list of gas saving tips from best to worst
 

Reposting and adding to what I put in cleanmpg.

So far, I have gathered that this is what you should do to save gas, in order from the quickest, easiest, and cheapest ideas, to the more expensive, inconvenient, uncomfortable, dubious, and/or difficult ones.

1. inflate tires (to at least the maximum recommended on the tire walls)
2. throw out extra weight: clean out the beer (root beer of course, officer) cans and bottles, etc
3. change your driving habits: drive slower, accelerate more slowly, try to do acceleration on downhill slopes and avoid accelerating on uphill, coast up to stop lights, shut engine off when stopped.
4. change to lighter weight oil
5. install a gas mileage indicator (to help with #3)
6. Maintenance: Keep engine tuned. pay special attention to the O2 sensors

Those are the easiest and best. From here on it gets worse with respect to sacrifices, significant expenses, dubious benefits, or decreased safety.

7. Limit power use: no A/C, no loud radio, drive in daytime so won't have to use headlights. change incandescent bulbs to LEDs.
8. upgrade to low rolling resistance tires.
9. More radical changes in driving technique: Shut engine off while coasting (not always legal, is that?) and master technique of restarting engine with clutch rather than starter, make high G turns rather than touch those brakes,
10. more serious weight reduction: dump the spare tire and jack and carry a cell phone and an emergency number instead, trade out steel rims for lightweight aluminum, replace steel hood and fenders with carbon fiber (if available for your vehicle), maybe trade out glass side and rear windows for some sort of plastic, toss out the passenger and back seats
11. trade up to a more efficient car (if what you have is nothing special)
12. aftermarket engine upgrades: headers instead of stock exhaust manifold, camshafts specially tuned for FE . Hotter thermostat, electric fan for radiator (well, most cars do that nowadays), chips.
13. do it yourself aerodynamics: make skirts for the wheel wells, spoilers, build up back so it's more like a teardrop shape, do something about the side mirrors, and do what you can to smooth the underside.
14. add solar cells to lighten the load on the alternator.
15. Or dump the alternator and change to a deep cycle battery, and get a charger. recharge often.

And now, to boldly go where no one has gone before. Or very few have gone, because it's so uncertain and heart stoppingly expensive.

16. Radical body: Acquire a body made entirely from lightweight material, be that aluminum, magnesium, or other alloys, or composites. How one keeps it street legal, I don't know.
17. Radical engine work: make something that can burn methanol, and dispense with the radiator and water pump (Scientific American article from some 10 years ago), go with a dry sump (Hey Smokey column in Motor Trend from years ago), and where oh where is the 42V standard will all the cool gas saving features like electrically actuated valves with whatever timing was desired and no losses from camshafts, a single winding for both alternator and starter integrated with the flywheel and the wonderful ability to instantly start, etc. Still all ICE tho.


No doubt I missed plenty of ideas. And please discuss the ordering. I'd like to see something like the above list somewhere, perhaps as a FAQ. Or is there already such a list?

:eek: Would that honestly work??? What a brilliant idea!

:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

I like them all...
 

Welcome to GasSavers! :)

Actually I like them all! I think vehicle modification can be a great supplement to driving style. I wouldn't be able to get the most out of my old Integra without tweaking the vehicle to 21st-Century efficiency changes.

I personally have added:

• Hotter Thermostat (170F=Stock; added 192F)
• OEM Engine-Block Heater
• Low-Rolling Resistance Tires
• Modified Engine Air Intake for Temps (to be further tweaked)
• ScanGauge-I
• Tire Over-Inflation
• Cruise-Control Throttle Limiting System (CCTLS)
• Exhaust manifold heat shield delete
• Seafoam Cleanse followed by a PCV Catch Bottle
• Loosened the Auto-Trans Throttle Linkage

The above mods and driving style have helped me go from 26mpg when I first started to what you see below.

The car is always a work-in-progress but so is the driver :rolleyes:

There's a "Busted and Confirmed" mods list that discusses some of these ideas.

Feel free to post in the "Introduce Yourself" post and tell us about your cool collections of automobiles :thumbup:

Again Welcome! ...and feel free to ask us any questions you may have -- we're here to help.

RH77

The best tip is to change bad(or aggressive) driving habits.

Also, cutting back on very short trips (extra good in cold weather).

great thread, and great first post. I'm going to make this thread a sticky.

No mention of grill blocking??

Funny but eCycle has had the ISA ready to go for some time now - Integrated Starter Alternator = ISA.

From my experience, so far, I'd definitely add grill blocking to your list. I'd rank it as up their around number 4, as far as benefit and the cost is pretty much nothing. I've done a crude grill block, with some noticable benefit and I'm in the process of trying a little more aerodynamic shaped grill block. When I have some results which I can somewhat quantify, I will post that information, but right now all I can report is that it does make a much more noticable improvement than I would have anticipated.

Another change, which I have not yet imlemented, although I have acquired some of the necessary parts, is to make a transmission/gear change, to allow the engine to run at a lower rpm. In examples taken from members of gassavers, this change has added considerably to the mileage capabilities of both Honda Civics and Geo Metros. I'd rank it more around 8-10, primarily because it requires time, effort and generally some portion of cash expense, to accomplish.

more ideas
 

Don't drive when you can walk or bike is a great one. On a similar note, spend a bit of time with maps working out the most FE routes. I image they'd almost always be the shortest routes.

Picking good parking spots definitely belongs with better driving habits. When a store I want to visit is on the left side of the street, I sometimes park on the right and walk across.

I forgot "drafting". Should add "Tailgate big trucks when possible" to #9.

Grill blocking: Sounds fairly easy. I don't entirely understand it yet. This is not blocking off air to the radiator or air intake, this is only stopping air from blowing into the engine compartment from around the sides of the radiator, right? And it is very effective, is it? Anyway, grill blocking sounds a lot easier than other aerodynamic mods, so ought to put that in, let's see... between 6 and 7? Or, as suggested, even better than #4 changing to lighter oil.

Golf ball style dimples: The dimples on golf balls reduce drag. I've wondered for a long time whether that would work on cars, and envisioned having the entire surface covered with little dimples just like on golf balls. A few years ago Corbin Motors produced the "Sparrow", a 3 wheel electric car. (One was used in Austin Powers 2 or 3.) I managed to visit and take one for a short test drive, when they were still in biz. I noticed that the body panels at the rear of the Sparrow had golf ball like dimples. Those dimples were much larger, perhaps about 3 or 4 cm across, and were only at the trailing edges.

How about lobby for better roads? Some ideas: Shorter roads of course. Straighten out roads, intersections should be raised (except in icy climates maybe?), avoid excessive stoplighting and stop signs, improve timing of lights. And, FREE ALL TOLL ROADS! Tack on another few cents to the gas tax. Don't make people stop to toss a few quarters into a bin or hand bills to a toll collector, and then wait around, engine idling, while the bin figures out if you put in enough money or the operator fumbles with your change.

Fill tires with pure nitrogen or helium. I left that one out because I think it would be of nearly no help to FE. Saves, what, maybe 1 pound of weight? I read that pure nitrogen is good for other reasons-- less corrosive, so rims and tires will last a bit longer, doesn't leak out as readily, and less variation in pressure from temperature changes.

Good ideas
 

These are some good ideas, but this one I find a bit dangerous, and road-rage envoking. I consider this an 'extreme driving techinque' that I refuse to do, personally. A driver may do it with the full understanding of the risks, but it's an adjunct that I would rather omit.

(I have to give this lecture): I used to be a Paramedic in a district along I-70 in Ohio. Our coverage area was primarily rural with the exception of the Interstate and some small towns. Long story short, it turns out that the "bumper" bar on the rear trailer of semis is very weak, and proved to collapse under most moderate-to-heavy impacts. I feel an explanation isn't necessary to describe what happens when that bar enters the cabin of a car at neck-level...I can attest that it isn't pretty, and rarely survivable.

Some like to side-draft, but having personally known many truckers, that can really get them P.O.'d as the ideal draft space is within an "escape zone" if an emergency maneuver is needed. Also if it's on a 4-lane road, other drivers don't appreciate the blockage. I try to prevent road rage as it can be dangerous (had an angry driver pull a knife on my wife and me once, for no good reason). People are capable of much more, and its on the rise. I take an "Efficiency with Diplomacy" approach to GasSaving. That's just me, and individual results may vary :)

I prefer the Approach and CODFISH method of draft. Approach a semi with the 2-second safe following distance, pop it in Neutral and cut the engine (CODFISH = Coast On Demand / Forced Ignition SHutdown) or "FAS" in some circles. The wake should provide a longer Glide distance (of Pulse and Glide).

Grille block achieves 2 objectives: trapping heat into the engine compartment (which helps especially in the Winter to get the engine into closed loop sooner) and improved Aerodynamics. Those here who have tested this technique have closely watched their operating temps. Some designs loose the heat effectively, and others tend to overheat. Testing on each model is required to see how much air is required to get to the radiator -- it's a bit of a compromise :rolleyes:

Keep the great ideas coming!

RH77

Grill Blocking, GP style, consists of entirely, totally having blocked off all possible openings into the radiator. Initially I used packaging tape. Now I have a cardboard ensemblage, which covers the front, from the top of the radiator to under the bumper, from left side to right side.

I did have to put in a 1 inch by 2 inch opening, because my temperature started going up rather quickly, suggesting that I had managed to block it rather effectively. I probably should add one more opening, for the time being. However, I use the heater and fan, to cover any marginal cooling issues, at the moment.

I've really dragged my feet on doing the radiator block, but having done it, for this time of year, I am really amazed that I have been able to get by with it blocked as much as I have. I am also pretty amazed at how much of a improvement it seems to have been.

Drafting trucks is just not something that I am willing to do. My feeling is that if I can't see what's coming down the road, then I am putting my safety in jeaprody, let alone that of everyone else driving down the road. IMO, it is just not worth the risk.

I'm going to have to try grill blocking to get more heat in my xB - can't seem to get enough heat in the cabin in these temps. If the engine temp get high enough the fan will kick in and circulate air around the radiator to cool it since my grill is a lot further forward of the radiator. Where I have been driving the traffic is so heavy around trucks I am the only one keeping a halfway decent distance behind them when I draft. And I make sure I keep an eye on what is up ahead and behind in the other lanes to allow them to move where they want to flashing the brights when it is clear for them to pull in front of me if that is where they are signaling.

I'd agree with the previous posters: avoid driving as #1, driving techniques as #2. Also driving techniques that need the most attention are the most broken types: left-foot breaking, or the on-off gas pedal. Fixing one of those probably doubles your mileage overnight.

I have read somewhere else about closing all windows while driving on a highway. I think this may reduce wind resistance at high speed. However, some fuel economy advice givers say the difference this measure can make is small. So it is up to you to consider whether to add it to your list:).

swng -

I used to have the windows open all the time, but now I have them open about 1 inch max when I am on the freeway. I have wind/rain deflectors on my front windows to cover that 1 inch opening. I originally got the deflectors because the rain would get into my Saturn when the window was open "just a crack", but I like to think they help me to ventilate without sacrificing MPG.

At highway speeds, every little bit helps for the purpose of reducing aerodynamic friction in order to increase coasting. The difference is small, but it is easy to do, and it can be a behavior you add later on after you have exhausted the "big MPG" gain strategies.

It is also strategic. Driving with the windows open is better for MPG than running the AC. But maybe not better on the mileage of your lungs in the big city, ;) .

Yes, at street speeds, closing the windows doesn't help much.

CarloSW2

Thanks a lot for sharing your insight/experience cfg83:)! I now have more reasons to think that closing the windows should help a little on highways.
Also, I believe that using window shades to prevent the sun from heating up the car too much whilst it is parked in open space in summer may help a little too because of the resulting reduction in the A/C's workload when the car is restarted later.
I will also try to park indoor or under the sun as far as possible in winter to reduce loss of heat if I know I will have to drive again soon.

It is also strategic. Driving with the windows open is better for MPG than running the AC. .... Yes, at street speeds, closing the windows doesn't help much.

CarloSW2[/QUOTE]

I thought that windows add drag which get worse at higher speeds and eventually sucks up just as much mpg as an AC once you hit highway speeds. Because of this I would SLIGHTLY use the AC (High fan speed, lower ac temp) instead of windows once I hit the highway. Any insight from anyone here. Im a MAJOR newbie, this is my first day here.

i only crack mine about an inch. my front drivers and my back right. i can tell the differance at 60mph in the drag so i figure i should keep them down as little as possible. i just have a bottle of ice water and its amazing what it can do to keep you cool whyle driveing.

In no particular order, things I'm gonna do:

Remove floor matts - I still have the mud matts from winter :eek:
Remove trunk tray

M

jacking your tire pressure up to high is a bad idea in the name of safety. you can significantly reduce your contact patch. save a mpg, but hey your tires are the only thing that touches the road. also i bet the cost of replacing those tires so much sooner than you normally would would offset any gas savings you'd achieve.

another way to save gas, in winter at least, is to not idle in the driveway forever. warm it up for 30 seconds, then drive very gently until the car is warm. cars like mine especially dump alot of fuel when the engine is cold, so if you're on the throttle like in normal driving you are using alot of fuel.

one more, don't use ethanol'd fuel. i have personally recorded highway mileage losses of nearly 2mpg in two different cars on long trips while using 10% ethanol gas.

gas mileage indicator
 

can you these for any make/model?
i have a 97 ford taurus.
is it inaccurate to drive until youre on empty, refill completely, reset the trip odometer and divide the numbers?
i hope so, because i'm only getting about 18/mpg if not!

The scanguage II will work with your car. Your method isn't innacurate, but the scanguage helps you learn better how to drive. I would say to get one!

You've got it right, Crystal. When you fill up, divide the number of miles since the last fill by the gallons you just put in. It can vary up and down a little depending exactly how full you get it each time, but it's the method most people still use.

at least 1/2 to 2/3 of my savings came from the hot air intake. the only others that had any effect at all were adding the scangage which allowed me to uptimize driving technique, and the over inflated tires. normal tuneup maint should be a given if you want decent fuel economy.

I have a 1997 Mercury Sable (very similar car) and I get 18-20mpg city and 22-23mpg highway so...you're not wrong.

I recommend:

Amsoil Series2000 synthetic motor oil ($7/quart, one oil change per YEAR. Order online.)
Full tranny flush (learn how to disconnect the hoses to flush all 13 quarts instead of just 5)


PCV valve ($5), fuel filter ($7), spark plugs ($12 for six), air filter ($20).

The latter items are cheap enough that you can change them frequently (every year or so). PCV, fuel filter, and air filter are easy to change in 5mins with no tools. Spark plugs (aka a "tune up") is a bit more work, but can be done in ~1hour.

Also, a couple tanks of premium gas will clean out the engine.

Variance
 

I've noticed quite a bit of variance in the FE of last generation Taurus/Sables with the 3.0L (Vulcan) engine.

I've rented over the years probably 30+ different ones, and they all varied widely in their FE. The low end was 18 mpg with 90% highway, and as high as 24-25 mpg under similar conditions. The Duratec (DOHC) 3.0L was a bit more consistently around 22-23 mpg, but rare in rental row. It's the only vehicle I've rented with such a variance -- not sure why.

RH77

I'm using these mods to manage 36 mpg mixed with a car EPA rated at 26 mpg mixed (revised)...a 38% gain. '83 Tercel 4WD Wagon.

* advanced ignition (road timed to just ping a lower rpms)

* hot air (using heat stove around manifold)

* grill blocking (except radiator)

* adjustable cooling fan switch (don't want it to run)

* a Condensator

* indexed V-power plugs

* EFIE

* manual choke

* O2 sensor wrapped in alum foil

* neo 40 magnet on gas line

* Valvoline Synpower oil additive in engine

* moly additive in manual transaxle

* tires at sidewall max

* glasspack


Want to test:

* 195F thermostat

* vortex generators or strakes

* lowered air dam

* acetone/xylol/GP7

What about
 

What about lowering your vehicle with springs?

One tip that hasn't seemed to have been mentioned yet is:

• Plan your trip in it's entirety before you even get in the car.

You can use the web to not only find street addresses of your destination but some destinations have their own websites to include pictures of what the destination looks like. Using the street address that you researched, use an online driving directions finder website.

It's one thing if you have to detour for traffic reasons, it's another to be lost and driving around wasting gas, even driving lost fuel efficiently.

How about opting to work night shift? The traffic is less busy at night. The temperature will be lower at night too:).

Change of Habit: Idle as Least as Possible
 

1. Find the First Available Parking Spot. Parking 50 yards closer by circling the lot numerous times really doesnt make sense. We can all use the exercise!

2. I park my car on the street when I get home. I coast with my engine off with perfect timing up until it's final parking location. No more driveway parking since I would have to keep my engine on to turn into the driveway and park the car with greater precision.

3. No More Fast Food Drive Thrus.

4. I drive the car immediately upon turning on the car. I no longer warm up the car. I no longer cool the car with the aircondition or adjust windows during idle. I make sure my seatbelt is fastened before turning on the car. I make sure my portable GPS and Scan Gauge are connected before turning on the car. I make sure my sunglasses are on before turning on the car.

All these things are a little anal but this is the only message board that would understand where im coming from!

Keep your car's paint polished and waxed. A slippery surface will increase aerodynamic efficency.

coasting in neutral
 

I was wondering what people think about coasting in neutral.
Generally, I accelerate upto the speed limit, then put the transmisiion in neutral. I do this in neighborhood driving. With tires inflated to maximum recommended, this allows me to coast for quite a distance before the vehicle slows down enough causing me to put it back in drive. This works well if I am nearing a stop sign. My question is. Could this be harmfull for the vehicles transmission? The tranny seems to shift smoothly from driving to coasting and back.
I have not done this enough to record any possible fuel savings. Mainly due to fears I may be hurting the tranny.

I work the night shift. There is less traffic. The temperature is lower.

It is absolutely not worth it.

Whether it is worth it depends on one's personal preference. I, for instance, like working nights because I HATE alarm clocks.

anyone have any knowledge/experience of Ethos FR? see https://www.4planetearth.net

go to the "search the forums" section and enter it as the key word. there are several discussions on this product.

Tire pressure: safety and wear.

https://www.officer.com/article/artic...on=19&id=27281

This answers many of the questions on those concerns.

I'm running 50 psi air my 44 psi tires in a 1989 car with 32 psi door stickers. ymmv.

You will get better fuel economy with your foot off the gas and coasting, the engine goes into a lean burn type mode.

When the engine is idling you are using more fuel.