed on the Jeep with a fan out of a Taurus, same principle should work for the water pump. |
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