https://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/I...D:100000233647

These work well...you lose the space between one coil...1"?.....$40 total cost.

Really good stuff, guys.

I have tried some of Phil Knox' stuff on my F-350 and it has resulted in substantial improvement.

Until I get some pix up on this site check out https://www.fokisd.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=508

for pictures of my truck. so far, just rough-and-ready engineering prototypes but I hope to refine things this next year.

to do:

1. Get a junkyard bed and modify it into a streamlined enclosed bed. Think a cross between a pickup and a 1964 Shelby daytona coupe.
2. Improve the looks of my rugged air dam. People can't get by the looks but it works like a champ. I am still getting 25+ MPG in late November. again, I'll raid a junkyard for a bumper and get a more rounded plan view.
3. Block off the grill by 80-90%.
4. Wheel skirts fore and aft. Mooneyes.

Way out:
Custom made 2.35:1 rear axle.

I have a quick question: do the 'aerodynamic' aftermarket body kits actually reduce drag, or just weight? I am pondering a body kit to reduce weight, but the front grill on all of them seems to have very poor aerodynamics. Maybe it's just me.

I don't think any aftermarket body kit will reduce weight or decrease drag. They're just made for looks. I haven't seen any specifically marketed as aerodynamic kits though. OEM kits would be worth looking at though.

Daox, I partially disagree. I think there are some aftermarket body kit components out there that could be beneficial. Some front spoilers & valences aren't overly aggresive and are capable of efficiently redirecting air. The same could be said for some sideskirt designs. Where most kits go wrong is the rear valences & spoilers/wings...most of them are nothing more drag generators or inefficient/non-functional difusers. Also, many European kit mfgrs put there products through German TUV testing standards. Their components are actually wind tunnel tested to eliminate any detrimental aero-effects.

A big, big +1 to these -- I used 'em on my old Dodge Daytona. Looked much sportier, car was much more fun to drive, and I picked up some noticeable FE gains on the highway. Here's the how-to I followed:

https://www.allpar.com/eek/coils.html

Took it in for a $70 front-end alignment afterwards, just to make sure.

I was just about to order those, since a set of lowering springs are $200+ from JC Whitney. Then I read Xfi's build thread on the UNnamed Wagon, and saw his new springs from eBay. Doh! I'm a long-time eBayer; Why didn't I think of looking there? I can get a set of adjustable springs for my car for < $100 (can you say ABA testing?). I wish spring would hurry up and get here, so I can work on the car in comfort again (no pun intended :D )

I've used the clamps before for lowering and they work reasonably well. So long as they are installed balanced from side to side on the springs, there's little if any lasting affect on the spring if you later decide to remove them. They are certainly easier to install than a new set of springs on most cars.